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I'd like to propose a collection of useful and related tips on lubricants.
We can gather any and all information in this thread, just as it comes. I'd expect it to be posted quite haphazardly and then later we can sort it out into a fairly authoritative little permanent SlotForum resource that anyone can refer to in future.

We appear to have two basic types
GREASES
OILS
Opinions on the uses of aerosol types would be interesting, though in our small scale I tend to think they are not very practical. However, someone might well have good ideas for some of these products - let's hear about them!

Molybdenum, lithium, synthetic, natural, di-electric, plastic UNfriendly are words that immediately spring to mind. I think it is essential that we should have a list of lubricants that are KNOWN to be damaging to plastics. I suspect some oils can attack plastic commutators and possibly dissolve the insulation off comm windings. Please throw in your own favourites and UNfavourites too.

Which lubricant is most suitable for particular purposes?
For instance, I just laid my hands on a pair of tiny Ninco ball-races and I haven't a clue what is the most suitable lubricant for them - grease or oil, what type and how much of it?

Where to locate these products in the first place and in small quantities in particular?
For instance, 'Greasy Faeces 40' might or might not be the greatest all-round lubricant in the world but, if only available from Tierra del Fuego in 200 litre drums @ £1,000 a shot, plus delivery charges, not too practical for the lone slottist! A 50ml tube from your local B & Q might be a better alternative, but does that alternative actually exist? Several specialist products available in USA might or might not be available in UK/Europe and might or might not use the same name.
Cheaper alternatives to big brand names would be useful info.
Let's hear about prices.

Even opinions on the best non-leak hypodermic type applicator would be really useful. For instance, some of them leak quite badly if not kept bolt upright and, even if they are, expansion through heat can blow their load all over the contents of your slot box - MESSY!
 

· Graham Windle
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QUOTE I think it is essential that we should have a list of lubricants that are KNOWN to be damaging to plastics.

Might be a good idea to post a disclaimer . oils/solvents etc being carcinogenics etc (if thats how you spell it) before putting any lists in resources

I can almost see it now in the Sunday Sport " 3 Headed Child blames blames slot car obsesion for deformities". Not that I would ever read anything like that.

Seriously though a good idea .

heres my favourite noxious substances
Tyre treatment :-
3 in 1 oil softens rubber
WD 40 I .softens rubber
Oil of wintergreen(destroys plastic /strips paint/stinks)softens rubber
Suntan lotion (factor 5) revitalises rubber. Rub on, leave 5 mins, rub off. Leaves no deposit.
Camen Stick It light, thinned down with lighter fluid ( for spongies)
Solvents :-
Lighter fluid, cleans tyres and braids
Gaffer tape , cleans tyres
Lubricants:-
3 in 1 oil general purpose lube
WD40 com lube on scx used very sparingly also braid lube
20/50 motor oil , bearing lube for enduro racing (makes oilites last 24 hrs. Fact!)

DISCLAIMER : use of the above substances is totally at the inividuals own risk and not recommended for children ( if you get cancer or grow 2 heads or get ill in any way through using these then don't blame me you have been warned)
 

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QUOTE (Tropi @ 27 Jan 2004, 12:40 PM)Even opinions on the best non-leak hypodermic type applicator would be really useful. For instance, some of them leak quite badly if not kept bolt upright and, even if they are, expansion through heat can blow their load all over the contents of your slot box - MESSY!
Great suggestion about lubricants Tropi, I'd never given it much thought until now.

As for hypo applicator, the one that Jim sells at Slot Tech is rather good. It hasn't blown its load (dodgy ground on this kind of forum
) despite being laid (oh dear) horizontally in my slot box (gets worse really). Sometimes the oil comes out quickly when you remove the top, but you can be ready for it (I really should stop this thread!) and no leakage elsewhere.

Ahem... Sorry I can't give you a brand name 'coz there isn't one on it. The applicator is transparent plastic with a metal needle and union screwed in the end. I don't even know what sort of light oil it's filled with. Hopefully Jim can help if he's reading this


Graham, do any cars run oilites as standard, are they motor bearings or are they aftermarket bits?

Cheers,
Mark.
 

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Next Sunday we will have a four hours enduro racing; I will try the 20/50 motor oil for the bearings and I hope my car will run better; now I am using Trinity oils for ball bearings and oilites, and Teflon white grase for the gears ( made from Robbe, I think for R/C helicopters).
Ciao
 

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Hi Guys,

I use;

Tyres: WD40, 3in1, lighter fluid and sometimes tape. At a push saliva and plenty of hand friction cleans lots of gunk off and gets them nice and warm too!

Bearing(motor and axle); Lubra Metallic(german in nice fine pen appplicator)

Gears; Tamiya molyendiumiumium
Recently have been considering using copperslip(anti seizing agent used in motorand industrial apps) It is very viscous and may be durable on gears, as thinner substances just get throw off(See centrapetal force).

Hope this helps

Cheers

BSN

Ps as for hypos I used to use the syringe that comes with ink jet refills! 5mls lasts avery long time in slot cars
 

· Matt Tucker
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3,741 Posts
Here is my list which is very similar to Grah01
Tyres soften: 3 in 1 oil (any hardware store)
Tyres clean: lighter fluid and or gaffer tape (any hardware store)
Braid: lighter fluid (any newsagent)
Bearings (axle and motor): light oil with pin point applicator (any model shop)
Gears: copper grease (nicked weekly from a fellow club member as I've not found a UK source of it yet - suggestions)
Motor commutor: trinity formula 2000 (electircal conducting oil) v sparingly (RC shops)

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is going great!
Just a lunch-time quicky . . .
Is there more info available on European sourcing for Clidex by Slik 7, Voodoo oil, Teflon spray, lubra metallic?
Is WD 40 available in anything but aerosol cans?
Any experience with Slick 50 - a full-size automotive oil additive?
Keep it coming - I'm impressed by the enthusiastic response!
 

· Rich Dumas
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4,651 Posts
Choosing the right lubricant is more important than you would think. I had a good 1/24th motor freeze up because I tried some exotic Teflon lubricant. For oil I use Slick 50, which is a motor oil with rather exaggerated claims, but I have found that it has never failed me with HO "pancake" motors. As a grease I use Lubriplate 1552, which is a lithium based product. I have a tube of the stuff, which I expect will last a lifetime. The company website lists the smallest size as a 14.5 oz. cartridge for a grease gun. To clean braid I use automatic transmission fluid. None of these products seem to damage plastic, rubber might be another matter. You might also want to check the ATF on paint. I wouldn't drink any of this stuff.
 

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erm if you ever need to get paint off get a cd lens cleaning kit.. you dont need any elbow grease at all.. it's instant anyway

tyres - WD40 and 3-1
braid - WD40
comm - lighterfluid - only ever used in the vectra when it was NEEDED Rob knows the effect of lighter fluid in the motor of that!
bearings - trinity oil

anything I missed?

Rob.
 

· Jim Moyes
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6,567 Posts
Good thread Tropi, and it's reminded me of something our transatlantic cousins could possibly help me with.

I used to use some Teflon Grease that I got from Tandy (a now defunct electrical chain store in the UK) that really made my cars super smooth and whisper quiet but with Tandy's demise the supply has dried up (despite going round all my nearby branches and buying up what I thought was a lifetime stash). I believe Tandy had some sort of connection to the Radio Shack group in the States and the brand name on the tube was Archer. Is this still being produced, does anyone know?

BTW, RichD, Slick 50 is a teflon based lubricant additive, and I can vouch that it really helps the longevity of car engines, particularly old ones. Bit expensive to use as a slot car lubricant though, last time I bought a bottle it was nearly 20 quid!

Here's hoping

Mr.M
 

· Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE I believe Tandy had some sort of connection to the Radio Shack group in the States and the brand name on the tube was Archer. Is this still being produced, does anyone know?

Mr. Material, Tandy indeed was the parent company of Radio Shack. Tandy marketed a variety of products inside and outside its Radio Shack chain. Archer was the Tandy "brand name". I'm not sure what happened to Tandy itself, but Radio Shack is now a corporation on its own and the Archer name seems to have disappeared along with Tandy. Perhaps Tandy just realigned under the RS name because that was 98% of their business anyway.


I couldn't find teflon grease on their web site - closest I came was a needle-type oiler with a lubricant containing PTFE (I believe it's an oil with a teflon-based additive). But I'm no chemist.
 

· Brian Ferguson
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QUOTE hmm.. teflon grease ya say

Actually, several greases contain teflon. But I still like Molybdenum grease for gears - the Tamiya stuff is quite good - have no idea if it's still available 'cause the tube I have is quite old, the stuff lasts forever. Lots of makers for it though, so moly grease is easy to find. Works well because it leaves a thin film long after you think it's gone. I have a Team Losi RC truck that I've had for about 12 years and I've probably only cleaned and regreased the gearbox about 5 or 6 times - not a sign of wear.

As for other faves:

Pickup braid - Tiger Milk, lighter fluid if not available
Bearings/bushings - Mobil 1 synthetic 5W/30
 
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