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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
The history of BRM in the CanAm is one of those "what might have been" situations. The P154 was capable of being quick, and perhaps with better engine prep it could have been a challenger. The following P167 was a winner in the Interserie.
As part of the evolution, the initial wedge rear body gave way to a more conventional rear wing, before the full P167 redesign was completed.
Tire Vehicle Wheel Car Automotive tire

This is my 3DP version of this body, thanks to Nimrod444 for the wonderful CAD work. It weighs in at 13g and should look quite nice in gloss black.
Wood Material property Rectangle Gadget Technology

Thank you for looking.
 

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Do you have te rest of the car in 3dp?

Cheers
 

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Another huge 3DP success, Chappyman! As a great fan of all things BRM and CanAm, I'm looking forward to this build. Like so many things in motor racing, I'm not sure I want to believe this was all 50 years ago.

How fortunate we all are to be able to relive it through slot cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Fortunate indeed, Laurence. Slot cars are my Walter Mitty experience.

GDSlot - not sure what you mean, but yes I have a motor plate and wing as well as some home-brew 3DP suspension parts that will be added once the body is prepped and painted.

Rectangle Gesture Font Electric blue Personal protective equipment

I was inspired by finishing the paint on my P154, and finding the Patto's decals....that body will shortly be in need of the chassis. More of that when finished.
 

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Fortunate indeed, Laurence. Slot cars are my Walter Mitty experience.

GDSlot - not sure what you mean, but yes I have a motor plate and wing as well as some home-brew 3DP suspension parts that will be added once the body is prepped and painted.
brm plate.jpg

I was inspired by finishing the paint on my P154, and finding the Patto's decals....that body will shortly be in need of the chassis. More of that when finished.
Thats exactly what I mean, the simulated motor and the wing, altought I have not figured yet how you are going to fit them with the mabuchi motor in the rear (I asume its gonna be a Sw?).

Nice car, will be looking forward your progress mate.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The motor plate simply glues between the rear pontoons, and the wing on the rear of the plate. I may have to trim some inner fenders of the pontoons to clear the motor but the SW mounts are generally OK with motor plates. Most of my other CanAm cars are built that way.
 

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Very cool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for your kind words.
Filler primer applied. It's not glassy smooth, as I am not a fine scale modeler. But I didn't spend more than 10 minutes on it...needle files work quite well for taking the sharp edges off PLA. It's good enough for my use, first color going on this morning.

White Automotive tire Light Automotive design Toy

The nose on this one has plenty of room for the guide post once some extra material is trimmed away. I did that in TinkerCAD before printing. That's actually the most of the P154 but the hybrid is the same.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wet sanded the primer, then two coats of color this morning. Wet sand with 600 grit between.
Not perfect, but plenty good enough for me.
Automotive tire Camera lens Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive design

If you zoom in, you will see some layer lines over the fenders etc where I didn't spend as much time smoothing. However, all my 3DP cars are runners and not shelf queens, so I don't mind.
Other folks might put more effort into smoothing them.

Chassis is on the printer. Should be able to build it tonight.
 

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If you zoom in, you will see some layer lines over the fenders etc where I didn't spend as much time smoothing. However, all my 3DP cars are runners and not shelf queens, so I don't mind.
Other folks might put more effort into smoothing them.
Hola chappyman66,

Nunca he lijado este tipo de material y tampoco sé que grosor tienes en la carrocería, pero, y a partir de mi experiencia en hacer coches con fibra de vidrio naval...

Utilizando lija de "grano medio-grande" (P-60), en unos pocos segundos y sin apenas esfuerzo quedaría liso. Luego unas pasadas con P-220 o más y acabas con lija al agua. Estas lijas son las que estoy utilizando ahora.

Todo es probar y "correr riesgos". Además, pesará menos y correrá más.

Hi chappyman66,

I have never sanded this type of material and I do not know how thick your bodywork is, but, and from my experience in making cars with naval fiberglass ...
Using "medium-large grain" sandpaper (P-60), in a few seconds and with little effort it would be smooth. Then a few passes with P-220 or more and you finish with water-based sandpaper. These sandpaper are the ones I am using now.
It's all about trying and "taking risks". Plus, it will weigh less and run more.

Frederic
 

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Frederic,
You are of course correct. As a woodworker I often take this approach before finishing a project.

With 3DP one must be cautious, depending on print orientation etc.
Digital camera Audio equipment Cameras & optics Gadget Gas

Most bodies are like the photo above, with two thin shells having matrix between them. Being too aggressive in sanding can lead to holes, or scratches that must be filled later. Any use of putty/filler adds more weight to the body, and I try to avoid that.

Kevan is fond of saying that layers leave low spots, not high spots. Regardless of which way you look at it, adding more material (putty, resin, etc) to smooth the surface adds weight.

Again, I am not attempting to sell anyone or anything. I am just trying to show my process and the results I get, for my own hobby use. Clearly anyone who invests more time and effort will get a better, smoother body, as with any scratch build.

Keep in mind this is showing what can be done with an Ender3. Resin printers are capable of MUCH smoother finishes.

Kind Regards
 

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...Kevan is fond of saying that layers leave low spots, not high spots. Regardless of which way you look at it, adding more material (putty, resin, etc) to smooth the surface adds weight.
Correct, and here's a microscopic view...

Rectangle Slope Urban design Skyscraper Line

I like to brush a thin layer of UV resin over the obvious areas then cure in sunlight or a 405nm light source, you're talking fractions of a gram of added weight but this has two advantages:

#1 seals and reinforces the surfaces

#2 when flatted back it nice and smooth
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A few more steps in the build process complete.
Chassis build complete although I may end of widening the front end. My standard 3DP chassis (thanks, tomato_007!), D3D pod, 14K motor, 3DP front wheels, 3DP guide.
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Machine Auto part


These are the brass inserts that I use, and the resulting body posts:
Wood Automotive lighting Audio equipment Gas Gadget Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Wood Bumper Line

I take the posts, and screw them to the chassis:
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At this point the body sits on the posts, and I can see about how much I need to take off. These were MUCH too long.
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Once I start shortening the posts, it becomes a cut/check height process until I am filing off small amounts to reach the right stance. Here the front end is still riding a little high although the rear is close.

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That looks pretty good to me; now the posts get some CYA, and I flip it upside down to position and set.

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I ended up grinding a bit of the underside to clear the lead wires. I use a fillet of CYA to set the posts more solidly.

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Now on to painting the motor plate and wing, plus a bit of rear detailing before making the decals.
 

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An excellent model of a beautiful CanAm car, Chappyman. Greatly looking forward to seeing the end result.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Most of the details are done. Motor plate, wing, inserts, interior, rear panel.
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Still needs a roll bar and decals.
 
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