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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
Just had my first experience with the APB with SSDC and it was so cool, I was running with 2 pacecars! But know when i done, i thought of what to do to keep the cars and track in good shape? Towards the end to experienced that some of the cars was going a bit slower... mabey i just need to replace the blades, or is there any i should do? I have 3 guys coming over wednesday so the cars and track should be in perfect condition:)

Frederik
 

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Hi,

You can maintain your cars by cleaning the tyres with the sticky side of gaffer tape. Just roll each wheel on the tape to clean it. You don't need to take them off the car. Also, you can clean the braids with lighter fluid, just a few drops on each braid and then wipe with a clean cloth. If the braids are worn down then replacing them will help. I think some oil on the axle bearings could also help, not sure what oil to recommemend though but hopefully fellow members will post a reply with further or more details

Hope is ok

Matthew
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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4,279 Posts
Great advice Matthew, exactly what I would have posted.

I use a very light machine oil (mine is in an oil pen - very easy to use) for my axle bearings and a very light silicone grease for the crown and pinion gears. Does the job for me.

A new trick I learned this Thursday from an experienced club racer, was put a little bit of blu-tack - approximately 2 or 3 grammes, inside the body just behind the guide blade. It really does help keep the blade in the slot.
Another tip I was shown and it's very effective, was to coat the front wheels in clear nail varnish - the idea being they will skim over the track and not bite in at the corners - the result being it would pop your guide out of the slot.

Most of all, just enjoy having 4 racers and two pacers on the track at the same time! Good luck for Wednesday - try to take some photos or videos of the racing to share with us all.
 

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Prof I T
Ting Tong
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hi
braid condition is paramount for reliable times when cars are used a pacers.

Best thing to help in this matter is the good ole inox.
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,650 Posts
An easy way to lengthen the life of the stock braids is to fold BACK the end that is normally folded forward underneath the end that touches the rail. I don't know why they do it that way, but it comes from the factory like that. In practice, this results in the braids being pulled by every joint and turning into a matted mess of thin wire, resulting in nasty shorts and bits of braid in the slot. The remedy is easy. Lift up the long part and then use a fingernail or small screwdriver to lift the other end up, away, and down. BOTH ends of the braid on each side of the guide should be pointing BACKWARD toward the rear of the car. This way, the braids slide over track joins rather than catch on them. The braids will still wear out, but they won't get nearly as messy nearly as fast as they do if raced in the factory setup.

Also, NEVER pull/push a car backward while it's in the slot. Always lift the front to push it back, or take it out of the slot entirely, place it behind where you want it to be, and then push it forward in the slot to set it up. Pushing it back will snag and knot the braids for the same reason as above.

I also echo the recommendations of a light oil in the front and rear axle bushings (I use INOX MX3). For inline cars, a light grease on the crown gear. A drop on each braid as well, especially if you don't treat the entire track with INOX MX3. Less is more with all lubricants and braid/rail treatments, so be sure to wipe off any excess, and keep applications to a single drop.

Inevitably, you'll have a car stop working. The most common cause is that the "foot" of the "ferrite man" at the front has broken off. You'll need a soldering iron to fix it, which is a tool all slot racers should have on their bench. If you don't have one now, get one. Even a cheap pen one will do.

Keep the tires clean with some sticky tape. If they're right out of the box, running them on sandpaper will also help traction.

Good luck and have fun!
 

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Frederik, what you must do before racing on Wednesday is to clean the metal rails on the track. Digital is very sensitive to dirty rails - much more so than analogue. Even if it looks clean, it can be very surprising how much grime comes off the rails. I use Inox (thank you SlotForum) and a cloth - it works very well. I used to use Methylated Spirits (ethanol (one of the alcohols)) and it works fairly well. Never use anything abrasive such as sandpaper - only cleaning fluid and a soft cloth. Clean the rails in the hour before you race. Sometimes we find we have to clean the rails part way through a race meeting also. Enjoy!!!
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,650 Posts
If you get the INOX MX3 and treat the rails with it, you'll rarely need to clean them again. Without it, you'll find yourself needing to clean the track before each race. That gets very tiresome. INOX MX3 has rescued many tracks and racers from perpetual cleaning.
 

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For the track give the plastic a dust and "crimp" the rails. Thre is a SUperb link somwher on this showing exactly what to do helped by scaley pit crew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nooo i was just about to order some INOX MX3 at Chris99's source togheter with some track and mabey a car to save some freight cost to denmark, but noe they are not listet at them anymore? does anyone know someone who sell inox and scalextric stuff??
 

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Digital "Tea Boy"
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Guess it must be sold out as they still had some a few days ago...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just received thier answer and they are just our of stock and will receive a new before christmas:)
just hope i will receive mine before my raceday the 18 dec...
 

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Hi All

As I am not able to source the magic Inox in the darkest southern part of Africa, I went a looking for something else and found this stuff at my electronics supplier:



It is Kontakt Chemie's contact cleaner. It consists of a whole range of different chemicals to clean, protect etc etc electrical contacts and other electrical parts.

I've gotten these 2 specific products on the salesman's advise, applied it - with a bit of elbow grease - and viola, the rails are clean and smooth and my cars fly around the track.

Also sprayed it on the cars' braids, let it dry and then let them fly!

Has anyone else used these products before?

I'm interested to see how long it lasts before I need to re-apply.

It is not that expensive either - a can costs R70.00 - about 6 Pounds or close to US$8.50 and I have used about a third of both cans to clean my entire track for the first time.

Cheers

Theo
 

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Greg Gaub
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I've not seen that product in use before. Definitely let us know how long is lasts. A third of a can is a lot for the track, especially if you have to re-apply it every week or even every month.
 

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Greg,

I agree that a third of a can is a lot, but I did not mention that my tracks have never been cleaned before. Some tracks are 4 years old and in the last 6 months took a beating with all the dust and grime of the landscaping work done over and around them.

Thus I think for a first and thorough clean a 1/3 is not bad.

But the proof is in the pudding. Let's see how long it lasts with racing and landscaping around them.

Cheers
Theo
 
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