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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
First, congratulation. This forum is excellent.

This is my first post, and before, I would like to say, that everybody can get my help.
I mounted my Scalextric Sport track yesterday to test before hold them. The track has 14.03 meters and I hope that you like. But, I've two little problem. In some section of route (mark with white points), near finish line, the car decrease speed. I got 7.50 volts around the route, when I press the trigger until end. I checked the track and it like ok, and I tested with 4 different car's manufactures.
The other problem is stranger. I've the same 7.50 volts with the original Scalextric Sport Control 60 ohms and the with Fly 40 ohms. I think that the Fly increase the volts and speed, I'm right??
Well, I hope, in future, I can help everybody.



Thanks a lot,
 

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Hi xelayb and welcome to the forum.

The Fly and Scalextric Sport controllers would have different characteristics but I think the maximum voltage would be the same.

I would suspect the voltage drop could be caused either by a poor connection between the track pieces or, possibly some metallic object (a stray piece of braid or wire perhaps) caught in the slot and causing a partial short circuit across the rails.

Good luck with finding the problem
 

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Graham Windle
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you should get the same voltage at any point on the circuit a resistance controller varies current not volts ,but on any large sectional track I would suggest the use of jumper cables to ensure even power distibution around the track this will also help with any dead sectionscaused by poor track joints . My 70 ft carrera has 4 feeds per lane and the power is even all round the track..The 7.5 volts you quote seems awfully low , standard psus kick out over 15 volts but the amperage is very low, I use a 7.5 amp 13.8 volt regulated psu and its plenty for the motors I run
 

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Hi,

Thanks a lot for your answer, really fast. When I raced (long time ago) the track was big and I am not worried with detail, I took a car in slot and raced. I didn't have slot track at house, then I don't know some details. I am thinking to bay other transformer and put each slot with one. Now, I can't test because I umount the track.

JonhP : "..partial short circuit across the rails" it's really possible. I'll clean best the next time.

GRAH1 : "..caused by poor track joints.." I checked and it was ok. I would like understand more about the car in slot. I thought that the car moved with the tension (volts) but I'am wrong, the car use the amperage to move, right ? Do you known where I can read about it ? I would like to make my owner control.

Thanks,
 

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Graham Windle
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4,445 Posts
both volts and amps make the car run nominal voltage of your psu may be say 12volts dc but if your psu only supplys say 1/2 an amp and the motor needs 2 amps to work efficiently then the motor will not run or run slowly . If you imagine the voltage supply as a hose pipe then the amperage equates to the flow of the water i.e the stonger the flow the higher the amperage.
Slot sets are sold with a power supply that meets the bare minimum requirements so if you up grade to higher performance motors you wont get the best out of them with out an upgrade of psu . a supply of say 10 amps wont do any damage to your motors as the motor will only take as much power as it requires ,I hope this explaination helps and you understand what I was waffling on about
 

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Welcome to SF, xelayb.


I am concerned about your figure of QUOTE 7.50 volts around the route.
This sounds VERY low, too low.
It sounds as though your power supply is faulty!

1. Is your volt meter accurate? (MOST important!)
2. What power supply are you using?
3. Have you checked the voltage AT the power supply terminals?

These are important questions to answer before looking deeper into the problem.
It would be good if you could use another volt meter to check your figure of 7.5 volts.
Then, check the power supply with it NOT connected to the track.
Then we can look at other problems.
 

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Yep, also agree, sounds as if you want to have your power supply checked out.

A quick/simple way to check your track power 'flat spots' is to place a rubber band around your hand controller to hold the trigger on flat out. Then, hold the rear wheels of a car off the track and run the car around the track taking particular notice of engine noise over where you think the track is losing power. If your hearing is any good, you should be able to notice a change in pitch in the revving motor at the exact point on the circuit where the trouble is.

NOTE: DON'T LET GO OF YOUR CAR UNTIL THE RUBBER BAND IS OFF THE CONTROLLER!

What also makes your track different is its really fast right up until you hit the tight corners. Sometimes a car feels like its "bogging" down through some of these sections once you have the hang of the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi,

Sorry my delay, but my computer ......
Well, I've mounted the base structure and I hope that this weekend I'll test again. Now,
I've just one answer.

2. What power supply are you using? Original Scaletrix Sport Power Supply. (I already bought the second
)

Thanks a lot everybody, next week I'll post news about it.
 
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