[GBMark]

Ok, I normally finish a model with an overspray of Humbrol matt or gloss varnish but I just took delivery of some decals from Patto's Place and in the instructions it is made very clear that the decals should only be covered with a water based acryllic finish.

I have done a search to find Tropi's recommendation of using Johnsons Klear but I have no experience with it.

Do I simply spray it on and leave to dry or does it require polishing ?

Do I need to mask windows, headlights etc, etc ?

Anything else I should know ?

Be grateful for any guidance

 

[BEEJAY7]

I've used many of Bruce's (Pattos) decals and they are very good.

After I have applied them I allow them to dry overnight and then apply Micro Satin with a brush directly to the decal. This protects it and you are then free to apply the final finish of your choice, Klear, Gloss, Matt or whatever.

Micro Satin is made by Microscale Industries in the US, and I buy mine from Grand Prix Models in the UK.

Regards

Alan

 

[alfa]

HI GBmark I have used Johnsons klear just brush it on letting exess drip off 4 to 5 coats and you get an exellent Finnish nice and smooth and it protects decals from tyre treatments

mark

 

[GBMark]

Thanks guys !

Alan, thanks for your tips, I now have the Micro-Satin on order from GPM (and seriously considered buying a £285 Ferrari 312B in the process. I think it would have been a big mistake, I really do need to stick to cheap plastic models for now ! )

Mark, thanks for your advice too, please just clarify one thing for me, is it ok to coat windscreens, headlight lenses..etc or should these be masked off before applying Johnsons Klear ?

Only other problem right now is that none of the shops round here sell it. There is a Safeway nearby so fingers crossed that they might have it.

Cheers...Mark.

 

[RichD]

Future is another product that works well, it is also made by S C Johnson. I just brush four coats of it on the car with about half an hour for drying between coats. Some people just dip a whole HO car in the stuff.

 

[Tropi]

As far as I could tell, Future and Klear are the same product under different retail names.
Future in USA and Klear in UK.
It would be handy if we knew if there were a mainland European trade name too, for completeness!

 

[Larry LS]

The clear floor waxes are fine on windows and headlight lenses etc. But keep it off open cockpit drivers, seats and dash instruments, tires or anything you want a flat dull finish on.

Funny to see a driver in a shiny new suit, and looking like he needs to powder his face or he has a shiny mustache.

 

[Fergy]

Although I haven't seen it, there apparently is an article in the March 2004 issue of Fine Scale Modeler about using clear floor finish on models, and gives product availability info for many countries around the world. FWIW

 

[GBMark]

Eventually found it in Asda but neither of the other two local Supermarkets, Somerfield and Safeway had it (local being North Warwickshire/Leicestershire border).

 

[Scatman]

Here's two cars I clear coated with Future. I just drop them in a jewel case with Future. I use a clothes hanger to pull them out. I let them drip and use a paper towel to suck any excess from the bottom of the car. Sorry about the quality of the pics. Didn't use the flash.

Scatman

 

[astro]

scatman - did you just do 1 'coat'? they look great.

For use with a brush - what do you clean the brushes with?

Final question - has anyone tried it on a vanquish JPS lotus, or a vanquish with gold paint? will it dissolve and smudge the gold, or will it be ok?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Scatman]

5 coats, no brush. I put a hanger through the window and dunk the car in the case that in comes in. Let it dry between coats, about an hour to make sure. I put my car in the oven and turn the light on. Keeps the dust away and the light warms the oven up. Speeds the drying time. I use several coats for racing. Many wrecks. I might spary tamiya clear to make it bullet proof.