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NSR! Best non-mag car at GBSC but, the new cars all have the magnetic effect motors. Anyone now how much of an "effect" these will have for non mag class? The Sharks in the Fords are totally not mag atractive but when up against any newer NSR with these new motors, don't stand a chance.
( did I just answer my own question????
)
Also the new Lightening Ninco C4. The motor in there is as good as having a small magnet inside. Makes our non mag rally class cars look very pedestrian through the twisty bits. Why do this to us? Cars are expensive enough these days without having to replace the motors for less magnetic types before everything else.

Mr NSR, why?
 

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An A class driver from our club let me have a few laps with one the other night. Now apart from the fact that his car chasis , tyres etc etc are set up wayyyyyyyy better than my feeble effort, I still got it from my regular mid to high 8 sec laps down to consistently under 8 sec laps.

I was genuinely surprised. "Dear Father Christmas........."

I see what you mean about it spoiling a class though, you'll have to come to some agreement in the club, even if it means everyone being allowed to retrofit that motor in a given class - or everyone having to go to a certain motor to get away from the mag effect. What a kerfuffle, good luck.
 

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At the last round of SlotRallyGB we had an entry of a PowerSlot Polo with a 'Dodo' motor (aka high mag effect) - watching it run was like seeing a car with two normal magnetraction motors - it was way too quick around the corners.

On wood clearly they have no effect, but on plexy they are, IMHO, ridiculous, but if you are not breaking any club rules then why not.

We have banned this type of motor for SRGB 2013.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The Dodo was banned right away at GBSC but these new motors are a shame. I know I headed this with the NSR but the new Ninco is the worst culprit.
 

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The pink motor in the Avant Slot Manta is also like running with a magnet, it's a shame really as it spoils a good rally car, at least on a car that comes with a magnet you can remove it for no cost rather than spending another £10 on a non-magnetic motor.

In my opinion if you use a high magnetic effect motor then you're magnet racing, the trouble is that if your racing, if one racer fits one then to be competive everyone has to fit one and the only way to police them is to ban these motors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 30 Sep 2012, 19:21) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>In my opinion if you use a high magnetic effect motor then you're magnet racing, the trouble is that if your racing, if one racer fits one then to be competive everyone has to fit one and the only way to police them is to ban these motors.

That is how most of us feel. Hard on the lads who bought the Ninco C4 as a standard Ninco, which is what we run for our non-mag rally class. The car wasn't around in the lightening form when we drew up the rules for that class so, when it did appear, it was legal as a standard car in as much as it came out the box like it. It is glued to our Ninco track. Not fast on the straights but makes up for it in the turns.
As for the mag effect motor n general, Scaleauto do a god cheapish alternative but, when you've parted with upwards of 50 bigguns for a new car to race, the last thing you really want to do is have to junk the motor and layout more cash.
 

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You need to get a Magnet Marshall and then as a club decide on an allowed "maximum magnetic " downforce. Then allow people to retrofit new motors or magnets up to that limit. A bit rediculous for a supposedly non mag racing class. The alternative is to homologate only one motor for that class that is non mag and readily available to all.

In a car that weights 80 grams even a modest 30g mag assist will see you having a massive 37% extra traction. Just think about how much tyre treatment you have to do to get an extra 10 or 20% traction. You can get all that and more by using a mag motor!!

cheers
rick1776
 

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its a cheater motor. it will give you an advantage, even on wood tracks with braid. the neeext step will be cutting the sides of the can to achieve full mag effect and using neo,s in the can john
 

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Gentlemen and any Ladies present if this is the way N.S.R. are going then how do you ban them in the long run if you buy and race N.S.R. you are going to have to use this system eventually all will be running with it' it's in the meantime while there is a mix of motors you may have to split the class into two say non mag/with mag clever marketing though being forced to buy a new type of motor to keep up in a non mag class!!! Keith.
 

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We tried to compensate for the new motors, by upping the limit of the motor mag effect to 25 grams. You can now add a magnet to up your mag effect to 25 grams max just in front of the motor.
 

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QUOTE (valie @ 1 Oct 2012, 14:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>We tried to compensate for the new motors, by upping the limit of the motor mag effect to 25 grams. You can now add a magnet to up your mag effect to 25 grams max just in front of the motor.

But now it's not "No Mag".

Question. I thought I read that closed can motors have less mag effect. Is this correct?

If so then couldn't one mandate a thin 0.5mm? metal plate that has to be attached to the bottom of the motors of all cars. It can be tapped on with Aluminium foil tape. Would that work?

OR have separate classes like WRC, Group N class, IRC or whatever you want to call it. Guys who want magnetic motors run in a separate class or they have a time penalty.
 

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hy Mike yes yes and yess. but you,l stil have a residue of mag effect. if you go back through the forums, i asked about shielding the mag effect, and there was some good replies. john
 

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Not knowing a great deal about these types of motors, can anyone list the specific motor and brands which have this 'high mag' effect - i know this is, of course, subjective.

Thanks in advance
 

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Matt Tucker
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Gareth
depends where you put a cut-off point. In Spain where their rallies are run on SCX or Ninco track they specify that the motor must not exceed a certain magnetic effect (GAUSS rating), usually 10 (can't remember the unit).

However a good indication is the torque rating of a motor and that is determined by the strength of the magnet, although how much magnetic affect these have on the track depends on whether the motor can is closed or open. The latter significantly increasing the magnet attraction to the rails.

For details of torque ratings see:

http://slotcarnews.blogspot.co.uk/2007/02/...motor-list.html

Note I was say anything >200g/cm @12v would exhibit a noticeable effect.

You'll note from this all of the MB Slot motors are signifcantly over 200g as are the long can NSR and Slot-It motors.

At our club, even though we race on wood where magnets are purely ballast we specificy a standard motor for all of our classes expect the unlimited classes and F1. They revolve around the 20k and 25k short can scaleauto motors.

Matt
 

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Rich Dumas
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All of our tracks are now wood, one of them has magnetic braid and using a motor with extra downforce would make a difference there. I can say that while the extra downforce on a regular plastic track is not huge it is significant. We were doing a proxy race on a copper taped wood track and the computer died in the middle of the proceedings. Our last plastic track was next door, so we moved the race there. Certain cars that had been middle of the pack runners at best became podium contenders and those were the ones with high downforce motors.
 

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The unit of magnetic induction or flux density is infact the Gauss (represented as "G"). Something we are fairly keen on measuring when siting computers, network kit and automation equipment in an electronics factory!

My, what fun we had as youngsters in the computer rooms (now data centres), putting our mates wallets and security passes through the degausser!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
From what I can find, Scaleauto seems to be the best alternative long can motor to replace NSR Magnetic effect motors. Not too pricey and they do a good range. Painted cans too so easy to identify who's running what, if that is important for rev limits or whatever.
If money were no object and if there was the time and the will and a whole raft of other reasons, a routed copper taped track would be ideal. At GBSC though we run so many varied classes, some of which rely on the use of magnets, it's a non starter. Especially for the Saturday morning session for families. The littluns don't want their cars flying off the track at every corner. Save that for the bigguns on a Thursday night.
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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I have an NSR King 'magnetic effect' motor on just one car. The magnetic effect is totally minimal. You need a wickedly keen imagination and a lot of faith to expect that tiddly amount of extra magnetism to make any real effect.

I sometimes wonder why NSR don't give you a choice of motor mounts with their cars and let you buy your own separate motor.
 

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"I have an NSR King 'magnetic effect' motor on just one car. The magnetic effect is totally minimal. You need a wickedly keen imagination and a lot of faith to expect that tiddly amount of extra magnetism to make any real "

I can't believe I just read that, you must be having a laugh right ?
 
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