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· DT
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Pits - well I though about this long and hard. I wanted a pits so I could park some cars and give my layout a racing feel. As the layout's a scale model of reality, I decided to add some pits, but to fit them in without blocking any view of the track and thereby hindering the racing. Some buildings are just too big and although those Carrera ones look cool, I think that many a modeller is going to have trouble fitting them on the table.

So I went about designing and building my own. I've recently been using compressed foam and quite like how easily it is to cut and work with. It glues well using a special solvent free glue used to fix polystyrene cornices to ceilings.

I looked around for a design and stuck upon Le Mans 1976. The pits were not the garages as we know today, but were not the work rooms of the 60's with cars being worked on outside the pit wall.

This is what I was after (Note the Greenwood "Spirit of Le Mans" Corvette):


I figured that the little 1:32 men would be around 5.5 cm high and I'd want them to look OK in and around the building. Although the building is not to true scale, they fit. The cars fit in the garages quite well too.

Here is my progress, about 5 hours work from design to what you see.

If you want to do something similar, here is a link to the plan


The design sketched out in my workbook:


Some foam cross-sections cut out and roughly assemble to see how it looks:


Starting to glue up the structure:


Quite strong in terms of structural strength:


To see what it looks like on the track:


Aging, it seems to look fine:
 

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wow - yes indeed - this will be a very nice resource indeed - you have to remember that some of us (me especially) have two left hands and ten thumbs - this is quite a problem when being right handed...


You are really doing nicely.

//peter
 

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Lotus
Nuro has posted several items on his track, but the best way to see all that he has done is to look in SF Resources
Cologne Raceway - Ongoing Developments
I think the whole story, to date, is there and a very comprehensive story it is too!

I would recommend anyone who hasn't already, to take a sightseeing tour through our resources - there is an ENORMOUS amount of beautifully illustrated information there, in addition to what you see on the forum pages.

SlotForum Resources

SF Resources are where Nuro And Swiss Racer, with the help of others, put in a huge design and development effort and the results are truly a tremendous credit to their artistic talent and sheer hard work.
 

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Very Nice Nuro.

On the gravel traps there...have you had any problems with the ballast coming up? I did a similar thing but rather than go the distance on a large area like that, I was more interested in just worn out shoulders.

I am in the Washington DC area here in the states. A regional SCCA track not too far from here in West Virginia is Summit Point Speedway (http://www.summitpoint-raceway.com/). Growing up, my brother and I used to go all the time.

My memory served as an idea of what I wanted my track to look like.



When it came to the shoulders, I used a lot of Woodland Scenics Earth with varying sizes of the Ballast laid over top of it to bring the shoulders up to track level.

Then I soaked it heavily with Elmers Carpenter Yellow glue thinned out to the consistency of milk. This made the ballast/earth mixture settle and added more if needed to raise it up. Then I used an eye dropper filled with straight Yellow Glue over the ballast mixture. With the ballast already being wet from the milky glue, this allowed the capillary action to draw the unthinned glue into it. I let it setup about 15 minutes then repeated with the full strength glue again and repeated this process over and over again about 6 times. Don't worry, the glue stayed yellow until it dried, then it dries clear but has a stonger bond than normal white glue does (hence the reason Carpenters use it!)

My goal here was to make sure the ballast was well covered with glue so it did not come up. Some of the ballast could have gotten wedged into the slot or gone into the cars really fouling up your day.

Here's the end result and I am proud to say that you can rub your finger over this (even vigorously) and the ballast does not come up. I don't know if you have a problem with it coming up but if you do, this method works!







Glue was not totally dry in this shot of the rocky hill. Once it did though, it can't be seen!
 

· DT
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My gravel is stuck down quite well, but a spinning car will always throw up a little. I just make sure that it's brushed off the track.

I like your detail. If you go down to this level, you'll find that the layout never finishes, but evolves as you add and replace existing scenery.
 

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What a bunch of great pics in this thread - wonderful stuff!
A similar process from my model train days was to mix powdered glue (Cascamite in my case) with the ballast, lay it completely dry to the chosen shape and thickness and then fine mist spray with plain water. This worked pretty well too.

An interesting, slightly obscure detail was that using scale size ballast always made the particles look too small in 'N' gauge and that it always looked better if the particles were 2 to 4 times scale size. If memory serves, N gauge is 1:160 or so. I'm not sure if this same optical effect still happens at 1:32 scale. Luckily, being in the contruction business, I am in a position to obtain any size aggregate I want - just grab a shovelful of crushed rock dust or sand from a stockpile and throw it on a machine which will sieve it using any sieves I choose!
One drawback, as already mentioned - real sand and stone are extremely tough on paintwork in crashes!
 

· DT
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
QUOTE (vfr750 @ 1 Mar 2004, 05:35 PM)Looks great but doesn't the gravel ruin your paintwork




John
Seen no damage yet. I don't get that many wipeouts on the sand traps. The black spots are:

1. The U-bend on the elevated section after going up. This catches some out (including the Clallenger)

2. The bends just before and after the second flyover at the end of the elevated section.
 

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QUOTE My gravel is stuck down quite well, but a spinning car will always throw up a little. I just make sure that it's brushed off the track.

Try what I mentioned and you will not have a problem. Does NOT affect the realistic look either.

QUOTE Looks great but doesn't the gravel ruin your paintwork

Not a bit. The way I glued it down is like putting a clearcoat on a paintjob. It only looks like rough jagged rock but in reality, although not smooth as glass, it does offer some cushioning, as it were.
 

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Ive been looking through some of the old topics on here and I came across this superb pit lane building..

QUOTE (Nuro @ 29 Feb 2004, 00:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I finished off the 'tarmac' in the pits and secured the building to the base. It can be removed quite easily.







 

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QUOTE (NIK B @ 21 Nov 2013, 12:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>As per the title, I've been snooping around here for a couple of years now, & finally plucked up the courage to make my first post. I have managed to build my first permanent track using Scaley Sport Track. It resides in our conservatory which measures 17' x 10' & pretty much fills it. I have to say that most of it would not have been possible without all the helpful info harvested from the craftsmen & women that frequent the forum, & whose ideas I have shamelessly "copied". The layout is mostly sceniced, although it's not finished yet (If a track is ever finished?) I'll try & post a couple of pictures to give an idea of what I'm trying to create as & when I can work out how to.

The main reason for posting is to convey my gratitude for the inspiration you guys have given me.

Thank you all !

Nik B

I was honest it about MJE.


NIK B.
 
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