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How to fit your 1/32 scale FLY Porsche 917 body on the
chassis (also valid for many other FLY, Ninco, Scalextric...1/32 scale slot cars)

The FLY Porsche 917 are beautiful cars and a perfect subject for a TSRF conversion for the more demanding hobbyists. This is how to make this happen.

1/ Once you have chosen your subject, remove the 5 screws retaining the body to the original chassis. Set the chassis aside. Using a Dremel disk cut off the rear and side body-mounting posts on the body. Keep at least one of them for later use.



To clear the chassis, it is necessary to cut off the rear and side body mounts on the body. A simple cut with a Dremel disk takes care of this matter. Remove all debris and burrs, you don't want them to cause problems later.

2/ Remove the cockpit by gently lifting it with a wide flat blade such as that of a flat screwdriver. Now you will need to file or grind a bit over 1/16" from under the cockpit area. A Dremel disk sander with rough paper or a rough large flat file is used for this. Proceed slowly and gently. You will also need to make a "flat" under the driver's legs and cut off the shoes to clear the front axle. Two notches are then cut with a square file to clear the two chassis hooks interfering with the cockpit.



The underneath of the cockpit needs to be shaved to remove any interference with the chassis pan. Not the notches for the chassis hooks. Other than the black body parts inside the top of the rear fenders (see further below), there were no other clearance issues.

3/ Now for the chassis: assemble the chassis as per assembly instructions, using the shortest wheelbase on both chassis and front axle. The plastic side body mounts are tough to use for this body because the sides are curved. So I chose to use the pin-tubing supplied in the kit. Shorten the two pieces of tubing to fit inside the body and chamfer their ends. Fit the tubing with the plastic retainers INSIDE the body mounts. Try the chassis on the body and once the steel pan is totally flush with the bottom of the body, make sure that nothing interferes with the black plastic chassis, lifting it. It must be totally flush and free to move side to side and up and down.



This handy-dandy E-clip tool from Rotor Clip was modified for use on the TSRF front wheels.



The modification consists in turning the tool's head 90 degrees. It makes E-clips installation a breeze. We hope to offer a TSRF specific tool in the near future.



Cut off the accessory bracket at the rear of the chassis and file flush and clean. You will need the clearance for the cosmetic accessories.



Position the body on top of the chassis so that the front wheels are in the center of the wheel wells. This will leave about 1mm between the front of the steel pan and the body, and it will act as a serious bumper in case of severe impact. Once you are sure of correct alignment, tape the body to the chassis with Scotch Magic tape.



Using the TSRF Body-Mounting Tool and an X-Acto knife handle fitted with a # 73 drill, gently mark and drill the front mounting pin hole. Install the first mounting pin. Repeat the operation for the rear mounting hole. Go to the other side and make sure that the body is still perfectly straight on top of the frame and repeat the operation. You are done.



You will note that due to the slightly increased wheelbase, the rear tires may interfere slightly with the black bits under the rear fenders. These pop right out and will need to be slightly altered on their front for clearing the tires.

After fitting the body, the chassis steel pan sides were cut to fit the narrower body of the Porsche. It is not necessary for good operation but certainly looks nicer on the finished car. I used a nibbler from Micro-Mark and finished with a file. Note the position of the pin-tubing plastic stops.



The near-finished product next to the original chassis: your new super-smooth rocket is almost ready.



You will need to alter the cosmetic bits: the spare wheel will be sliced to clear the chassis and the forward tubing on the space frame will need to be cut off or its angle changed. You will need to glue one of the previously cut-off mounting posts to hold the spare wheel, but it will be placed on the back of the wheel instead of its front as originally installed. The gearbox details can be re-attached to the tubular armature using Ambroid Pro-Weld glue.



Last, you may want to fit some wheel inserts and paint them black. You can machine them from the original FLY wheels and push them inside the TSRF Nylon wheels. We will offer Porsche 908-917 inserts soon. The finished product will be 20-30% faster than the original FLY car while being much smoother and easier to control.



Racing the FLY-
Porsche 917 racing car

Magnet racing: Use one or two (but never three) traction magnets in the pockets below the motor box. You should need no other alterations. If in intense racing with super-lightweight machines, you can transform the steel pan into Swiss cheese or remove most of it with a Dremel disk and files. After-market tires such as Indy-Grips or Ortmann also will improve the consistency of the car.

No-magnet racing:
You may add as much as 50 grams of thin sheet lead on the front of the car as well as on the sides of the steel pan until happy with the car's balance.

Now go racing, and have fun!
 
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