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Another one of my favorite cars that I've had sitting around for quite some time. When I originaly purchased it I was quite surprised by the lack of detail and while I'm not adding much it does seem to help.





The side pods were completely open so I cut some sheet plastic to fit and I'll use some filler to close in the gaps. The exhaust is just styrene tubing glued together and mounted to a small piece of plastic and inserted through a hole cut in the side pod.



Since I can't seem to make a chassis, once again it will ride on a beardog with BWA wire inserts that I think turned out very nice. I was very impressed with the inserts. I rubbed the back side of the insert on fine sand paper and sanded through until I was left with individual spokes. They look like real wires in person.



I constructed a small panel that mounts to the chassis so that it wouldn't seem so open. Hopefully it will help give it a more finished look. I intend to cut off the existing guide mount and fashion something closer to a pin guide so that it fit under the nose.
 

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Verry verrrry nice,one of my all time favorite cars.

If it isn't too late,you might want to consider moving your closing panels back just slightly,as on the real cars,these end panels were not flush,but inset a little bit leaving a slight forward facing flange on the leading edge of the paniers.The front and back outer edge of the paniers was also radiused to match the tires when seen from a side view.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments guys.

QUOTE Rather than cut into the chassis, is there room to use a trailing type like the Slot.it?

I have a slot-it guide and had originally intended to use that but I had to cut out the bottom of the nose for it to fit. When you viewed it from above you could not see it but from the front, all you saw was guide. That's why the repair is there on the nose. What I have in mind is cutting the guide mount flush with the front edge of the lower suspension, mounting the slot-it guide, but trim most of it since it will no longer swivel. I'm a little concerned about strength. Let me know what you think.

QUOTE If it isn't too late,you might want to consider moving your closing panels back just slightly,as on the real cars,these end panels were not flush,but inset a little bit leaving a slight forward facing flange on the leading edge of the paniers.The front and back outer edge of the paniers was also radiused to match the tires when seen from a side view.

Now that you mention it I should have used some the same flexible plastic that I used on the nose and glued it inside the tank with a small amount sticking out. I then could have glued another piece on top of that which would have brought it flush with the outside of the tank. That would have given me enough dremel room to shape the tank properly. hmmm.....
 

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QUOTE but trim most of it since it will no longer swivel. I'm a little concerned about strength. Let me know what you think.
Just cut the blade right off,drill a hole in the base,and squeeze in a bit of the red tubing that comes on contact cleaner spray cans,that's what I use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks again guys.

Russell, that is a beautiful D50. I have since removed the sheet plastic and have formed the right side tank with more plastic and filler to achieve the curved look as on the real car. I'll try to get some photos up soon.

Just where can we obtain the Sakatsu guide?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I decided to try and radius the tanks so I essentially just started over. I was able to save 3 of the plastic inserts.



I cut thin flexible plastic strips and shaped them to conform to the inside of the tanks.



The rotary tool with a sanding drum gave an almost perfect shape.



I added filler and sanded flush with tank



I put the plastic inserts back in and they are no longer flush but set back.



I think the overall shape looks much better now since the tanks curve with the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's perfect David. I wasn't sure if the mirrors should be silver or red or if the gas cap should be silver or red and I want to fashion a small dash. This takes care of all my questions. And thanks to all for the comments. The expletives directed at Al came as I cut myself 3 times with the exacto knife trying to get a good fit with the plastic. I do think the extra work will make a difference. So, thanks Al.
 
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