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Hi all, your opinion please.
I have just bought a sheet of MDF 12mm. cut down to 4 x 4. Going to build a skidpad for testing cars, tyres etc. Mainly for proxy racing.
Thing is. What to paint it with.
My first thought was Latex paint. Dave uses Textured paint , Sandtex. Bearing in mind, the tracks over the pond favour Silicon tyres, Latex seems to be the option.
But for all round testing, Tyres, balance etc. What do you routed guys suggest?

Cheers
Andy
 

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If you are mainly testing for proxy racing it makes sense to use a similar surface to the tracks your cars will race on in these proxy races.
That way gives you the best chance of setting up the cars best for the conditions the car will race in the proxy races.
There's rather less value in testing in different conditions from where they will be raced
 

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Built this about 6 years ago. Great fun. Something different. Alot of people cant see the point but just fooling around with different ideas and using different cars in different situations gives you a good overall idea of how the cars compare.



The cars usually just skid and wash off a bit of speed and just sort of make their way around the circle in a sort of triangle. its very hard to keep them in a controlled slide but the standout performer was the Scalextric Ferrari F40.

The drift cars are good fun as well.
 

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You might need a couple of surfaces to try.
Maybe one at each extreme; Smooth/gloss latex; Blackboard/Sandtex etc?
How about a double sided board?
I reckon you migh also consider a figure 8 so you can see effects on change of direction.
Or, just put a reversing switch on it so you can test both left and right handers.
 

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Yes, had thought of a Double sided board. But that has problems in itself. Wires? 2 for power, 2 of detector, 2 for LED. No, one side will do.
I'll post photos here as I progress, will be starting the job in 0.002s. Using UR30 for timing.

The Paint. We race on Daves Textured pant surface, so may go with that. But??

This is just for my benefit. No matter what I paint it with, it's only good for me. It should however give me some idea on haw a car will react to a given surface and tyre. It no doubt will perform in a different way on all other tracks it races on, no matter what the surface is.
As I'm planning for next years RAA, and most tracks you guys have are suited to Super Tyres, Silicon, Latex seems to be the paint to use.

Cheers
Andy
 

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If you wanted two different surfaces on one side you could have a second smaller diameter lane inside the big one.
 

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Hi guys, dont know if this is really relavant but anyway......
I ve just been tiling my bathroom and the tile glue for the floor is a powder based , mix with water glue. It mixes up to a dark grey colour and drys light grey ( similar colour to alot of painted tracks I've seen here ) It is a flexible rubberey glue, even once cured, with a slightly textured finish, almost like fine sandpaper. You can spread it really thin with a plaster knife. I even tried it on a piece of scalex trak and it adhereed really well and kept its flexible properties.It also has the benefits, ( unlike paint ) of being a filler. It will even out any humps and hollows , or track joints. I am considering doing my whole scalex track, but was wondering Has any one tried anything like this???? Grant
 

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Wow! You started young!

So if this was you 6 years ago you must be about 9 now!!!!!!??????

QUOTE (uksqueezea @ 13 Oct 2011, 00:49) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Built this about 6 years ago. Great fun. Something different. Alot of people cant see the point but just fooling around with different ideas and using different cars in different situations gives you a good overall idea of how the cars compare.



The cars usually just skid and wash off a bit of speed and just sort of make their way around the circle in a sort of triangle. its very hard to keep them in a controlled slide but the standout performer was the Scalextric Ferrari F40.

The drift cars are good fun as well.
 

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I have three-- one for Carrera, one of wood, and one that can either have SCX or Sport put down. I made border for the plastic track on a scroll saw. The surface of the wood one is identical to the wood track I race on. If you make more than one then make themstackable so they take up very little space. Make all connectors identical so you use the same Power supply and timer. I use an HO train power supply that varies from 0-15 volts. You will never need 15.
 

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Just been doing a bit more this evening.



Ok, so the wiring is a bit messy, but under tests, you understand.



Copper down on outer slot.



Could only find 1 detector, more on order.



And a quick test.





Timing by UR30, but for some reason, only counts up now and then. 30 laps, but erratic, like, counts 1 -6 then misses 2 or 3, then counts the next 15, misses some and so on ???? Scratch head.

Slot.it F40, @ max of 5.80 Volts before she pops out of slot. Gave a G of 14.924 using the formula G = (1.226 × r)/t² or 14.924 = (1.226 x18)/12.680721 (Lap time of 3.561, Dia. 36")
Please, someone correct me if they see an error in my calculations.
Remember, this was just a teat, board not painted yet. Hope to have that done later this week. Once I have the detector and copper down for the inner lane.
 
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