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Well my decals order from Patto arrived today, posted in Oz on Friday, arrives at Coopdevil Towers, England while munching my breakfast this Friday morning. Ain't the world small these days?

So shortly after breakfast straight upstairs and carry on with Le Monstre.



The front. I didn't even attempt to repair that hole in the headlight surround, I was OK using some Revell 'Plasto' filler to repair holes and a split elsewhere on the body but knowing my limits I didn't think I'd be able to improve on what is there.

Decals are obviously from Patto. I'd heard some talk that Patto's white decals are quite translucent and that the way around this is to double them up. IMO I didn't find the white to be that bad, it's gone over a very dark colour quite well. In the end though I thought there was a discernable difference between the white of the number disc and the white outside the blue so doubled them up. The number 2 is seperate so there's three layers of decals there! I just put a thin coat of Future over the area and the decals slid around into place easy as pie - much nicer than some I have used in the past.



As you might have guessed the large number 2s on the sides will go on at the very last just before the final Future coats otherwise I will end up picking the car up and rubbing them off. I can't help but feel that despite being designed by a Grumman aeronautical engineer the curvature under the nose of this car must have created unwanted lift.



Mr Briggs Swift Cunningham, I presume. I don't know the exact colours for the racesuit and helmet so these came as second-hand research from Mark Gussins excellent web-site. I think Mark used the same fibreglass shell as me but he doesn't state who produced it so I still don't know it's origin. Anyone?



The back showing how I really should have rubbed the back down a lot more. At the last club night I saw an Scalextric Aston Martin that Ralph Parker (monoposto chassis creator) was converting to a scratch-built brass chassis and was amazed at how much sandpaper abuse it had been given before primering. Kind of explained why my Cunningham is a bit rough at the back since I didn't go to anywhere near that level of abrasion.

I don't have any photo research of the rear of Le Monstre, and after painting the blue I then realised that actually there might be more white visible on the rear decking. The four rear lights being red is something of an educated guess as well.

I made what turned out to be a mistake during the initial spraying of the body by using Plastikoat Gloss White. It dries quickly but the body was still tacky over a week after the white coats. To get around this I squirted it this morning with a very thin coat of Games Workshop 'Purity Shield' - which is a (theoretically) matt varnish that instead always seems to be more a dull satin. As soon as this had dried the tackiness vanished. It was a bit of an experiment but fortunately it worked and I was back painting the shell within about 20 minutes of putting the Purity Shield on.

Hopefully I can get this finished for the Bath Retro meet in the New Year. It won't be competitive as it only has a Scalextric motor but what the hell - It'll be great to race something I've built up from scratch.

Still to be done - Some touch-up of the white, side decals, loads of Future. The chassis needs some front wheels - I'm still using that Scalextric NASCAR chassis with the shortened rear axle.

Coop
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Another point, perhaps of interest to Astro who was asking about this on the masking thread. To mask the sharp lines between the blue and white I used masking tape (slit with a scalpel then using the newly cut edge) and lightly flicked over with two coats of the Games Workshop Purity Shield. It seemed to work really well.

Coop
 

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Nice Job
. A coat of primer will highlight the areas that need attention for flatting etc with a dust/speckly coat of black or any dark colour over the primer coat and a sanding will show all the high /low spots on the original casting.

Nice driver detailing and I have noticed that OCA do a version of this beast but don't think its the same as yours.
 

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Looking good! Can't wait to see it finished


Thanks for the masking tips - my first attempt used tamia masking tape (with their existing edge, on halfords car paint) - and along with everyone's helpful tips, it worked out fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Much better pics and now all the decals are on I've started the many coats of Future.

Coop

P.S. John - I will be trundling around at the back of the pack with it at Bath, at least for one heat then tap Ralph up for loan of something decent!
 

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Thank you for pointing out the chassis to me
I like to see what is used on cars. It doesn't need to be trick to get my attention, it just has to work.
 

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Coop,

On the Future, do you just paint it on with a brush? I spray all of my cars and I'm curius to know if the Future leaves behind brush strokes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QUOTE (jhardy33 @ 21 Dec 2004, 16:34)Coop,

On the Future, do you just paint it on with a brush? I spray all of my cars and I'm curius to know if the Future leaves behind brush strokes.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

This car perhaps isn't the best example since I didn't really smooth the fibreglass down as much as it needs. The simple answer is yes (*) but I've found this can be minimized by not overloading the brush, brushing ssssssllllooowwwllllyyyy and gently blowing on the surface to remove bubbles. If I had an airbrush I would spray but I don't so I can't.

The drivers helmet is a household polyuerthane (sp.) varnish BTW.

Coop

(*) Although as I type I remember that the blue areas on the car are brush-painted anyway so of course any brushmark in that becomes a brushmark in the future!
 

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Hi

I recommend Future to everyone, but I admit I have never tried either Brushind or "dipping". I have this cool tool called a "Badger 100XF airbrush". Grin.

anyway, the guys who have tried future and brushed it seem to show no brush marks.

Fate
 

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Phil Smith
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You can put Future/Klear on with almost anything, even a finger!, yes I've done it!

It seems to be self leveling, wonderful stuff
 

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Alan Tadd
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All my cars are finished with Klear, brushed on in thick layers with a wide brush, as Phil says it is self levelling.

Regards

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finished! She's going to the races tomorrow (Bath Retro) so this is probably the last time she'll look immaculate.

I finally put some front wheels on her, Scalextric TVR Speed 12 fronts. Both axles are cut down, to get the front wheels 'inboard' enough I had to Dremel a little plastic away from the chassis that, on the original, served the purpose of keeping the front hubs sufficiently 'outboard' enough. Two cuts with the circular saw attachment on the Dremel is the only chassis work required other than prising the magnets out and making holes for the screws.

She didn't run at all well at Wolverhampton on a Thursday night shakedown session but I've added some weight and fronts for balance in corner so we'll see what happens but I'm not overly confident it will even be driveable on the day.

Coop
 

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