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A couple of my cars pickkup guides that sit in the slot keep smacking hard into the plastic V shape intersecting point situated in the slot where slot changes directions & the X section.

I might need to clarify the exact problem region where it is hitting.. I don't mean the V point on the metal flipper... but the actual X section. The plastic crossing point, hope this helps...

I'm thinking the best solution is to simply file back the tip of the V inside the curve till the cars change lanes smoothly.

But am I missing the point somewhere (pardon the pun )

I also notice one of the cars pickup guides that drop down into the slot is not always centered. It seems the positive wire is putting a little tension on the guide, rotating it slightly to the left making it off center.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated before i go about butchering my track piece.
 

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Prof I T
Ting Tong
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hi
the early scaley brochures on digital did recommend puting a leading edge on the guide flag.So before you attack the track just file the guide at 45° to take off the flat end.

I take it the problem mainly exists when using the older clc sections as the newer ones have a little bump in the side of the rail to encourage the guide to flick in the correct direction.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi ya Bigbird, The small bump is just before the flipper.. but my problem occurs in the center of a CLC where the cross section is. the Plastic V in the X section. After the flipper has changed the cars direction of travel... as the car crosses over the X section ... it hits the intersecting point quite hard, sometime even throwing the car out of the slot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i'll try shaving a little bit of the cars guide flag as you suggested.. see how it reacts.
 

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mickman: that's what I found with the start cars. The guide blades are different to the DPR ready cars. Given I've had no trouble with the others cars I'd say it was the guide blades.
 

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Prof I T
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hi
you could even use a craft knife to trim the giude flag this would save any filings getting into the car.
 

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Greg Gaub
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If putting a point on the leading edge of the flag doesn't solve the problem, open them up and see if you can adjust the tension of the wires so that the guide is better centered.
 

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QUOTE (mickman @ 19 Jun 2011, 05:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi ya Bigbird, The small bump is just before the flipper.. but my problem occurs in the center of a CLC where the cross section is. the Plastic V in the X section. After the flipper has changed the cars direction of travel... as the car crosses over the X section ... it hits the intersecting point quite hard, sometime even throwing the car out of the slot.

Do you mean an XLC or a CLC? The X-over is in the XLC and the usual problem with hitting the flipper is with the CLC.

Please clarify...

Cheers!
 

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Mr. F.
I have read you mention a couple of times the tension of the guide wires to center the guide. Could you explain this please.

I see SCX has a "new" centering system for their guides. Is this something only SCX cars can have or can we "borrow" the idea for Scaley cars?

Cheers!
 

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Prof I T
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hi
from my understanding it is with the clc section.I had this same problem with clc when i fisrt went digital.Clc at the end of the main straight and go for a lane change and...WOMP.

The good news was that any cars that did smash into clc did not suffer any long term damage,apart from a deformed guide flag wich was easily fixed.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Centering the guide using the wires is simply a matter of creating equal tension on both sides of the guide, tension administered by the guide wires themselves. In some cars, this is not possible, because the guide wires are not directly connected to the guide, but rather some other connection mechanism. SCX cars are a good example of this, as are many older Scalextric cars with their little metal tines that are embedded in the chassis which touch the braid. In those cases, the cars often have their own guide centering mechanism, usually some kind of spring. Where no spring is present, and in some cases even if there is a spring present in addition to wires directly connecting to the guide, it's best to use the wires themselves.

What you do is pull any additional wire back away from the front of the chassis, with only a short amount up front, usually at 90 degree angles, or thereabouts, to the blade. You want enough wire up front to allow the guide to move freely to its fullest extent either direction. If you notice that the guide wants to point one direction, try pulling the wire on the opposite side. Sometimes there's not enough slack to do that and still have full free movement. In that case, you want to give more slack to the side that the guide is pulling toward. It's often necessary, especially in basic cars from Scalextric, to disassemble and manipulate the wires so that they are better arranged to perform this task. In almost every case, you'll need to take the body off of the chassis.

I received another Pioneer Mustang for Father's Day yesterday, and had to remove the chassis, remove the wires from the guide completely, and even remove the front axle assembly. I put the chip in and made sure those wires were arranged to avoid any pinching by the interior, then ran the guide wires up and under the front axle and then to the guide. This created a tensioning loop back for each wire and both sides of the guide. After putting the guide back together and back in the car, I pulled the guide wires back on each side so that the guide would be pulled back to center by the wire on the opposite side of the guide from the direction it was turned.

Slot.it cars come already set up this way and their chassis are designed to channel the wiring in this fashion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for the replies everyone .. I've replaced the wires by soldering in new ones... this time with a little more length which allows a little more play in each wire.
I followed as per Mr Flippant's wiring directions and simply

' removed the chassis, removed the wires from the guide completely, and even removed the front axle assembly. I put the chip in and made sure those wires were arranged to avoid any pinching by the interior, then ran the guide wires up and under the front axle and then to the guide. '

I seriously need more practice soldering, must have taken me a good four to five attempts to get a half decent looking weld.

This seems to have done the trick ... Also, I mentioned earlier it was mainly on a CLC where the flag was hitting hard .. but my mistake it was is fact a XLC but occasionally also on one of the CLC

On a lighter note... I've just returned from Hobby Co. They're clearing out their Scalextric Digital gear... less than half price !! I bought a few CLCs . they're selling the C1223 Triple Cup for less than 130 pound ! NICE deal if you live anywhere close to a store.
 

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Do you mean to say another LHS is closing or getting out of slot cars?

Following up on Mr. F's advice,

I would like to know from those in the know if it is better to replace the Scalextric guides with the ones where the brass pin is on the wire end and it inserts into the guide to secure the braid. I think Slot.it or somebody makes them.... maybe SCX?


Sorry if this is vague but I recall seeing them on this forum when somebody converted an analogue to digital or added brake lights or some such thing.
Would appreciate comments on the "best" way to wire to the pickup/guide without actually soldering to the pickup wires.

Cheers!
 

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Greg Gaub
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Unless a chassis is broken or the car drives like carp and I think it's a problem with the guide system, I usually leave mine stock.

I think, however, you're talking about the slot.it universal screw mount guide. In fact, the majority of "high end" or "competition" quality guides use that system, with an eyelet on the end of the lead wire that presses into the top of the guide where the braid is also coming through. The pressure holds all the pieces together. This makes it easy to change braid with any kind you like, and not some dedicated manufactured braid thing like most Carrera cars, Pioneer cars, and some others use. Ninco uses a similar system to slot.it, but SCX and Scalextric both have their own "slots in the guide for the braid to fit in" way of doing it.

Fitting a car for a slot.it guide isn't always straightforward, though. A lot of times there is a lot of modifications to be done. Sometimes it's as easy as fitting a B-nova adapter, or even just putting the slot.it guide in. In all cases, it's important that the guide move freely and not bind at any point in its pivoting motion.
 

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Thanks Mr. F.

Just making a shopping list for our upcoming road trip to California (via Scalextric retailers, of course).


Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The shop I visited here in England was called Hobby Craft... the sales person stated that they are selling all the Scalextric gear as they will no longer support it. I picked up a few digital track pieces less than half price.

As for the issue with my cars guide flag hitting the X section of a XLC .. it ran fine after I adjusted it... however, a few hours later I ran it as a pace car & it smashed real hard into the back of a parked car... aaaah!!! back into the pits for some much needed repairs I think....
 

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Thanks, Mickman.

So we cross off one more CHAIN of LHSs carrying Scalextric products, right?
Where I am, the numbers are dropping as well.... so it is no wonder I shop in the US (on vacation) or over the internet....

Seems to be a downward spiral... price differential = less LHS sales = dropping product line = internet shopping

Comments?

Cheers!
 

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Here is the link I have added to my signature.
Thanks Mr. F. for the reminder.

Cheers!
 

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QUOTE (mickman @ 23 Jun 2011, 21:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The shop I visited here in England was called Hobby Craft... the sales person stated that they are selling all the Scalextric gear as they will no longer support it. I picked up a few digital track pieces less than half price.

Ah...this explains the depleted Scalextric stock levels at the two Hobbycraft stores nearest to where I live.

The last time I visited one of them, a few weeks ago, they had hardly any Scalextric stuff at all save for a few guide blades, one car and a couple of accessories - no discounted digial track pieces though I did find a CLC on sale at a local Modelzone store.
 
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