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Discussion starter · #41 ·
You could give me some tips on how you did the cattle grid. Does it rattle when you go over it??
It stopped raining and I managed to do the cut out for the cattle grid, but too dark for pics now. They'll have to wait 'til the morning.
 
Would a really tight hammer head give you a decent scandinavian flick? The hammerhead on my track does a good job of unsettling the car enough to force the tail out, but of course it's all fairly wide open so the car has time to settle into the pattern.

You would need to experiment to get it right without the guide jamming, but I was wondering if a path like this would work...


Actually, the lead in probably wouldn't need to be as deep as all that.

It might be worth having a look at some of the paths that Sig has used on his Mexican Airfield. Admittedly the 1:43 cars may react slightly differently to the 1:32, but it might be a source of ideas.

Cheers
Embs
 
The run up to the duck pond does have a slight 'flick' the wrong way. And the bit before the right hand 90 going through the cattle shed. The grip levels will be so poor that the feintest of opposie direction before a corner will encourage the back end come out. It's just a matter of controlling the throttle well enough to keep the slide all the way through the corner. That will be the hard bit.

I already have ideas for my next track so maybe I can apply lessons from this one and include some real long sliding corners?

I'm thinking of making some hay bales etc. Spent this months budget already and the router packing up didn't help. I will post the pics of the bales when I have done some.
 
QUOTE (Saviour @ 5 Oct 2011, 11:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'll be keep a close eye on this. So far looks great. Cattle Grid.....
If you use brass or aly tube, put a solid rod inside the tube, it will rattle as the cars cross over it.

I do like this idea, I only used bamboo barbeque skewers for mine, cut to length and hot glued in place. The cars do make a bit of noise going over it but I do think a bit of experimentation with the above idea will pay dividends.

Cheers - Phil
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
More pics as promised folks.

The filler came out today. Lots of it was needed.



As you can see the routing was finished yesterday and all 3 boards are clamped together with the levelling bars in place. 1/4" x 1" steel bars fitted into routed slots in the 2" x 1" frame. they keep the tops of the boards perfectly level. This system was used for the Pioneer track and that has had a lot of use over the last year and it works a treat.



I added a few extra bits in the paddock to create a bumpy uneven surface.



The start line. There will be a raised platform WRC style.



The boards have now been sealed with a PVA water mix and any faux pas filled. Just needs rubbing down and then I can think about laying the copper strip.
 
QUOTE (Aberstone @ 7 Oct 2011, 14:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Sorry to butt in,


With a bit of planning you can get a fair amount of classic track onto an 8X4




Cheers - Phil
(As seen at Farnham)
That is a huge amount of track for that size footprint, I can't imagine how you could f any mire in. Actually tempted to tr and duplicate it for a home setup, I must be able to fit that in the house somewhere
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
THe copper is on 2 boards. The sun was shinning and I couldn't resist haveing a try.



A bit of a bodge to hook it up and away I went.

I only got to drive half a lap in one lane, but if the rest of it is like this bit then it's gonna be one whole lot of fun.



Then back to work. Masking, my favourite part.



 
Sorry to ask, you did the copper before painting?...Never did it like that. Can it be painted after laying down copper? Are you going to mask the copper? Regards Jens Very nice track by the way!
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Hi Jens,
I always copper, then mask off the copper, and then paint. The thickness of 2 -3 coats of paint is about the same as the copper tape. I find it stops the cars catching the tape and making it peel of on the corners. I also usually use textured paint so it keeps the copper nice and flat.

Thanks for looking and any more questions please feel free to ask. Glad you like it.
 
Excellent. What thickness is the MDF of the humps? I can't believe you got it to bend like that?
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Hi Slots,

Base boards are 12mm MDF. The bit for the road section is 3mm I wanted to create that difference you get between the road and a field/turning off the road. It was then I realised that it would be ideal to bend it to get a hump or 2. It's just packed up a bit with various thicknesses of MDF. Lots of PVA and then clamped down to dry. The cars stayed in the slot when I tested it the other day, but they don't half clatter and jump about on it. It looks great.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
2 boards have now been given their base coats.

I picked up a 2.5L tin of brown that the local merchant was trying to get rid of. Should last a while. Shame it's gloss, but you can't have everything and there will be scenery ober it so it's not the end of the world.



The 'roadway' is a matt emulsion grey, no texture yet, I haven't made a final decision about that.

The concrete farmyard is also painted, but i'm not too happy with the colour. I thought concrete was grey--ish? I think it will look better light brown though.



During the evenings I have been making small scenery items. Here are some pallets I had a go at. Don't look too closely. A bit rough and ready, but that's what pallets are aren't they? I will give them a seal with clear coat as I don't want them to change colour with age too much.

 
QUOTE (Saviour @ 12 Oct 2011, 22:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The thing is to leave the first hump and land on the last. 3mm, but a guide is at least 6mm

Andy, don't worry the slot is still the correct depth, it goes straight through the 3mm MDF into the packing or gap below. The MDF has effectively been cut into two bits, each bit being held by whatever sticky stuff Dave had laying around.
 
QUOTE (Keef @ 13 Oct 2011, 14:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Andy, don't worry the slot is still the correct depth, it goes straight through the 3mm MDF into the packing or gap below. The MDF has effectively been cut into two bits, each bit being held by whatever sticky stuff Dave had laying around.

Thats what I thought. Had this idea with 3 Mirrors. 3mm gap between each, driving through water, or ICE
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Got a bit more done over the last couple of days.



Got some flock on the paddock and the surrounding field.

I cut down some old Scaley hump back bridge sides, not convinced i'll use them yet. Let's see what they are like when they have been painted and don't look so plasticy.



Had an idea on howe to make some silage bales.

35mm circles cut out of plaster board. wrapped in cotton wool and then plastic black bin liner. That's the plan anyway.

 
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