Just started the build

4152 Views 129 Replies 13 Participants Last post by OCJoeR, 14 h ago

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · 1 mo ago

I've finally been able to start putting something together. I'm going to go with my 2 lane Scalextric Classic track on top of an 1/2" MDF table as a start. I'm going to be building three 4' x 8' tables with folding legs that can be set up and taken down and stored in the garage. I'm going to use 1" x 4" for the frame and legs. The total length of track will be about 60 - 65 feet. I've ordered 2 of these power supplies, ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M9N73YQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ANW9CH00EEXDH&psc=1 ), one for each lane. I think if I decide later to go with a 4 lane routed track these will be enough to power 2 lanes each. I'm guessing I'll need about 6 power taps placed around the track to keep the power up around the track. I have the diagram from [email protected] as a guide. If I'm understanding it correctly I'll need a terminal block with a pair of terminals for each controller on one side. I'm going to use an 8 post block in case I go with a 4 lane track later. On the other side I will be running wires to the various power taps around the track from the posts opposite each controller post. Since the track needs to be taken apart I'm going to use plugs where the track separates to make things a little easier rather than use spades on the terminals.

Right now I'm cleaning the track up to get the best continuity possible, it's been sitting for a while and the tops of the metal have a lot of black coating. It's coming off pretty easy with one of those drywall sanding pads and a little brake cleaner. I've been thinking about soldering pieces of wire between each track piece for better continuity. I figure it's going to be tedious but what the hell, I'm an old retired guy now.

I haven't figured out how to put the track onto the tables once they're wired together. Maybe do 5 piece sections at a time.

Which leads me to my next question. I've read several threads regarding attaching the track to the MDF. It looks like hot glue is one means. I've also seen "track clips" that are "Z" shaped brackets that look like they fit over the track and then are screwed into the table, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. I don't want to drill holes into the track so that's out. There are those pieces that go across the bottom of the rails but I tried brad nails in them and the guide hits them so that's not going to work.

Anyway I'll try and post photos as the work progresses.

Thanks for all the help,
Joe

See less See more

1 - 20 of 130 Posts

rastas

· #2 · 1 mo ago

There's a track fixing system that uses the round parts under the track were you can put support dowels too hold the track of the table . Sorry but I can't remember what it was called but if you have a look through the 3d print treads you will find it ! Mr flippant can make them for you if you don't have a 3d printer I haven't tried them myself but what has been said about them is they work well ! One to keep in mind is plastic track does expand and contract with temperature fluctuations so you have to fix it but still have a little bit of movement!
Cheers,
John.

MrFlippant

· #3 · 1 mo ago

It's called Lex-Lox by Traxpert. It was designed for Sport track, so I don't know how well it works with Classic.

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #4 · 1 mo ago

I'm in Southern California so while it doesn't get that cold it does get hot and if the tables/track is going to be stored in the garage I'm figuring that the track is going to expand so hot glue doesn't seem to be a good idea. Those track "clips" looked like a good idea since you can screw them down to the table and make them tight enough to hold the track down but since they wouldn't be secured to the track the track could move. Problem is every place I looked shows "NOT IN STOCK". They look pretty simple so I may be able to use my brake to make my own. If I took a 12" piece of stock and made the 2 bends and then cut it into 1" pieces that might work.

Cdub

· #5 · 1 mo ago

I'd think hard about the table construction. 4x8 1/2" mdf tables are going to be very heavy and very awkward to move around.

I'd go down to 1/4" mdf or even something thinner and plywood.

I'd also consider making smaller tables (but a couple more of them )

MrFlippant

· #6 · 1 mo ago

I agree. MDF is great for a routed track, but entirely too heavy and unnecessary as a baseboard for plastic track. I'm all about the OSB, 'cus it's cheap and light, and gets covered up with other stuff anyway, so appearance is unimportant.

Reactions: 1

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #7 · 1 mo ago

I've got 3 sheets of 3/8" left over from another project. Maybe I'll grab one of those and see how difficult it is to move it. My plan for storing the tables was to collapse one set of legs and lower that side to the ground and then lift up on the other end and collapse those legs and then stand it up against the wall. I can keep the 1/2" stuff for a routed track later I guess. If the 3/8 is too heavy I guess I could pick up some 1/2" OSB. HD has it for $15.85 a sheet.

Reactions: 1

rastas

· #8 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

2

I just had a look at some of the old classic track I have and it's got C type mouldings under the track which I presume are for some sort of tie down setup ! That a 10mm head screw fits nice and tight that would hold down the track . By the looks of it you would screw the screw in all the way leaving the head proud 2mm then just push the track down on it fermly and that should hold it down!
It will be easy to find where to put the screw buy cutting a screw short and grinding a point on it place in the track connect up the track and push down firmly to Mark the position! There seems to be about 0.8mm between the rails and the head of the screw it shouldn't be a problem but you can always put thin round of plastic between them just to make sure that nothing shorts out.
Cheers,
John.

Automotive tire Hood Road surface Grey Wood

Automotive tire Road surface Water Wood Grey

See less See more

crustypop

· #9 · 1 mo ago

OCJoeR said:
I've got 3 sheets of 3/8" left over from another project. Maybe I'll grab one of those and see how difficult it is to move it. My plan for storing the tables was to collapse one set of legs and lower that side to the ground and then lift up on the other end and collapse those legs and then stand it up against the wall. I can keep the 1/2" stuff for a routed track later I guess. If the 3/8 is too heavy I guess I could pick up some 1/2" OSB. HD has it for $15.85 a sheet.

1/4 inch obs is all you need

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #10 · 1 mo ago

Hi Rastas,

I saw those on the bottom of all the tracks. There are 2 on each track and they face the opposite direction. I tried several size and types of screws, flathead, button head etc., but the problem is there is no groove inside the hole so the screw comes right out with the slightest pressure. I may try putting a large head one in there and heating it up to see if I can melt a groove in it to hold the screw. I also did a test to see if it shorted out the track and the flathead screws didn't.

I was looking at the track this morning and thinking I might try shooting brad nails into the little tabs at the end of each track once it is all in place. If I adjust the pressure on the gun I should be able to shoot them between the tracks and catch those tabs but not go through the tabs. That will give me a project to test out today, and a break from cleaning the track.

Joe

Reactions: 1

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #11 · 1 mo ago

Morning Crusty,

3/8" is the thinnest my Home Depot carries, well .354 actually. I'll check out Lowes and some of the lumber supply shops and see if anyone has 1/4". I think I may have one piece of 1/4" MDF sitting on the sheet goods cart in the shop. I'll check it out. Not sure if that will hold any of the things I'm thinking about using to hold the track down to it.

Joe

Reactions: 1

rastas

· #12 · 1 mo ago

These screws I have are pretty well a standard type we get here in Australia, and fit very well. I can pick the track up by the screw and wave it about and it doesn't want to let go, with 2 of these types of screws in the 1 track I'm sure it will be strong enough to hold down the track with 2 in each peace of track. I'll find a peace of wood and try again with some track and see if it stays in place as an experiment!
I'm going to give all of my classic track to my brother,so he can get a track up and running, he'll have to hold it down as well so it can be moved around and storage. The original classic track is soft and it will form it's own grove on the screw once put in position!
Cheers,
John.

Reactions: 1

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #13 · 1 mo ago

rastas said:
These screws I have are pretty well a standard type we get here in Australia, and fit very well. I can pick the track up by the screw and wave it about and it doesn't want to let go, with 2 of these types of screws in the 1 track I'm sure it will be strong enough to hold down the track with 2 in each peace of track. I'll find a peace of wood and try again with some track and see if it stays in place as an experiment!
I'm going to give all of my classic track to my brother,so he can get a track up and running, he'll have to hold it down as well so it can be moved around and storage. The original classic track is soft and it will form it's own grove on the screw once put in position!
Cheers,
John.

I'll give it a try later today John. Since the openings in the holes face the opposite direction you'll have to put one in and then flex the track to get the other one in. Perhaps the force that will be exerted on the screws will be sufficient to hold the track down. Only issue I see is that with Classic track you have to be able to angle the 2 pieces you're putting together to get the circular tabs into the location they need to be and then snap them onto the posts. I'll let you know how it works out.

Joe

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #14 · 1 mo ago

3

Ok, I put 2 round head screws into a piece of MDF to see what kind of fit and how well they held the track in place. (The flat head screws allowed the track to lift right off is there was any pressure used). The round head screws held the first piece of track in place but when I lifted it up to attach another piece of track it popped off. But I was able to just push it back down and it seemed to stay in place. However, when I put another piece of track down on the same 2 screws it wouldn't fit. The holes on the next piece of track were just slightly closer together and I wasn't able to push the track down on them.

Then I tried some 18 ga. wire brads. I put them right at the track to track seam where the tabs are. I put 3 pieces of track down and just used a hammer to put the brads in for now. They caught the tabs and held the track in place perfectly. While I'm working on building the tables and laying out the track I'm going to leave this out in the sun to see how the temperature affects the track expansion. The brads hold the track down great but I don't know if the heat will cause the track to buckle. In the mean time I'm going to keep looking for those Z brackets to how those work.

Joe

Asphalt Rectangle Road surface Wood Material property

Grille Rectangle Wood Road surface Grey

Rectangle Hood Wood Flooring Floor

See less See more

rastas

· #15 · 1 mo ago

The way I see of doing it is , you have the track connected then push the track straight down not connected one peace at a time. That's why I said above the cut off pointed screws to mark the position of the complete connected track , marking the position of the screws, or maybe in multiple larger sections !
With the flathead screws proud of the bass board but doesn't lift the track this will leave the bottom part of the C moulding to closing around the flat head! If you understand what I mean. Basically set up the hole track mark exactly where the track lay trace around the track mark where the screws go at the same time, then put the screws in!
John.

rastas

· #16 · 1 mo ago (Edited)

I found a new battery for my vernia caliper and measured the scews I have and the head of the flat head scews are 8.4mm-0.33" and the C moulding is 7.6mm - 0.31" this gives it a nice clamp on the screw without expansion of the slot. Looking at it it may be better with a button head screw that size, would give a lead into the C moulding!

John.

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #17 · 1 mo ago

Hi John,

I think once I get the first table built I'm going to give the round head screws a try. I like that idea because it would be easier to remove the track from them rather than the brads. It will just be a little bit move of a pain to lay out the screw holes since I'll either have to do as you recommend and put a screw in each of the 2 spaces in the track to make sure I drill the holes in the right places for the screws, or maybe I can lay out the track and drill the holes a set distance from the cross section where the holes are. I'll try it for a long straight and a curve and see how it works out.

Joe

Reactions: 1

rastas

· #18 · 1 mo ago

I have been thinking about making up some or trying to find washers with small holes in them that fit into the C moulding so it can be marked with a sharpie or centre punch this would be better than wasting screws that could be used to fasten the track down! Or maybe Make a plastic thick Gromit - washers again with a small hole so you can put the scews small enough to go in from the top of the track between the rails down through the slot into the Gromit - washers that would expand and lock the track in place! A bit like the Lex-Lock system! I'm not good enough to do it in CAD. But I do have a couple of 3d files for axle spaces and washes I'll have a play around and see if I can adapt something like that and see if I can get something to work!
If Mr flippant's reading this maybe you could have a look into this idea as well as your well versed in this sort of prototyping things , and has printed the Lex- lock system!
Just an idea and if it works , would be great for others who have been looking at trying to fix down there classic track as well!
Cheers,
John.

See less See more

OCJoeR

Discussion Starter · #19 · 1 mo ago

I think the only problem with that is it would bring the screw in contact with the rails. From what I've found a #6 washer has an outside diameter of 3/8" with a hole of 5/32. You could barely get a #2 screw in that. I guess if you used CA glue to affix the washer to the bottom of the "C" slot then you could put the screw in from the top.

Reactions: 1

Roguejackal

· #20 · 1 mo ago

Not sure about classic track, but the track fixing clips on Pendle, admittedly out of stock are the sort of things you want.
However I wouldn’t be making anything permanent until your 100% sure your happy with the layout, only then I would I fix down, I’d also cut it in flush with mdf and mastic it into place this will help if stay in place although will allow for a bit of movement .

1 - 20 of 130 Posts