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Jaguar SS 100

3207 Views 15 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  BEEJAY7
I tend to build my cars in three's. That is I work on three project cars at a time.

I always seem to either be waiting for parts to arrive, paint to dry or adhesive to set, so it makes sense to put one car aside to work on another one.

I actually started work on this particular conversion over a year ago and I got as far as cutting out a PCB chassis, but I wasn't really satisfied with it.

When the MOTOGP motor came out it offered the opportunity to equip the car with a motor that didn't encroach too much into the limited cockpit space available. So I started again.......................

The Matchbox kit is very good and an excellent choice for anyone building one of these old cars for the first time. The main reason being that the Wings, running Boards and main chassis rails are a one piece moulding, which means that the chassis can be made up and checked for fit before any actual bodywork assembly takes place.

I built a brass and PcB rail chassis with separate front axle mounting. These are very easy to build and fit neatly into the available space. I could easily have constructed the chassis in a "T" shape to accommodate a standard Mabucci motor, but decided to stick with the MOTOGP, because of compatibility with other cars of this period I have and it's space saving size.

Here is the finished chassis fitted to the car :-

The Chassis mounts onto Plastistrut posts which are fixed to the Bodywork with two part Epoxy Resin. The front mounting screw has a spring washer between the chassis and the post which allows the front of the chassis to flex and act as a large "droparm" which then follows any unevenness of the track. For this type of chassis it is essential that the front wheels do not touch the track or it will tend to affect performance. Tripod cars usually handle better than cars with all four wheels touching the track. It really depends on chassis design, track surface etc.

This is the finished car, which as you can see is finished in a tasteful shade of blue, which is meant to represent Air Force Blue. I had more trouble with the paint I used on this car than with any other part. All entirely my fault.

I found some spray cans in my local Halfords store, Plasticote Fast Dry Enamel, and loved the colour. In truth this paint took seven days to dry between coats. I would not like to hazard a guess how long their ordinary enamel takes to dry!.

This view from the rear of the car shows the cockpit area. I constructed the false floor and rear bulkhead from clear acrylic material that comes with new shirts when you buy them. Don't throw anything away!. The driver is the "co-pilot" from the Carrera Aston, but he has had drastic surgery preformed with a Dremmel, i.e shortened arms and most of his lower torso removed. He looks a little stunted so I may have gone a little overboard with the cutting and slicing.

The front view shows the wonderful grille and light "scaffolding" typical of cars of this period. I used a different technique to my Alfa on this grille to add more depth to it. I added a small amount of thinner to the Matt Black paint and applied it as a wash over the whole grille area. I them wiped off the excess with a cloth and allowed to dry. I think it looks much better than an all chrome grill.

Well that's about it, a good fun car to build and I look forward to building others cars in this series.


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Thanks for the comments Guys.

Don't get me wrong about the Plasticote paint, it really gives a good finish and a very deep shine. The pictures were taken before I applied the Klear protective coats. My only problem with it is the drying time involved.

Howmet this link will take you to the 1/32nd kits for sale on Ebay :-

Link to 1/32nd Scale Kits

While you are there take a look at the 1/24th Scale stuff and see what we are missing out on!....Come on kit Manufacturers wake up we need more 1/32nd kits.

I'm investigating the market for cushions for Bernie to sit on. I Understand Mrs H may be able to assist here with some custom Knitted ones. Alternatively perhaps a tasty pasty would do!.


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PCB is Printed Circuit board. The stuff you can use in Computers for cards (or used to) and to create electrical circuits. It is either copper coated on one side or both sides.

It is very cheap and very strong. Ideal for flat chassis. It is also very easy to cut with a Dremmel and you can shape it very easily. It is much easier to shape and drill than brass which is why I use it for axle support brackets and small sections of chassis.

I get mine through on-line store Maplins, but I'm sure most electronics stores will sell it. I buy ten sheets at a time of single sided board at approx. £0.75 per sheet. A sheet is about 6" x 4"..

For chassis information the best places to look are Graph1 site and Chris Brigg's site, both have excellent "how to do" articles.

Graham's Website

Chris's website


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