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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was going through some boxes of slot car related bits and pieces and I'd randomly stumbled across some bags containing some very old motors.

Wow... I forgot I had these... honestly... I can vaguely remember where I got these - I think they came from a pile of Tyco HP2 chassis' I'd gutted for these motors many many years ago and I'd just lost track of them....

Upon inspection, there are two different types of can motors, both look very similar to one another and they are differentiated only by the endbells in which brushes are actuated....

The first and today's more common type has endbells with motor brushes that are suspended on tips of leaf springs e.g. Tomy AFX Turbo/SRT, this endbell setup carried directly onto the Tomy AFX Super G Plus... and a common practice amongst the racers is to 'tweak' the leaf springs to alter the angle of contact at the point where the brushes make contact with the commutator.

The other style has small brass tubes (or barrels), inside which the brushes are tensioned onto the commutator by coil springs.

I'm thinking about building some seriously insane can motors using these brush barrel-style endbells.
I'll modify them first by adding some threaded brush barrels - this will allow me to adjust the tension of the brushes to improve the performance - have you ever tried pressing the brushes harder onto the commutator ? Try it ! Use the fine tip of a small screw driver and gently add pressure onto the brush of a running motor...

I intend to build some sweet brass cars based on these motors ! Add some ceramic magnets, wind some #37 or #38 gauge armatures, aftermarket threaded brush barrels, some silver plated high-temp brush springs for a Wizzard Storm, ball bearings, finish it off with a Slide Guide.. a modern brass car !! Perhaps a miniature version of a Womp.

I remember a version of the 1:32 Womp named the 'Flexi womp' based on the 1:24 scale 'Flexi' so perhaps a Mini flexi-Womp.. it definitely do-able...
I'm excited !! lol

Below: can motors with brush barrels.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's funny that you mentioned about their website issues as I'd only emailed them recently in regards to the availability of some parts and what I got in return felt like a pile of excuses....They must be losing so much business to the Viper mob. But then again- you can't make sales when you have nothing to sell.
 

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Rich Dumas
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I had suspected that Scale Auto was having difficulties and that was confirmed when I tried to place an order the other day. At least they got back to me fairly quickly. I have been doing business with Scale Auto for over twenty years and I would hate to see them close up shop. HOCOC has several classes that can use the G3 chassis, one for G-Jet type cars and one for Spec Stocks. Interchanging parts between different makes is not allowed. A fellow racer needs a new BSRT armature to be competitive, but he hasn't been able to buy one. Viper parts will work in the BSRT G3 chassis, we may have to modify the rules, at least until Scale Auto gets back on its feet, so people will not have to replace their BSRT cars.
If Scale Auto does get back up to speed it would be nice if they had a modern e-commerce site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did some arms a while back for a few blokes that gets into HO drag racing and recently they started hitting me up for more arms. Now that would totally explain it.
I know Viper offers a couple of hotter arms in the 2.5 - 3.0 ohm range, but they are still the mass-produced machine-wound units running plastic comms and basic wire.
Besides BSRT, I doubt anybody else offered custom winds using high temp wire and high temp phenolic comms. Good luck to anyone looking for something like a #31 gauge 0.7 ohm unit.... lol
 

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As box motors go ya got yer horizontally timed arms, and the off vertical timed arms. I've never been enamored with the lever sprung brushes or bulkheads of the off vertical timed arrangement. The melt/weld method of securing the lever spring and comm lug to the bulkhead is totally "Hasbro". Bottom line? Ya cant change a brush or brush spring without changing the bulkhead.

It tosses what was a serviceable arrangement backwards, to a disposable toy-grade application. Having spent some years in an electric motor dungeon, this idea is one of the lines seperating quality and crap.

For us common folk, most all of Wizzards hypo goodies, or any of the horizonatally timed slotcar arms of yore; will spoon right in to the old Tyco Mabuchi 50 series or Johnson equivalent. Converting them with stock tyco 440 parts is a fool proof, cheap, simple, but significant upgrade over stock. All you need is a viable 440 core, and the later bushed Mabuchi box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
As box motors go ya got yer horizontally timed arms, and the off vertical timed arms. I've never been enamored with the lever sprung brushes or bulkheads of the off vertical timed arrangement. The melt/weld method of securing the lever spring and comm lug to the bulkhead is totally "Hasbro". Bottom line? Ya cant change a brush or brush spring without changing the bulkhead.

It tosses what was a serviceable arrangement backwards, to a disposable toy-grade application. Having spent some years in an electric motor dungeon, this idea is one of the lines seperating quality and crap.

For us common folk, most all of Wizzards hypo goodies, or any of the horizonatally timed slotcar arms of yore; will spoon right in to the old Tyco Mabuchi 50 series or Johnson equivalent. Converting them with stock tyco 440 parts is a fool proof, cheap, simple, but significant upgrade over stock. All you need is a viable 440 core, and the later bushed Mabuchi box.
Actually I've managed to source a few thousand pairs of the 'disposable' type spring / brush assemblies from the company that also provided me with my armature blanks and phenolic commutators..a big portion of my experimental runners are based on the BSRT or Viper chassis,' so I've had to find a solution for when the brushes wear out in the endbells..and to change the springs and brushes out of the endbells as found in the AFX Turbo/SRT & Super G-Plus is not all that difficult - just shave off the stubb that's holding the spring on, straighten out the locating tab and slide the bugger out - simple.
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Having said that, the Decosmo T+ bulkhead that allowed the brush barrel style setup to be adapted into any SG+ based chassis (including the BSRT G3/R & Viper) is one of the best innovations to ever come out of the HO slot car world, I'm just very lucky to have managed to stock up on a few of them several years ago back when they were still available.
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Not a .ho. racer but I brought these mini motor's off eBay seemed cheep enough to me , after reading this post I realised that these maybe something like what you are intending to build or maybe parts for the biuld.
Cheers,
John
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Perspective depends on what side of the looking glass one is on.

So after you pry/loosen the motor fractionally apart ... fidget the end bell tool in ... just to get the motor all the way apart; then cut the brush/spring assemblies off the comm plate. How are the new parts, "you were so lucky to get", re-secured after you cut old the ones out? I must have missed school that day. LOL

Pending the answer ...

Then gotta retool to spread the new brushes, to reinstall the armature; and finally mash it all back together.

Yes, I can see where the above method is way easier than not having to completely disassemble the motor, popping a brush guide, and dropping a new spring and brush in the hole; then re-installing and running them in. ; - )

Again, a fidget fest including parts most guys cant get anyway, was substituted for a simple, user friendly design that in many cases could be executed in situ. Subsequent redesigning of an end bell to essentially change things back; endemically carrys with it the implication, that something wasnt particularly great to start with.

A quick glance at the Decosmo and unlimiteds in general kinda makes the point.


What was always a reasonably non-invasive task, was changed to either a one and done replacement motor; or annoyingly hard enough to service, as to be totally not worth it, for the average bear.

Each to their own of course!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Either way I'd managed to make it work both ways, hence I have test chassis of both varieties in my arsenal which includes BSRT, Viper, Decosmo, Wizzard etc and I can also go both ways when setting up the commutator timing for my custom armatures.
 

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"...hard enough...as to be totally not worth it, for the average bear."--MM

Ya think? But we are very lucky indeed to have some non-average bears here (present company excluded).

Great, awe producing reading.
 
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