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Gregory Petrolati
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title states I ordered and received 2 castings from George Turner a Maseratti 300S and a McLaren M1A. Both are fabulous castings very light quite strong and worth every penny.

I'm no stranger to scratch building... The Maser will be built with a brass rail/Slotit motor pod... a great solution to something that will look really trick and once set up will run like "bloody clappers". I've got a question as to how to proceed with the McLaren. Should I go with the supplied resin chassis components... or try to make up something on my own? Is there anyone who can tell me how the car runs with the stock chassis compared to other cars in this class. If anyone has made up their own chassis how did you proceed? I own very few "shelf queens" (usually cars I just don't enjoy or can't get to run well enough but don't have the will to get rid of). I want the McLaren to be a good runner... one that I would be competitive.

I've only had one resin chassis cars, a Slot Classic Morgan which took a LOT of work to get it to run as well as it does.

Greenman62
 

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Greenman

After seeing photos of the resin chassis that George has made for two of the cars in the range that he sells I think that they are rigid enough to be as raceable as any plastic chassis car. He has lots of bracing built into the chassis running fore and aft and some solid looking axle mounts and motor mounts that might be stiffer than some of the ready to run cars. I have two of his GP cars that I will be picking up this weekend and I plan to build them as supplied. I have learned the hard way that I may not be as smart as a guy who has done this sort of thing for a living for some time now. A simple Ninco chassis is under the car that is walking away from the field in the IPS races.

Cheers Ken
 

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I found the cut-outs for motor and bushes were a little on the loose side for me so I've used a PCS32 chassis on mine.
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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2,015 Posts
Personally, I think George's cars have more body detail and fine attention to craft as faithful scale reproductions as basic castings than Racer and all the other manufacturers around them. They are worth far more in terms of quality and design than he charges.

George's resin chassis are absolutely fine. There's no need to change them or fit other parts. I urge you to ty the chassis before you throw a bomb of $$$ to buy in parts that you are hoping will be any better.

As with all resin chassis, the material is too soft to hold axle bearings for long. All you have to do is fit vertical rods 'Scalextric style' from the interior body to hold the bearings in place. In some models you'll also find the guide shaft is a little delicate, so just open it a little and glue in a reinforcing ring of more durable material.
 

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Philip Insull
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1,793 Posts
I've run George's A35 & Imp with resin chassis in the last two Wolves Classic Saloon meetings and they've proved surprisingly quick and very sturdy (No breakages to report) My two M1A's run ok with the resin chassis although I've never used them in a serious meeting but the handling is fine (I have glued the motor and rear axle bearings in place on these two). At worst try the chassis if you don't like it you lose nothing and can switch the bit
s into a scratch chassis instead?
Cheers
Phil
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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1,022 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
QUOTE Scratcbuild.

--------------------
BWA(Best Wheels Available)

bwaslotcars.com

Right Al... Know where I can get some wheels and inserts? (just ask'n)


Greenman
 

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Greenman - since I have so many smaller cars like it running the Sebring chassis - that's what I'm using on mine to keep the field even.

I've cut the side pods to the body off the chassis and have glued them to the body and made my own mounts. Sadly, that's as far as I'll get until the holiday break!
 
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