[andre acker]

Hi,

I am building some motors mixing the ProSlot mini euro endbell, a rewind Johnson armature and the Johnson can and magnets.

The option for the Johnson can is due to its dimensions, smaller than ProSlot, Falcon, Scaleauto etc..

I need to get some 4 or 5 Johnson cans (with magnets), they must be in perfect shape.

Does anyone have spare Johnson motors or cans (with magnets) to sell ?

Best regards.

André Acker.

 

[Russell Sheldon]

Hi André,

I would recommend that you use SCX magnets, rather than the original Johnson or Mabuchi magnets. You will also find that the Pro Slot endbell is a bit too high for the Johnson can; a turned-down Mura B endbell will be a better fit.

Please PM your mailing address to me and I will send you some SCX magnets and a Mura B endbell to play with.

Kind regards,

Russell

 

[superhornets]

Hi Andre
i think phil smith is your man for the motors ,he,s probably got thousands of them
I seem to remember Andy brown searle (ABSlot) building up a very fast 13uo using falcon magnets so it may be worth contacting him to see what bits he used

cheers tony

 

[stoner]

a parma S16D arm drops straight in. john

 

[andre acker]

Thank you, Tony, Russell and John !

Russell, I have these parts, so I will have a try.
Thanks for the ideas and for you kind offering !

Tony, I will contact Phil, thanks !

John, I think it will be too much horsepower for these little f1 cars (Brabham bt44 and McLaren m23).
The rewinding is to get a smoother motor (and to be proud to say, "this is MY motor !").

Cheers !

André Acker.

 

[stoner]

andre, from my little black book. johnson motor, 120t of 36g wire and 5 degrees advance, gives good spread of torque, reasonable brakes and 35-40000rpm. if you shim the standard or scx magnets reducing the air gap, the motor runs cooler, gains torque and looses some rpm but gives better brakes and a smoother torque band. hope this helps. john

 

[dgersh]

Interesting topic, thanks guys. John, I assume that 36g is British awg, not American...

Connections must have been slow last night or you were impatient, because I deleted two duplicate posts...

Carry on Slotting!

Don

 

[scaleslotcars]

This is a Mabuchi 13UO but same thing really.

MRRC endbell , 16D magnets (probably Riko MK1 actually) and who know what arm, goes well though!

BTW plenty of standard 111's in stock and 13UO's if you prefer.

 

[superhornets]

Hi Don
AWG stands for american wire gauge
The british equivalent is SWG or standard wire gauge
As you almost certainly know they are different I think AWG is thinner than SWG
somehere in a model cars mag azine there was a comparison chart

Cheers tony

 

[andre acker]

Thanks to all of you helping me about this prototype.

I do not like "suspense" films, so I inform that the motors will be installed in a metal chassis (still to be done) under a Martini Brabham bt44 body (Scalex France, absolutely beautiful body, with lots of details and a correct wheelbase) and a Betta / Classic Yardley McLaren m23 glass fibre body.

The idea is to run them at the Presto Park event, if they are complete until there and if I can get a reasonable priced air ticket.

So, I am not looking for much power, instead I need a well balanced, quite and easy to drive motor.

Unfortunately, Indycals will not make decals in the next few weeks, so decoration will get later.

Phil,

How much for each Johnson ?
I will be in London in May (from 13th to 16th), so you can post the pack to my aunt address there.

Cheers !

André Acker.

 

[stoner]

i think awg stands for actual wire gauge and is thicker than the equivilant english swg. so 30 awg is thicker than 30swg. john

 

[scaleslotcars]

QUOTE I will be in London in May (from 13th to 16th)

Will you be at the N.London D3 event Andre? I'll be there so if you are I can bring them along (pm sent re price etc btw)

 

[gasowder]

QUOTE (stoner @ 9 Apr 2012, 09:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>i think awg stands for actual wire gauge and is thicker than the equivilant english swg. so 30 awg is thicker than 30swg. john
Tony is correct, it's American wire gauge & it's thinner than the equivalent swg number, see the attached chart.
http://www.simetric.co.uk/siwire.htm
Eddie

 

[stoner]

apologies allround, not only did i get the name wrong but the gauges arse about face. got to reprogram the brain now, thinking in reverse all these years. thats the letdown of thinking you know it all. lots of humble pie, john

 

[andre acker]

I do not think so, Phil, but there is always a slight possibility ...

André Acker.

 

[Abarth Mike]

Can I bump this thread?

What can size is Johnson? C-Can? Less height than a FC-130 S can Less than a FK- 180 neither of those magnets will fit

What magnets will fit? It all seems very confusing. ABSlot says I can use Hawk neo magnets. As far as I can make out Hawk is Fk-130? But I have an old Fk-130 and the magnets are not the same as the 13U0. 13UO are notched.

There are many motor magnets out there but if I change magnets I suspect i will be to change the arm to achieve "balance" That is OK.

I don't want a screamer, ProSport PS 4000 specs would be fine

just that I have at least one old Johnson that runs hot because of weak magnets. I could simply replace it with FC-130 using two plastic widgets but where is the fun in that? I would like to play.

 

[Mick Kerr]

Hi Mike,
The simplest solution is to use SCX magnets.
They don't have the notch but if you flatten the tabs on the can they should slip right in.
Fix them with epoxy resin (araldite precision is best) or one of the special magnet glues from the like of Proslot.
Use the armature, wrapped with a couple of layers of masking tape and assembled into the can, to set the air gap equal either side.
This should solve your heating problem.
100 turns of 36awg was always a common rewind for these motors.
Don't use too 'hot' an armature or the endbell will melt.
Hope that helps.
Cheers.
Mick.

 

[stoner]

Also JB WELD does a marine grade epoxy thats high temp. but it is the quick set variety, so every thing should be laid out to go. does anyone know of a retarder to thin and slow any epoxy,s setting time john

 

[stoner]

just a thought on magnets. the newer hawk handout motors have have polymer matrix neo magnet. No idea what they, l fit, but its worth saving the magnets when you bin the motor. john

 

[Abarth Mike]

QUOTE (Mick Kerr @ 16 Jul 2012, 15:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Mike,
The simplest solution is to use SCX magnets.
They don't have the notch but if you flatten the tabs on the can they should slip right in.
Fix them with epoxy resin (araldite precision is best) or one of the special magnet glues from the like of Proslot.
Use the armature, wrapped with a couple of layers of masking tape and assembled into the can, to set the air gap equal either side.
This should solve your heating problem.
100 turns of 36awg was always a common rewind for these motors.
Don't use too 'hot' an armature or the endbell will melt.
Hope that helps.
Cheers.
Mick.

OK I'll line all my magnets up and have a look. Maybe SCX ones are thicker. I was hoping to either keep the stock armature or buy one ready wound. I know I said I'd like to play but baby steps first.

QUOTE (stoner @ 16 Jul 2012, 15:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>does anyone know of a retarder

That would be me.