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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help! I need some inspiration. Here's the situation........

I've got a boat-load of Scalextric classis track that I'd like to build into a rally loop using an SCX Rally Chrono Pack. So far, so OKish.

The table it's going to go on is going to be 12ft x 3ft max. My biggest problem is that I can't get Scalextric track designer to work on my ancient laptop.


As far as I can see, I'm going to need a few more R1s to be able to get a decent length loop in the space available, but that won't be a problem as there always seems to be plenty on eBay. What is likely to be a problem is leaving enough room for borders on the outside of the corners, for plenty of tail-out action, and cramming as much track on the table. Flyovers/elevation won't be a problem. I'd like the track to be as "technical" as possible.

I'm not planning any scenery/buildings (other than the Chrono start).

The track I've got is.....
19 x standard straight
7x half straight
1x quarter straight
19x 45deg R2
8x 22.5deg R3
4x 45deg R1
4X 90deg R1

I've also got some spare assorted Sport track which could be included, if necessary, including the necessary converters and the 90deg track crossing thingy.

Any ideas gratefully received.

TIA
Stuart.
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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Not being able to get Scaley Track Designer to work is no great loss, believe me. Try something else instead. I used SlotMan (free download, website here) which has a track designer and libraries for most track types. And it seems the majority of the track planners use Ultimate Racer 3.0 (also free download here) which has the same.

Would probably be worth downloading both software offerings and have a play to find which one best suits you.

Embs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for that. ^^^^^
I'll give them a go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some nice layouts there ^^^^^. Thanks for posting them here.


I'm back-pedalling slightly!
TBH, I'm not sure that I have enough room for a second layout. Without limiting any rally-loop purely to R1s, I'm looking at a width of something like 1mtr, and that will barely leave me room to manoeuvre between the two.

So that leaves me with 2 options.....
1) Work-out how to insert a switchable crossover into the current layout, allowing me to have dual-purpose race/rally facilities.
2) Do nothing. The current layout has plenty of rally-like tail-out action possibilities.

Option 2 is the boring one. But, how am I going to make option 1 work? I can get my head around the track design, but how do I avoid electrical issues without having to keep swapping a racing crossover into and out of the layout?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry if I'm getting boring, but I'm really using this thread as a means of thinking aloud.


I've now come-up with another solution. This one involves an SCX Rally Chrono set, on to my existing race track for one lap of lane 1 via a manually operated Scalextric Digital pit lane, and back onto the rally loop via another pit lane. I'll try to do something with one of the track designers, so you can see what I'm getting at.
 

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Tore
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Hi Stuart, here is a quick mock-up of a 12 X 3 rally or "rally cross" loop using the Chrono Pack and most of the track you have available in your track list above.



One square on the sketch is 10 cm, so the yellow lines indicate a 360 x 100 cm table (aprox. 12 x 3 feet).

The lap length is about 77 feet, which should give a good lap time around 12-13 seconds without magnets.

Tore
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for that Tore. I appreciate your time and trouble.


What track designer program are you using? I haven't found one yet that has the Chrono pack in.

This is my existing race track layout, done on UR3.0.....



Currently, I'm using a racing cross-over to replace the 2x R2 at the top of the diagram to give me a 2-lap rally stage with a length of c.90ft. Lap times are 13-14sec with my current collection of rally cars.

I'm starting to find it tedious swapping the track sections when I want to change from race to rally and vice-versa.

I've started planning my proposed rally loop addition to the existing layout on UR3.0 and I'll post it here when it's complete.
 

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QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 8 Aug 2011, 06:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've started planning my proposed rally loop addition to the existing layout on UR3.0 and I'll post it here when it's complete. I've given-up on the addition of a rally loop to the race track for the time being. I've been working on this stand-alone rally loop. The green R2 at top left would be the Chrono start ramp (I couldn't find that piece on UR). The loop section by the start would be at "ground level", not elevated - I couldn't work-out how to change it. UR says the loop is 26.8mtr.
So it's about another 11ft longer than Tore's, plus I get the empty area, top right, to park the cars on.

I do still like Tore's effort, above, and I may well have to go for something more like that, if I can't get my head 'round supporting all the elevations I'll need in this one.

All comments, favourable or otherwise, welcome.



As per my race track, I don't plan any scenary. All I will be doing is borders, which will be DIY.

What I need to know now, is what's the best way to smooth the surface of Scalextric classic and SCX track? The texture of Sport track seems to work well with my cars. I had wondered about masking the rails, spraying plastic primer and then primer/filler. Anyone got any thoughts on this? I suppose I could go for harder tyres instead, but if I do that some of the cars (A110, Escorts, Sunbeam) will need new wheels as well as I don't seem to be able to find alternative tyres to suit the "older classic" cars.

Cheers,
Stuart.
 

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Tore
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Lot of levels there


You might struggle to see the car on most of the low level, but it depends a bit on how much height you add between the levels. Simple method of checking how a layout may work is to print it out on paper, cut out the "track" with a scissor and tape/glue it together, like a miniature of a miniature track


Adding borders in the layout program also help to see how much space the track actually requires and show where you need an "overhang" between the levels. If the borders of two turns overlap then both turns must either be level to each other or they must have enough vertical space between them to make an overhang.

As for the surface, you may level it as you describe, or use a mix of paint/spackle as I have done, but I would recommend to clean the track properly and drive on it for a couple of weeks first. When racing no-mag with rubber tires the track will "rubber up" after some thousand laps, and that will totally change the grip level/characteristic. SCX tires are made for the SCX track so tire wear on the standard track is not a big problem, and there are replacement tires available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the input Tore.


At the moment, this one is on the back burner. I'm in the process of building a new table for my race track. Once that's done, and the race track is assembled, I'll make a start on the table for the rally track. I won't be seeing the Chrono pack until Christmas Day, so there's no great rush just now. What I'll probably end-up doing, once the rally table is built, is playing around with the track I have here so I can see what works for me and what doesn't.

Cheers
Stuart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
QUOTE (356speedster @ 17 Aug 2011, 08:48) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Lot of levels there

TBH, that did worry me a bit. Then I came up with this..........



It's level, and according to UR it's 26.6mtrs. I'll need to make plenty of custom borders, but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. Plus there's a possibility that the table I'll be making for it will end-up being L-shaped, so I could get a bit more track on.


BTW, my race track doesn't look like the one above anymore! It's longer, narrower and has more straights and less corners/curves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm no further on with my rally loop - I'm waiting patiently for Santa to arrive with my Rally Chrono. That's not to say I don't think about what I'm going to do when I have got all the stuff to hand.

Currently, I'm wondering about butchering my spare track sections and making the rally loop mainly single-track, with two-way just in the vacinity of the Rally Chrono. If I cut the track down the centre, will it still hold together, or will I need to glue it?
Will this give me the facility to use inner and outer sections of curves within my loop?

TIA
Stuart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's occurred to me that I'm likely to have 2 problems with my original idea of a Scalextric classic/SCX rally loop:-
1) It will be too grippy for my liking. I've got used to the way (most of) my rally cars drive on Sport track.
2) Most of my current, and future, rally cars are SCX and they will all need their guides shortened for the classic track. At the moment, the count is 12 and that's only going to rise.

I've got a couple of possible solutions
a. Dismantle my current (Sport) race track and build the rally loop with it, using C8222 converters to connect into the SCX Chrono Pack. Then I can rebuild the race track with mostly classic track. That would leave me with 4 (IIRC, I know I've already done a couple) SCX LMP and GT cars to tweek the guide blades on. I don't intend buying any more race cars, so once that's done that will be that.
b. Partially dismantle the current race track and insert the Chrono Pack and loops. If I choose to go this way, I'll have 16 redundant LMP, GT and Touring cars, half of which I'd be loathe to punt-on because they were gifts from family members. With this option, however, I wouldn't have to build a second table.

TBH I'm always more inclined to use the rally cars than the others and if I had 2 layouts the race track wouldn't get much use. On the other hand, if I only had the rally loop and I fancied some race action I'd have to spend an hour rebuilding the track first.

Decisions, decisions.....................
 

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SCX cars don't need they're guides trimming for classic track, I don't know why you thought they did.
The too grippy is fairly easy to solve - paint the track with gloss paint, but I don't really think it's a problem, my rally track is made up of Sport, Classic and SCX track, the change in grip adds to the challenge - most 1:1 rally stages have changes of surface and grip.
 

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Tore
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I agree with Julian, The SCX guides work OK on Classic track. Some cars might slightly bottom out if they use soft (PRO) braids re-threaded to a "single braid" setup, but making a slight angle on the tip of the guide flag sorts that out without reducing the guides function on Sport track.

As for the grip, the Classic has more "mechanical" grip than Sport when the track is new, but after a while when the track starts to "rubber up" the grip difference between them will even out.

Tore
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Julian and Tore, thank you both for the constructive comments.

QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 21 Oct 2011, 09:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>SCX cars don't need they're guides trimming for classic track, I don't know why you thought they did. A few months ago when I was still using the classic track, I bought my first SCX car and the guide blade fouled on the track webs. I enquired here and was told it's a known compatability issue and the blade needs trimmed. I did this on two of my SCX cars, but as I worked through my Sport track upgrade, it became less of an issue. However, I'm still using my classic Pacer and most of the SCX cars rattle across it.
IIRC, some pieces of the classic track were worse than others - straights noisy, curves OK;- or vice-versa.
It's just occurred to me while I've been typing that I could try folding the trailing part of the braids under the leading one on the offending cars.

QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 21 Oct 2011, 09:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>most 1:1 rally stages have changes of surface and grip. Quite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is the track I've come-up with to fit on my existing table. It's got an overall length of 36mtrs.
I haven't put all the borders on the plan, most of them will be custom made run-offs without barriers. There's likely to be a track-side obstacle coming off the R2 right-hander that leads onto the longest straight - any drifting around that one will end-up in an interface with an upright roof support!


 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
QUOTE (StuBeeDoo @ 23 Oct 2011, 10:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>It's just occurred to me that I could try folding the trailing part of the braids under the leading one on the offending cars.
I did and it seems to have worked. I don't know how I didn't think of it before.
 

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OK, this is where the build begins!


Wor Lass has ordered the SCX Chrono (plus 5 cars) for my Christmas present and I've built the frame for the table. The table top sections have been cut (thanks B&Q!) and laid in plece while I trial-build it all.

As a temporary measure, I've joined the track where the Chrono loops will be, for testing purposes. One end of the track is fairly flat, but at the other I'm having a tunnel over a straight with a 180deg R1+R2 bend and a series of hairpins with various gradients between them.

I don't know if these photos will do it justice..........











I'm pretty happy with the way it drives, but I want to somehow make some borders as the most tail-happy cars are clattering the Armco on the outsides of the bends at the minute. Anyone got any ideas for me on this one? I don't want to use Scalextric borders, because the red/white kerbs are too "race-track".


I've decided not to paint (or otherwise) the track, this is going to be a tarmac stage.

As per my race track (which will be getting a re-design once the rally track is finished) I won't be bothering with scenary, but it will be a little tidyer than you see it here.

Next I need to dismantle the track, clean all the rails, and straighten a few. Then the table top will get screwed-down, and everything re-assembled with the track supports cut to the correct lengths and the front of the tunnel boarded-in. I'll have to make a couple of supports where the 2 hairpins overhang the table, as well.

As ever, all comments taken on board.
 
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