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Inox MX3 vs MX5

3574 Views 13 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Stalyoni78, 
V
Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone has used Inox MX5 instead of MX3 to clean their track rails?

I called the Inox company today and had a conversation with someone there and they think it will do the same thing. The main difference between the two is that MX5 has Teflon for added lubrication.

I would love to hear your options from any experience with it.

Thanks
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portals999
2
Well that's a good question!

Have a look at this link:

https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx5-plus-ptfe-lubricant/

I first got a bottle of INOX MX3 from 'Mr Modifier' here on forum few yrs ago, it lasts for ages but I bought another one when it got half empty, just in-case it disappeared (it didn't and you can now get it easily, even from Pendles In UK).

So second bottle I bought ended up being MX3FG - the FG means food grade - basically same as MX3 but certified safe/non-toxic etc. to use in food machinery/food industry etc.

So unless you track is in a 'demanding environment' I think INOX MX3 will be fine. Also I don;t know if there are any downsides to MX5, probably not if it's based on MX3 formulae but you never know...

Get both and try one on each lane a report back?
biggrin.png
thumbsup.gif


"INOX MX5 PLUS is the ultimate formula that takes the original INOX MX3FG and adds the high grade friction modifier Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) for an even higher, super-slick standard of lubrication in demanding environments. it's even NSF H1 registered for incidental food contact.

If you need to handle high speed, high loads, constant friction and extreme pressure, INOX MX5 PLUS with added PTFE is the ultimate lubricant to get the job done."
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V
portals999 said:
Well that's a good question!

Have a look at this link:

https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx5-plus-ptfe-lubricant/

I first got a bottle of INOX MX3 from 'Mr Modifier' here on forum few yrs ago, it lasts for ages but I bought another one when it got half empty, just in-case it disappeared (it didn't and you can now get it easily, even from Pendles In UK).

So second bottle I bought ended up being MX3FG - the FG means food grade - basically same as MX3 but certified safe/non-toxic etc. to use in food machinery/food industry etc.

So unless you track is in a 'demanding environment' I think INOX MX3 will be fine. Also I don;t know if there are any downsides to MX5, probably not if it's based on MX3 formulae but you never know...

Get both and try one on each lane a report back?
biggrin.png
thumbsup.gif


"INOX MX5 PLUS is the ultimate formula that takes the original INOX MX3FG and adds the high grade friction modifier Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) for an even higher, super-slick standard of lubrication in demanding environments. it's even NSF H1 registered for incidental food contact.

If you need to handle high speed, high loads, constant friction and extreme pressure, INOX MX5 PLUS with added PTFE is the ultimate lubricant to get the job done."
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I will get the 5 and try it. I just don't want to get multiple products and I can see that the MX5 will be much more effective for what I need for everything else.
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RikoRocket
dont forget that PTFE is the stuff you find around wires. It is a brilliant insulator....
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Billy_Cart
2
Hi Vini,

Yep I have used INOX MX5 or INOX Plus years ago, here is a post from 2011.

https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49969&p=624717

I bought a can and used it to see if I could notice any difference from the MX3 can, from memory I couldn't discern any real difference in the end after using the whole can I switched back to MX3.

If anything I think MX3 was better, certainly MX5 didn't stand out as any significant difference and didn't negatively impact the track.

Paint Fluid Plastic bottle Bottle Automotive tire

Bottle Liquid Tin Fluid Aluminum can

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RichD
I have been using Inox MX3 for a long time, when I first started using it the product was hard to find but I got some via Amazon. Now I would probably order it from Slot Car Corner. MX3 is mostly lanolin and is not toxic. Inox seems to improve electrical conductivity and reduce corrosion on your track rail or braid. When used on a cars' braids it also reduces friction, so the car will be a little faster, at least for a half dozen laps. I do not use Inox as a lubricant, for that I use Superlube, which is a synthetic oil with micronized Teflon suspended in it. I have never tried Inox MX5.
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S
portals999 said:
Well that's a good question!

Have a look at this link:
https://www.inoxmx.com/products/mx5-plus-ptfe-lubricant/

I first got a bottle of INOX MX3 from 'Mr Modifier' here on forum few yrs ago, it lasts for ages but I bought another one when it got half empty, just in-case it disappeared (it didn't and you can now get it easily, even from Pendles In UK).

So second bottle I bought ended up being MX3FG - the FG means food grade - basically same as MX3 but certified safe/non-toxic etc. to use in food machinery/food industry etc.

So unless you track is in a 'demanding environment' I think INOX MX3 will be fine. Also I don;t know if there are any downsides to MX5, probably not if it's based on MX3 formulae but you never know...

Get both and try one on each lane a report back? :D :thumbsup:

"INOX MX5 PLUS is the ultimate formula that takes the original INOX MX3FG and adds the high grade friction modifier Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) for an even higher, super-slick standard of lubrication in demanding environments. it's even NSF H1 registered for incidental food contact.[/size]
If you need to handle high speed, high loads, constant friction and extreme pressure, INOX MX5 PLUS with added PTFE is the ultimate lubricant to get the job done."
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That's all very well but does it smell as good? (-;
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Stalyoni78
I got some inox mx5 today and sprayed all the rails of our track today. Let it sit for a few mins then whiped off the excess. I will give it another good whipe down soon and have a run on the track. I did have the option to buy the mx3 but while I was at the shop I decided to go with the mx5. Might spray the old track I picked up last week and restored as well in morning. Had to use steel wool to bring it back to life
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GRUNZ
Once you start using steel wool on your track, it will accelerate the process of getting rusty.
In this case, having a thin layer of MX3 on the rails should help in reducing the rust formation.
My way to go to keep the rails clean is to run pace cars (one per lane) on the track for a while using a dab of MX3 on the braids.
This only if I do not use the track for a while.
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Stalyoni78
I noticed dad has an old can of mx3 in the garage. I might do a test between the mx3 and mx5 myself.

Btw what's the best way to lube the rails with the mx3 or mx5? Thanks
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RichD
Some tracks have plated rails, if you use a harsh abrasive on those you will remove the plating and the rails may corrode quickly. Scalextric rails are plated, Carrera uses plain stainless steel rails. Using something like sandpaper on the rails, even if they are stainless steel, will leave scratches witch would promote faster corrosion.
Since MX5 contains Teflon and Teflon is an insulator why would you want to put an insulator on your track rails? I would use MX3 on the track rails and MX5 as a lubricant only.
It is never a good thing to leave your track unused for long periods of time. It helps a lot to run a few hundred laps in each lane at least once a week. If you put MX3 on the car's braids that will get tracked all the way around eventually without it getting on the track surface.
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MrFlippant
Putting it on the braids and running a while will usually do a decent job, but this is how I recommended doing it as a first application method to make sure the entire track is treated fairly evenly.

MrFlippant said:
INOX APPLICATOR

Rather than cotton swabs or paper towels or shop rags, I came up with a simple and inexpensive way to apply INOX (or any other rail cleaner/treatment) accurately and with minimal mess beyond the rails. All you need is a spare guide blade or two (I have loads of them because a bag comes with every solder-in chip and I only have a couple cars that use this type), some Moleskin (adhesive backed cotton weave or felt) and your trusty bottle of INOX.


Cut your moleskin into strips about as wide as the rails on your track, which should be about the same as the braid area on the guide blade. Note that moleskin is tricky to cut in a straight line, so watch out as you cut it!


Remove the braids from the guide and apply a short length of moleskin to the bottom as if it were braid. The strip should be long enough to wrap around both the front and back end of the guide.


The finished applicator should look something like this. The moleskin doesn't need to cover the top of the guide like I did, though.



Apply a few drops of INOX to each side of your applicator.


Place the guide in the slot on your track and drag it back and forth along your track to ensure good coverage. You will probably need to re-apply INOX to the applicator a few times. Also, the applicator will probably get very dirty, but don't worry about it too much. You only need to apply the INOX at this point.


When you have finished applying INOX to your whole track, get some rags or paper towels to wipe up all the excess both from the rails, and from any spots where it might have gone beyond the rails and onto your track. Whatever you use, it WILL get really dirty, so don't be surprised by big black spots all over it. Personally, I prefer paper towels, just be careful with plastic track not to let it snag on joins and leave bits behind.

If you have a spare car with no motor or something, you could also put the INOX applicator into that and push it around with a functioning car, which would be great for tough to reach spots on certain layouts. I recommend applying by hand when possible, though, to better control the amount being applied so that it's nice and even throughout.

Enjoy!
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beardy56
Another option would be to do it in a similar way to the railway people do it. use an old chassis and fit you strongest magnet and install the pad under the chassis so it's rubbing on the rails. You could even make a hole in the chassis so you can top up the Inox from above or even make a small drip tank.

If the track is really black, not rust, I would use something like Track Magic first, takes a lot of elbow grease but well worth it.
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Stalyoni78
Yeah I saw a guy on YouTube just use an old guide with some braid on it and just apply some to the braids and run it around the track by hand.
My track is fine now and ready for my ginetta g60 c4033 car that will be arriving tomorrow morning. I can't wait. Its gonna be legit
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