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· Mr. Olufsen
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1,197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is not a review, just my experiences with the NSU TTs as an SSD racer. There's at least one in-depth review out there, and on this Forum there are a number of threads where the car is discussed.

I'll be earnest: NSUs had never been on my radar, but working on my hilly Sicily-inspired track constantly has sent me on lots of little nostalgia trips, and there I met the NSU TT Prinz. Whether you think it's a beautiful car is a matter of taste, but old commercials and youtube hillclimb videos certainly have done a bit to give this historic car a sporty 'King Of The Mountains' image:




Add to this the Revell series of slotcars - tiny, nice looking, cute, affordable, and out in at least nine liveries that I know of - and soon I had grown an irresistible urge to establish an entire stable for round robin racing purposes in our SSDDK 'Club'.

For certain, they look at home on the track:



And please take at look at those rear transverse mounted extra cooled cool engines:
 

· Mr. Olufsen
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1,197 Posts
Chipping
A nice surprise: After a few seconds of thinking, this turned out to be very easy.
The interior tray is shallow, almost flush with the bonnet, leaving plenty of room inside the car.


However, the car is so short that standard mounting of the IR LED would leave it almost mid-car, so I opted for the SureChange Racing guide. I took care to chamfer it a little bit as per the Scalextric chip instructions.


There is no room for a ferrite man on top of the motor, so after getting rid of the factory mounted resistors and capacitors, I soldered down the motor ferrite man, bending the legs so his head pointed down towards the bottom screw hole. I put the Scalex F1 chip transversely behind the front axle, fixing it with a small lump of blue tack. The guide wires were shortened, the front ferrite man re-soldered with two 2.5 cm lengths of wire. There was no need for extending the LED wires, so the LED was simply pressed into the SureChange guide, making this nice and tidy package:


Testing and gentle tuning
After fitting the chips, the weight landed at 67 g, except for one car, which weighed only 65 g. The chip incl. ferrite men normally weigh in at 5.5 to 6 g. This lead to cars that were fairly front/rear balanced (31 g front axle/guide, 36 g rear axle). No more extra weight was added.

I don't run analogue, so no testing was done prior to chipping. Running the cars w/ magnet was not a lot of fun in my opinion. They behaved quite 'stop-go-deslot'-ishly, staying glued to the track until optimistic cornering was rewarded with your typical rocket-like deslotting.

Out went the magnets. Nice... But some flaws were revealed immediately - rear axle slop and untrue tyres. So, I did a few things:

- The rear axle bearings were glued to the chasses
- All the cars were given a super glue collar rear axle treatment
- The rims were cleaned and sanded
- The rear tyres were checked on the inside, sanded, and glued to the rims
- One car kept whining loudly with the body mounted. This stopped after the edges and posts of the chassis had been sanded a bit
- On one car, the front wheels had to be straightened up

Handling was not completely even across the six cars, but I'm sure more tinkering would have levelled the field even more. Anyway, for a round robin series, the very small differences would only add to the competition.

Tune-up and maintenance
Replacing the gear with Slot.it inline crowns/pinions definitely is possible. The wheels are very small, and the ground clearance is only approx. 2.5 mm, but at Ø 16.7 mm and W 9 mm, short hub Ø 15.8 mm Slot.it wheels and low profile tyres would be an option if the original ones are worn down. The original hubcaps could be sanded and used as inserts.

Racing
Last week, a few guys popped in for a race night - magless only. After a few laps to get a feel for the cars, we ran a four round 25-lap GP series, with a 5 min back-to-front qualification session.

Of course, the NSUs were tipsier than a Slot.it LMP or an NSR classic, but that is part of the sport: the ability to handle different cars well. In this case, delicate cornering became paramount to success. As a safety precaution, we ran the series at 12V DC (in), just to get rid of any stop/go controller issues for all drivers, regardless of abilities. All controllers were clean, and calibrated in RCS64.

The overall fastest lap of the night was 7.2 secs (Slot.it Alfa 33/3), against the fastest NSU lap of 9.5 secs. For a Scalex TransAm Ford Mustang without magnets 8.6 secs is a good lap time. However, remember that my tiny 13m track includes 5 R1 hairpins. I will post again when they have been tested on another track. In my opinion, running them at 13.5 V is fine too, though I prefer a throttle profile like L-SPD -1 in RCS64.

The repair ratio (deslots) did not go up, people were very focused and enthusiastic, and we had just as many laughs as we had with 60ies/70ies classics or modern GTs.

In a nutshell: A success. If you like variation, if you're not dedicated to fast-fast-fast only but want to reward versatile driving skills, then the NSUs might be for you too.

Thanks for reading,
Christian
 

· Mr. Olufsen
Joined
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1,197 Posts
Thanks guys, I'm glad you liked it, and it's nice to hear that I'm not the only one, who has had some good experiences with these cars.

QUOTE (alexis in greece @ 11 Nov 2013, 09:41) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Slot.it 15.8 would be too big,what I use in small cars are Slot.it SIPA33als(Ferrari 312 fronts) with Avant Slot #20306 tires.
That is a good alternative choice of replacement wheels, of course PA33als wheels are fine. I have to disagree re. the Ø 15.8 wheels. They are a good fit depending on the wheel/tyre combination.

Here is a Ø 15.8 PA24alf wheel and an original NSU TT hubcap:


After filing it lightly, the cap pressfits nicely into the rim, and wheel and tyre fit nicely and spin freely. Mind you, this is not the correct tyre, just a PT20 tyre that I had in the bits box (total wheel diameter approx 18 mm). I would go for PT9670E1 tyres, which would bring the total wheel size down to 16.7 mm before truing; very close to the original wheel size (approx 16.5 mm):


If you paint the rim edge black before fitting the insert, the wheels will look almost like the originals too.

Christian
 

· Mr. Olufsen
Joined
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1,197 Posts
Hi Slots-O-Fun,

Gysse is right, lots-o-fun, but "good runner" as in Slot.it or NSR... Well... You will change the properties by using Slot.it wheels and tyres, for certain, but I love their distinctly tipsy qualities, and getting into a nice flow with a Revell Prinz is definitely rewarding. I have been planning to change rear wheels and tyres on all of'em, but I'm afraid of creating 'just another slotcar'.

Smooth or noisy? As mentioned, there is quite a quality variance; I have three favourites that have a lovely sound, and one that sounds like I-don't-know-what. It's a gear issue, and with a bit of paste (or change of gear) it should go away.

As you know, the purpose of creating good runners is not important when running balanced round robin type events. A level palying field, challenges, and fun are the key elements.

Anyway, this is truly a car for you, so get one while you can! I really want to see a video with an NSU climbing the BPHC


Best regards,
Christian
 

· Mr. Olufsen
Joined
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1,197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, the ltd. ed. Jägermeister no. 71 W. Bergmeister is hard to come by these days. Still, there are a lot of nice liveries out there.

Here two more from my collection. As they haven't been chipped, staff must push them on to the track for a photo session



/Christian
 

· Mr. Olufsen
Joined
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1,197 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
QUOTE (Slots-O-Fun @ 15 Mar 2016, 01:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Last week I found a Castol / 511 car with a few parade laps on it. I decided I've waited long enough! Can't wait to run the mountain!
I will keep you posted.

Sounds good, will look out for your updates.

/Christian
 
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