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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Firstly, thanx to all for the feedback and compliments.

As I have learned so much on this forum, I think it is high time for me to plough something back, although very small.

I like to share the designs, all I ask is that if you add additional livery designs of your own, is that you share it as well with the members!

Thanx to Geezer for his banners that I have used/abused some of.


Following posts of how I made the perch:

The first to notice is that the cut outs were designed to be stuck on 1mm cardboard. (I think it is about 300g/mm2)

I have used A4 size label paper (self adhesive) to print the cut outs on. Normal or better quallity paper ca also be used, then stuck on the cardboard.

The next to notice is that I have made the base out of balsa wood, using a a piece of 36" x 1/2" x 1/4", cut into 70 mm lengths. Pictures to follow.

The pillars were made of 2mm dia kebab sticks.

I have uploaded the cut out files to Dropbox. the pdf files are huge, I do not know how to get them smaller" Help please?

I suggest that you download the Powerpoint (pptx file) slides, and print them. It will then also allow you to change and make your own preffered livery as well as change the size of the perch.

The link to the pptx file is here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61761872/Pitwall%20ver2.pptx

The link to the plan - front and side view - is : http://dl.dropbox.com/u/61761872/front%20%...side%20view.pdf

I'll post the links to the rest of pdfs a little later.

the detail steps - picture intensive - to follow.....

Enjoy!
TK
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First step - constructing the base:

As mentioned; I have used balsa wood, 36" x 1/2" x 1/4" cut to 70 mm lengths with a sharp utility knife.

The rest of the dimensions will be in mm. (How did they get a man on the moon by using inches, pounds and feet?)


Cut the step in the one piece, 14mm wide in the middle, as well as notches at the ends, 2mm x 2mm.

The notches in the back upright piece is for wires to run through if you are going to use the LED monitor backlight.



Glue together:



Cut the kebab sticks in 61mm lenghts, and glue into the nothces:



After glue has set, spray or paint the pillars colour of choice (metallic silver in this case):



While waiting for the paint to dry, make up the LEDs.....
 

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Making the LEDs:

There are many a post on how to and select LEDs etc etc, but I'll input my 2 cents as well:

I use a simple method on doing the LED thing; Ohm's law states V=IR, thus

I am using a 12V power supply, the LED I am using can handle a max current of 25mA:

R=V/I = 12V / 0.025 A = 480 ohm = a resistor of 470 ohm.

I always remember the LED's cathode (negative) and Anode (positive) as follows:

Short Fat Cat scratches, thus not nice, thus negative. The shorter leg of the LED is negative (inside the LED the fatter part is also the cathode).



I always solder the resistor to the positive leg (anode) of the LED, (hoping to limit the current before it goes through the LED
)

When soldering these thin wires together, I have found that wounding one around the other gives a sure joint:





Then solder the wires ....



Using heat shrink to make sure no shorts will occur:



The LED is no ready for later use...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Let us do the floor of the perch:

Cut out the step and the floor from the template - I used a sharp utility knife and a metal ruler.



stick on the step... (remember I'm using label paper which is self adhesive)



Then the floor - notice the flaps cut out for the side of the step



Stick down the floor and fold and stick the front part of the floor first folding back the triangular wings



Then fold and stick the side parts.



Floor done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Back wall with window and side panels:

Stick the templates to 1mm thick cardboard and cut out:



Cut a piece of suitable plastic for the window (I used a plastic envelope used for small sized CDs)



and stick it to the backside of the back wall



Done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Making the base for the montors and keyboard:

Use the sheet with the many screens and keybords on it.



Stick the screens, downlight slots and keybords onto 1mm cardboard and cut out.

Then cut the slots of the narrow downlights, cut out the screens, and cut a second piece of cardboard the same size of the keybord piece.



Glue the keybord piece and the extra pice together, making a 2mm thick keybord - to be the thickness of the table top:



Use the main sheet and cut out the monitor part and the keybord part.



Construction of monitor panel to follow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Monitor panel:

Cut out as shown



Stick cardboard from previous post to the back of this piece as shown, aligning the notches, leaving about a 1mm space between the two pieces.



Fold over and stick down the flaps



Glue the monitor panel to the top part of the back wall (top part is the wiesr part above the window), then stick the LED to the monitor panel as shown...



and route the wires



Fold the monitor panel back and glue the bottom part to just above the window



By gently pressing the folds, get the monitor panel into shape. Monitor panel done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Keybord Panel

Cut from template



Stick 2mm thick piece to back of the panel, aligning the notches



Fold over the flaps and bend on the edges



Stick the bottom part of the keybord up to the fold line and fold the bottom (kick plate area) back.



Glue the keybord panel to the back wall, just under the window frame.



If you are using self adhesive paper, make sure that the kick plate does not stick to the back wall. It will be stuck the upright of the base at a later stage.

Keybord panel done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Getting it together...

Cut out main part



and fold on the edges:



Stick previously assembled back wall to the back of the main part, using the window frame as alignment.



Stick side walls (made earlier when back wall was done) to the wings of the main part, leaving a 1mm gap between side panels and back wall.



Fold side walls in, ensure that wires are running correctly, and that side panels fit cosy around base's uprights...



Stick bottom flaps to underside of base



Then glue top side flaps to top of monitor panel, leaving the top flap of the front side sticking up (for use on the roof)



Come-on, nearly done!

Roof next....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Roof:

Stick roof template to 1mm cardboard and cut out:





Glue/stick roof to flap of front panel, leaving enough room for hinge-ing effect in order for roof to fold down onto pillars.





Cut roof template



Take note that front side's long flap is also cut off (small error in template, sorry)



Stick roof template on to roof



Fold and glue roof flaps



Then glue (I used super glue) roof to tops of pillars



Install stools

I have used map pins - the pins taken out by heating them with a soldering iron - then turning the pin upside down, drilling a 2mm dia hole 4 mm deep into the thinner part of the plastic.

I then inserted and glued a toothpick (2mm thick and cut to 17mm long) (4mm into stool, 7mm between bottom of stool and base, 6mm into base = 17mm)

The black part of the stool's leg is heat shrink (7mm long)

The toothpick is sunk into the base in a 2mm dia hole (base is 6mm thick)



All done.

I hope you make your own perches and enjoy it as much as I do.

Please share your pics and designs.

I still have 5 more to do.

Thanx for sharing

TK
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm still not happy with the final product. As you will notice in the pics, the images gets scuffed very easily during the building process.

I'm thinking of giving the printouts a few light coats of clear matt protection spray, before cutting them.

Any suggestions?

I'm also not very satisfied with the roof. Will tinker with some corrugated cardboard, for a more textured roof. Will post if positive.

Patience....... I need more of it. Can you buy it in a can?

Cheers
TK
 

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I think they look great, and the template is fantastic. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanx Bam!

I've added a corrugated roof with an advert , still not 100% but much better. The corrugated roof give a better textured feel.

While I was at it I thought I had to add some VHF and telemetry antennas. Guessed the length. Any body knows what the scale length of the antennas must be and how many is used. I know that the higher the frequency the shorter the antenna. VHF for radio comms will be much longer that the high frequency ones used for the data.

Some pics of the new roof and antennas in situ (temporaly):







I will dismantle and redo the red bull one and do the rest next weekend. Tomorrow it is of to Namibia for me....

Cheers!
TK
 

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Thanks a lot TeeKay for charing as yours work. It looks great and will enhance my track! Back too paper build Thanks from Lasp
 

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Hello Theo,

Thank you very much for this great step by step "how to"
appreciate the effort you took to share how to make it.

All the best,
 
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