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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A just set up my track into digital but still i have a lot of cars that have not been chipped, plus my son friends cars are not chipped. is ther a way to tranform the track from digital to analogue with minimume work and back again.

i have read some were that the power supply that has 2 transformers should do the trick
 

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To use the track with Analogue you either need to remove all the lane Changers or cut two wires in each one. See this post for which wires to cut.

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=229977

The changers will still function ok in the Digital mode after the wires are cut.
You will of course have to swap out the Digital Console and substitute an Analogue Console.

Rich
 

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You also have to remove the chip from any car that you have converted to digital too correct?
 

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You can leave the chip installed just have to disconnect the wires to the chip and and run the motor wires to the guide.

Best regards,
Brian
 

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Come on guys you are in danger of confusing this simple issue,
the original question says.

QUOTE (Maniac @ 9 Jan 2007, 11:47) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>i have a lot of cars that have not been chipped, plus my son friends cars are not chipped.
This is about running the Analogue cars they have in their collection.


Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yep such a simple question that i didnt ask before, i fried one of the lane changers. cos i connected the dual transformer supply and didnt modify the lane changers. with the result puff smoke bang

now only 1 lane changer instead of 2......and will have to get 2 pairs instead of 1 to fix up the track again.
 

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you could try taking it back to the shop you got it from, and just say it stopped working, they'll probably replace it.

Matt
 

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Hi Maniac

This is the third report I have heard of a lC frying when connected to Analogue. What I don't understand is that cutting the two wires is to split the lanes and to allow you to control a car in each separately. I would not expect it to prevent the LC from frying?

At the moment I cannot explain why LC's have fried when connected to an Analogue supply? Do you know how may volts your analogue supply is? Do you still have the faulty LC and can you take a picture of the fried circuit board?

See this thread here for another example.

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=231201

Picture is not very clear, the failed component is one of the smoothing capacitors.



You can see them more clearly in this picture. Would be very interesting to see if the same component has failed on your LC?

Rich
 

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Maniac has sent me a PM, but I will answer it here as best that the answer is shared.

QUOTE i would like to thank you for the advice
but can i ask some questions on how to turn this track into both analogue n digital

i have to disconnect the black long wire and short grey wire or completely remove them
i will place 4 lane changers and a pit lane do i have to modify the pit lane as well.
the only track part that i have to replace to use analogue is the power supple track

After the cuts are made the track will run fine in both Digital and Analogue modes.
You can either cut the wires or remove them. I would just cut them where they join the tracks at the top & bottom of the track piece. That way if the need arrises you can solder them back.

The pit lane does not require modification.

Yes that is correct the only part to swap out completely is the Console power supply track piece.

However please bear in mind that I am not happy as to why the LC was fried. We need to get to the bottom of that problem. Until we have done so there is risk of more failures, weather the wires are cut or not. Anyone who can supply pictures of fried LC electronics can help.

Also for anyone who has fried a LC when connecting an analogue Powerbase.

Which Ninco Analogue Power supply track did you use, Blue or Red?
Did it blow when conecting the power or when the throttle was first pressed?
What voltage is the Ninco PSU, particularily when off load?

I still believe that if the LC is going to fry it will do it regardless of weather the tracks are cut or not.


Rich
 

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The transformer used was a standard ninco 14v transformer, and the part that seems that has damage is 1 of the smoothing chips or whatever that thing is


in your pic the smoothing chip is not that burned out in mine it sure is will add a pic i hope later on.
 

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OK that's two smoothing capacitors we are getting somewhere.

Any chance of a photograph or can you check that the capacitor was fitted the correct way round?

If you look at the picture you will see there is a band on the bottom edge. Is the blown one in sufficiently good condition that you can see the band and weather it is at the bottom or top of the component?

Also can anyone measure the output voltage of the PSU with no load?

There are three possibilities when it comes to fried capacitors, going from most to least likely.
1) Too many volts applied to component.
2) Component fitted in reverse.
3) Faulty component

What I am concerned about here is that the smoothing capacitors are rated at 16V. If the off load voltage is much over 16V that could cause the capacitor to blow.
Do not be mislead by it being marked 14V, if unregulated, or poorly regulated the off load voltage will be much higher.

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
exact same numbers as the one in your pic, the smoothing that fried i cant read the number as its totaly fried.
will add pic later on in a few min.
and the one taht got fried is the one nearest to the selonoid driver
 

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QUOTE (RichG @ 9 Jan 2007, 19:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>There are three possibilities when it comes to fried capacitors, going from most to least likely.
1) Too many volts applied to component.
2) Component fitted in reverse.
3) Faulty component

What I am concerned about here is that the smoothing capacitors are rated at 16V. If the off load voltage is much over 16V that could cause the capacitor to blow.
Do not be mislead by it being marked 14V, if unregulated, or poorly regulated the off load voltage will be much higher.
Rich

I definitly vote for 1)
I have measured the voltage of the Ninco analog supply PS148-700 and it is a 100 Hertz positive sine wave of 28 Volts peak (output of a 4 diodes bridge- Weaston- if I can recall from my studies). No doubt it kills the caps of your LC IC


So the bad news is that if you use your NINCO PS148-700 supply while converting in analog, you are going to fry your LC ICs.


But I have a good news
. The N-Digital YS25-2 Supply is a true regulated 14 volts, it connects to the Red analog suppy rail and obviously works fine in analog
. No reason why it will burn the LC IC.

My conclusion (but I have not tryed it yet in analog, not to burn my LCs), if you convert your N-Digital in Analog keep using either the N-Digital YS25-2 supply (or a regulated supply not exceeding too much 14 Volts)

MatraMan
 

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Thanks MatraMan

We need to spread the word.

Do not attempt to connect your Ninco Digital track to Analogue power with the lane changers in circuit. Weather or not you have disconnected any of the wires in the changer

You should also not leave in circuit the Pit Lane or the Tower, and probably the 40206 digital sensor pieces, they have the same 16v capacitors.

Unless. You use a regulated DC supply of less than 15 Volts.

Matraman is the PS148-700 PSU the same as the N- 10301 PSU that is listed with Ninco Powerbases?
Are we sure there are no voltage regulation components in the Red or Blue Powerbases?

Rich
 

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Rich,

I don't have the N-digital set yet, but looking at your LC circuit board. Are you sure the tantalum caps are not on the +5V rail. And you are not mistaken the zener for "reverse connection diode"? (zeners are a cheap way for voltage regulation).

What's the normal voltage cross the two tantalum capacitors? If they are on +5v, they should not have blown even if the track is 24V.

BTW, my PS148-700-US outputs 24V when there is no load. And I didn't like how my car responed, I bought the digital 14V regulated power supply (40303) for my analog track and I loved it.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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Rich,i'm the one with the fried smoothing in the link on post #8.i tried to get a better picture but i can't get a clear shot up close like yours.i need to be about 3 feet away with no zoom to get it clear,then it's to far away to really see anything.
i was using the red power base with transform ps148-700-us
on the sticker it says on load:dc 14.8v,700mA,10va
no load:dc 21v(ac120v-60hz)
when i unsoldered the smoothing from my board,it came off in 2 pieces from it popping but the rest of the board looks to be in good shape.just a little discolor around where the smoothing was.
do you think a new smoothing could be put on and the lc would work.or is the board more than likely fried?
sorry i couldn't get a better pic.i'll try and take one tomorrow outside in the sunlight and see if it will get any better.
 

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JonnyC,

It looks like from your description, only one of the two capacitors was fried. I am guessing it is the left hand one, the one that's closest to the input. That one is probably responsible for smoothing the supply voltage (24V max), the other one for the +5V.

I really think Ninco should have put in a tantalum capacitor that is rated at least for 25V for unregulated power supply side.

You can put everything back and test it with just one car with very short track. The capacitor is only there to smooth out the supply voltage, if there is only one car and very short track, you are making the noise as low as possible. And if the rest of the board is OK, the LC should still work.
 

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QUOTE (dchao @ 10 Jan 2007, 03:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>JonnyC,

It looks like from your description, only one of the two capacitors was fried. I am guessing it is the left hand one, the one that's closest to the input. That one is probably responsible for smoothing the supply voltage (24V max), the other one for the +5V.

I really think Ninco should have put in a tantalum capacitor that is rated at least for 25V for unregulated power supply side.

You can put everything back and test it with just one car with very short track. The capacitor is only there to smooth out the supply voltage, if there is only one car and very short track, you are making the noise as low as possible. And if the rest of the board is OK, the LC should still work.

if you look the pic Richg post at #8,mine is a mirror image of the one in the pic.mine's off a right-left lc.the one in the pic is off a left-right lc.but if you go by the wires solder to the board,the smoothing closest to the wire input blew out on mine.
i'm going to go by the electronic shop tomorrow and see if they have a smoothing for iy.
 

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The one that's closest to the input is for smoothing the track input. And a 24V input into a tantalum capacitor that's rated for only 16V will FRY it for sure! If the other capacitor is still intact, the chances are the rest the circuit will be fine. Good luck.

If you local electronic store doesn't stock surface mount tantalum cap, try mouser.com or DigiKey and do a search for "tantalum" and look for the SMD version. Looking at Rich's picture, you will need the 100uF, 25V one (107 on the packaging = 100uF).
 

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Morning Guys

Thanks for your inputs, as ever this one is slightly more complicated than it looks, so for the moment.

Do not attempt to run analogue with the changers in circuit.

I need to trace the circuit further to fully understand, but the connection of the components is not as it first appears.

The capacitors are in parallel, connected at one end through 2 zero ohm resistors.
One rail feeds the capacitors through the diode, it seems to be 0.7v silicon.
The other side of the capacitors connects to the other rail.

What you cannot see from the picture is that it is the negative rail that feeds the diode and the positive rail that feeds the other side of the capacitors.

In normal operation the diode is reversed biassed and measuring across the capacitors there is very little voltage.

However if the supply is connected the wrong way round, or you flick the reversing switch on the Powerbase, then the diode will conduct and you will get the full supply voltage across the capacitors. This will be what is blowing them up, and I think someone mentioned the reversing switch?

Does not make complete sense to me, without tracing the rest of the circuit, but for now advice remains the same.

Do not attempt to run analogue with the changers in circuit.

And before someone asks.
I am not yet saying it's OK so long as you run clockwise, but that may be where we end up.


Rich
 
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