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Alan Tadd
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4,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tend to build my cars in three's. That is I work on three project cars at a time.

I always seem to either be waiting for parts to arrive, paint to dry or adhesive to set, so it makes sense to put one car aside to work on another one.

I actually started work on this particular conversion over a year ago and I got as far as cutting out a PCB chassis, but I wasn't really satisfied with it.

When the MOTOGP motor came out it offered the opportunity to equip the car with a motor that didn't encroach too much into the limited cockpit space available. So I started again.......................

The Matchbox kit is very good and an excellent choice for anyone building one of these old cars for the first time. The main reason being that the Wings, running Boards and main chassis rails are a one piece moulding, which means that the chassis can be made up and checked for fit before any actual bodywork assembly takes place.

I built a brass and PcB rail chassis with separate front axle mounting. These are very easy to build and fit neatly into the available space. I could easily have constructed the chassis in a "T" shape to accommodate a standard Mabucci motor, but decided to stick with the MOTOGP, because of compatibility with other cars of this period I have and it's space saving size.

Here is the finished chassis fitted to the car :-



The Chassis mounts onto Plastistrut posts which are fixed to the Bodywork with two part Epoxy Resin. The front mounting screw has a spring washer between the chassis and the post which allows the front of the chassis to flex and act as a large "droparm" which then follows any unevenness of the track. For this type of chassis it is essential that the front wheels do not touch the track or it will tend to affect performance. Tripod cars usually handle better than cars with all four wheels touching the track. It really depends on chassis design, track surface etc.



This is the finished car, which as you can see is finished in a tasteful shade of blue, which is meant to represent Air Force Blue. I had more trouble with the paint I used on this car than with any other part. All entirely my fault.

I found some spray cans in my local Halfords store, Plasticote Fast Dry Enamel, and loved the colour. In truth this paint took seven days to dry between coats. I would not like to hazard a guess how long their ordinary enamel takes to dry!.



This view from the rear of the car shows the cockpit area. I constructed the false floor and rear bulkhead from clear acrylic material that comes with new shirts when you buy them. Don't throw anything away!. The driver is the "co-pilot" from the Carrera Aston, but he has had drastic surgery preformed with a Dremmel, i.e shortened arms and most of his lower torso removed. He looks a little stunted so I may have gone a little overboard with the cutting and slicing.



The front view shows the wonderful grille and light "scaffolding" typical of cars of this period. I used a different technique to my Alfa on this grille to add more depth to it. I added a small amount of thinner to the Matt Black paint and applied it as a wash over the whole grille area. I them wiped off the excess with a cloth and allowed to dry. I think it looks much better than an all chrome grill.



Well that's about it, a good fun car to build and I look forward to building others cars in this series.

Regards

Alan
 

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Graham Windle
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4,442 Posts
alan your a one man production line these days .
any way re the plasticote Ive had the same problem my tastful pink calibre was sprayed with the same stuff and took ages to dry but i was happy with the end result,I used to get a paint called hycote which I cant find now this was great and dryed fast and left a great finish
 

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2,070 Posts
Gosh, you're knocking them out these days Alan! Great looking model as always


I particularly like the last picture. Very atmospheric. It just needs one of mrs. h's Irish pasty stands in the background to finish it off - unless that's Bernie driving of course
 

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Senior Slot Car Mechanic
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2,230 Posts
Yes,very nice as usuall.Wish I had some time to finish off a few projects.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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3,652 Posts
Looks great, Alan!


You're right about the grille. That wash adds a great deal, indeed!

at the Harry Porsche sign! But yes.... he has gone strangely quiet...


As for the Plasticote, maybe it's a different paint there, but I've used it many times (not on models though) and had great results with it, and found it dried quite quickly and was extremely durable. I won't mention that I sprayed my entire 1:1 F4 bodywork with it (3-colour scheme) and it looked great!
Ooops... just mentioned it....
...hey.... I was on a budget.... besides, it came out great!
 

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Administrator
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4,887 Posts
Very nice Alan and a superb paint job despite the difficulties.

Graham - I still find that smaller motor factors stock the Hycote sprays.

David
 

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Graham Windle
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4,442 Posts
thanks David I just remembered I found some of their double acrylic primer at wilikinsons in Lancaster a couple of months ago but no colours.
 

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4,593 Posts
Very pretty, BJ!
I think Bernie is old enough to have driven that Jag from new. At least he didn't need a roll-bar.
Are those old Matchbox kits easy to find? I'd love to have ago myself now.
I love the 'Cucaracha' style iso-fulcrum chassis!
 

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Lenny Broke
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318 Posts
morning all
Seeing as you went to all that trouble you could have at least given little Bernie a cushion to sit on. I saw an old guy the other week driving a on old Dodge Phoenix in peek hour in a similar driving position looking out through the .inside the steering wheel rim.
Most diconcerting
Lenny
 

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Premium Member
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1,342 Posts
hi, Alan
great looking car!! I was particularly interested in finally seeing the MotoGP motor you've been excited about. I recently cannabalized an electric toothbrush to use the little thing for a smaller kitbash myself. As far as I can tell, it seems to be about the same thing. I continue to be surprised at the many power options that are showing up. 1/32 is really coming into it's own

loved the blue paint btw...I have to go looking for Matchbox on ebay...

regards
John
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the comments Guys.

Don't get me wrong about the Plasticote paint, it really gives a good finish and a very deep shine. The pictures were taken before I applied the Klear protective coats. My only problem with it is the drying time involved.

Howmet this link will take you to the 1/32nd kits for sale on Ebay :-

Link to 1/32nd Scale Kits

While you are there take a look at the 1/24th Scale stuff and see what we are missing out on!....Come on kit Manufacturers wake up we need more 1/32nd kits.

I'm investigating the market for cushions for Bernie to sit on. I Understand Mrs H may be able to assist here with some custom Knitted ones. Alternatively perhaps a tasty pasty would do!.

Regards

Alan
 

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Phil Smith
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4,534 Posts
I used to convert a lot of these Marchbox kit s a few years ago, I always used these 1/43 Polistil chassis



You can usually pick up the Polistil cars cheaply at toy fairs.
 

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I wouldn't want to see ANYONE sitting on one of Mrs H's pasties- not even Mr Ecclestone. There are some Sumatran tribes who still believe they cause incurable piles.

And by the way- it does seem most unfair that the devil (Mr 1/24) has all the best kits. How did it come about that us slot racers ended up in 1/32, and everyone else boogies along in 1/18, 1/24,or 1/43? It's tough even to find a castable die-cast to bootleg.
 

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2,509 Posts
If anybody can find Hycote then shout out! My local Wilkinsons used to stock a wide and wonderful range of obscure car colours,some of which stuck to lexan a treat. They only seem to stock the primers now though.

Coop
 

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545 Posts
Alan,

Wonderful job on the Jag! I'm sure this has been discussed in detail elsewhere but I missed it. Just what is PCB and is there any info on how to use it in chassis building?

Jay
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,030 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Jay

PCB is Printed Circuit board. The stuff you can use in Computers for cards (or used to) and to create electrical circuits. It is either copper coated on one side or both sides.

It is very cheap and very strong. Ideal for flat chassis. It is also very easy to cut with a Dremmel and you can shape it very easily. It is much easier to shape and drill than brass which is why I use it for axle support brackets and small sections of chassis.

I get mine through on-line store Maplins, but I'm sure most electronics stores will sell it. I buy ten sheets at a time of single sided board at approx. £0.75 per sheet. A sheet is about 6" x 4"..

For chassis information the best places to look are Graph1 site and Chris Brigg's site, both have excellent "how to do" articles.

Graham's Website

Chris's website

Regards

Alan
 
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