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H

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got so many new ideas bubbling away now thanks to this forum...
one is to make yet another version of the Chaparral 2C out of the MRRC/Monogram 2A... but any suggestions how to make all those louvres that cover the front wheel arches? I think they'd look pretty cool done properly, but an easy way to mess up a model, too.
 
J

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#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi again howmet


I have been thinking about this myself although not for the Chappy in particular.

I have an old SMEC kit


but rather than mess this up, I thought I would make a replica and mess that up instead


I was going to work out the spacing between individual louvres and buy slightly wider strips of thin plasticard - I could just cut them from a big piece of course but I'm far too lazy for that


Using a piece of graph paper to line things up I was going to partially overlay the strips, applying a smigeon of liquid poystrene cement and holding them in place down the sides with tape while everything set.

When it's all dry it should be possible just to cut out long strips of louvres. Putting more glue on the back should then soften the plasticard helping it to follow the contour of the body as you apply it.

Anyway, it's all just a theory.

P.S. I'll probably use paper strips for my project as (in theory again) I'll be gluing onto balsa.

P.P.S. I notice there are some very expert louvre makers on this forum - perhaps someone else could help?
 
Ecurie Martini

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#3 ·
The SMEC papaer strips are very effective when glued down and painted -but, like you, I am not willing to raid my remaining kits for the louvre bit (I wish someone would put those lovely models back into production)

Somewhere in my travels I have seen a finely ridged metal roller that could probably be mounted in a handle and used to roll louvres into heavy paper stock or even thin metal, but I can't recall the source.

An alternate technique that I have used for short lengths of louvres is the following:

Cut heavy paper or thin plastic into strips of width 2 X the desired louvre spacing. Cut the resultant strips into pieces as long as the width of the louvres. Glue the pieces, shingle fashion, in place with each successive piece overlapping the previous one by 50% (The first louvre in the set should have a half depth piece flush with the forward edge. Tedious, and not for the unsteady hand, but effective. (Note: I have only done this on wooden static models or mold patterns where the bits could be glued between two strips of glue-resistant plastic pinned to the body for alignment)

EM
 
H

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks chaps... I think I'm getting the idea. A few practice runs are in order before I start messing up ANOTHER MRRC shell.

That SMEC kit looks wonderful- it should definitely have a place in a museum somewhere, just as you pictured it, John. Too good to build?

And I love the idea of a metal roller... I just wonder if a pinion gear might work?
 
Ecurie Martini

· Al Schwartz
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#5 ·
QUOTE (howmet tx @ 12 Dec 2003, 06:59 PM)And I love the idea of a metal roller... I just wonder if a pinion gear might work?
Good point - and there are some long enough to make a wide strip - 1/4" in 1/32 is an 8" louvre. I'll dig around and see if I can find one and give it a try.

EM
Click to expand...
 
S

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#8 ·
I don't know if this would work for a Chappy, but I've seen people use plastic strips cut from a sheet of clapboard house siding for railroad scenery (maybe Plastruct brand?). These can then be applied directly to the surface of the car, although I think they look a lot better if you scribe and cut a very shallow recess for them so that only the "fins" protrude.

I have also resorted to simply copying louvres from existing cars. Find examples that are sharp and the right size and apply modeling clay to make a mold. Mix up 15-minute epoxy and pour into mold. After it sets up but before it becomes brittle, pick out the louver and gently bend to the correct contour. After it dries thoroughly you can then recess it into the body.

This kind of work can be tedious but I find it pretty rewarding.

mp
 
J

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#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
I've been setting gear mesh for years this way resulting in small bits of (what I now know to be) authentic 1/32 scale louvres that I just threw away. But it's thanks to howmet and EM that the penny finally dropped - talk about staring me in the face!

By careful stretching of the corrugated paper it should be possible to vary the louvre spacing too. It's a bit flimsy though: maybe a few coats of thinned PVA glue as varnish might strengthen it up. Or, if I can get my cardboard back (the kids nicked it to make Christmas cards) that might work better.

I think speedyweenie's idea is great too. Once one strip is correct maybe it could be duplicated in epoxy using a plastercine mold. Interesting.

Still, I wonder if anyone else has a method for doing these louvres?

Good topic tx. Can you come up with any other great projects to keep me from my shelf-full of other unfinished "work in progress" this dark and dank weekend?
 
H

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No John

This is the perfect weekend for completing your Lotus 15. I will not distract you from it until I see the finished article posted on our favourite forum. Now fill up your thermos flask and repair to the workshop immediately. I want to hear no more from you until it's handed in on Monday.

Its called tough love
 
J

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#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
QUOTE Personally I have a stack of NSCC magazines.
Tropi might want to hear about those


Well howmet tx, as this picture of a simple home-made lid-less box containing tomato soup clearly proves, I have been working hard on my Lotus 15.


I now have a two day wait before I can cast anything in resin so I shall now return on-topic and continue with my my louvre experimentations.
 
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