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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!

I'm getting back into the hobby after a few years and looking to build a semi-permanent layout, that can be easily transported/ dismantled and moved by 1 person as it can't stay set up for more than a day or 2.

Just wondering how people have made portable light weight layouts/ boards in the past? Frame works and materials??

How were legs added? Or are layouts best being put on tables?

Best way to connect/ disconnect sections? Can track be fixed in place? Or better left completely loose?

Looking to build a layout around 5ft x 12ft using scalextric track. Possibly using classic or new sport/ digital track.

Any help appreciated.
 

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I'm currently going through this myself. I'm fairly sure I'm going to cut a couple of 8'x4' 18mm plywood sheets in half, and set them on tables. I've been shopping for pasting tables as they are cheap and portable, but they're just so flimsy. Most of the places I'm likely to put the track will have tables of some description, so using thick board that won't flop about means I don't need to worry about framing, and can keep the bottom of the boards flat so they'll sit on any tables that are handy.

Obviously, if you are a talented woodworker, you can probably achieve a lot more. I fix computers, so I need something simple. These organic materials just confuse me
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haha.

Sounds like we're definately in the same boat. I've built model railway boards before using frame works, but the railway stuff is soo much more lightweight than the scalextric tracka nd buildings, etc. Plus there's much more chance of people leaning on a slot car layout than a railway layout, so like you say, the flimsy pasting tables are out in my opinion!!

Any further replies appreciated
 

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I am in the middle of this at the moment. I have used a 12mm thick 1220mm x 2440mm sheet cut in 3 to 1220mm x 800mm.

It is hinged together, painted and looks OK. Worried about scuffing the edges but for transporting I have put foam pipe insulation over them.

It is damn heavy though. 1 person can left it but ideally you need two.

Doing a mock build tonight so will post pics.

Jack
 

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QUOTE (Jack155Q4 @ 1 Jun 2012, 14:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Worried about scuffing the edges but for transporting I have put foam pipe insulation over them.
I'm going to buy a 10m roll of 1mm lawn edging. That should help protect the edges, and also remove the pointy corners. I figure a few screws with some cupped washers, and it should hold nicely. This will also help keep the cars on the table. The edging around the old boards was too low, and cars would fly off willy nilly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (Jack155Q4 @ 1 Jun 2012, 15:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I am in the middle of this at the moment. I have used a 12mm thick 1220mm x 2440mm sheet cut in 3 to 1220mm x 800mm.

It is hinged together, painted and looks OK. Worried about scuffing the edges but for transporting I have put foam pipe insulation over them.

It is damn heavy though. 1 person can left it but ideally you need two.

Doing a mock build tonight so will post pics.

Jack

Look forward to how this looks. If you used a framework with a thinner top board/ covering would this not save a lot of weight?
 

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I have a layout which is a portable layout, and has been made to hold a plastic track in place.

I used 3ft by 4ft mdf sheets (4x6 cut in half), 9mm thick. A basic frame was made from sawn timber about 25x50mm with a strengthner across the middle. These sections are butted to each other and bolted with coach bolts and wingnuts (M8).

6mm sheets were placed onto the 9mm and the track placed ontop. The track was drawn out and cut with a jigsaw. The 6mm was screwed to the 9mm. The 6mm is about the same height as the track and track detail such as borders can be painted on.

I put 4 legs per board. These are from Ikea and have a plate which screws ontohe baseboard. The leg then screws onto the plate. Each legs are £2.50 each and are called VIKA ADILS.

Barriers were made from 50mm 'L' section and screwed to the baseboard. I found a company called 'the facia place' which holds huge stocks at a fraction of the price of the big DIY shops. Double glazing places also have the stuff.

Each piece is easily lifted by one, and stores nicely in my small shed when not in use. I leave the track in place and remove the pieces where it overlaps the boards. None of the track is atttached to the base boards.

I will try and take some pics soon.

andy
 

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Ooh, those Ikea legs look promising. I've bookmarked those for phase 2. I'll make do with tables for now, but adding those legs would make the track self sufficient.
 

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QUOTE (Superstarsi @ 1 Jun 2012, 17:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Look forward to how this looks. If you used a framework with a thinner top board/ covering would this not save a lot of weight?

Most likely. This idea can be for V.2. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Andy

This sounds a bit more like what I had in mind. Look forward to the photos. I'd not thought about removable legs, I automatically thought about folding legs like on a tressle table. I did think about 'sinking' the track into the board, but the fencing round the edge of the track issue may cause problems for me.

Interested to see how your barriers look also!

Thanks for the reply,

Si
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Jack.

Track looks good, but as you mentioned, just having one massive heavy board probably isn't going to work out for me. I might have to just experiment with different materials and designs to see which is light without compromising strength.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Jack.

Track looks good, but as you mentioned, just having one massive heavy board probably isn't going to work out for me. I might have to just experiment with different materials and designs to see which is light without compromising strength.
 

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I've gone for a series of 2 x 4 6mm MDF boards with a light wood frame underneath. In my case, I've routed right through the boards - works well - but the sections would work equally well as a base for plastic track. The sections are light (before I started adding scenery!), they're easy to lift, and small enough to store easily. Although I know others have come up with slicker and quicker ways of joining up boards, I've simply put a bolt through the wood framing. works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Don you have a sweet little layout going on!

And a lot of time on your hands clearly! The detail is immense- loving the buildings!

In terms of scale I'm thinking much bigger and am now looking at pre-made 6ft folding tressles with some kind of structure to hold em together. Not sure how to, or if if I will leave the track as one. Maybe just join sections together and transport/ store in a specialy made box/ container.

Hmmm.......

Drawing board.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Something like that would be good- but the thread that's from says its a 2 man job! I was after a 1 man effort ideally.
 

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Like my one man effort then.

Take a look at the link in my sig to the Amman Valley Raceway. Board construction and folding lightweight trestle tables may be of interest to you.

BUT the boards at around 1m x 1.2m are a tad heavy - I can lift them and manhandle them into the back of the car on my own but next time would make them more like 1m x 800mm. Mind you next time will be routed which will seriously cut down the weight.
 
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