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Making custom decals

5585 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  gmac118
Hello Slot-friends,

I am one of those who really enjoy making re-liverys and create fictional liverys. I usually buy at least 1-2 ready to use decal-sheets just for stock, every time I order cars or other stuff.
But as you all know sometimes the decals you want doesn't exist.
And eager for that one unique livery as I am I try to create the decals myself. I don't know how well known the brand I use is. But I hope you can help an artist looking for a good tip.

Today I use TESTOR decal paper and the bonder to go with that.
The results... It is just OK! But only just, when using color on white paper the colors often bleed. And often the decals got wrinkles in the color (not the paper) and the white paper glowing through. (Usually corrected with a brush afterwards) The printer is good and everything. It's a Canon ip4200 so no problems there. And I use the bonder as instructed in the manual. Sometimes the result is better after application, and sometimes worse. And the uneven quality makes me turn to you guys for a good tip.

To make the above question short: What other decalpapers do you recommend? I rather go for a pricy one than a cheap one. So money is not the issue. And where can a guy like me from Sweden order it?

For the record, Im not a noob when it comes to decals and it's application. And the printer is fine!
I am simply talking about the fact that the brand I use today doesn't do the job i require and I am looking for something better!

Any help and tips is greatly appriciated

TACK, or in English THANKS!

/Nico
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I can recommend www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk They take paypal and credit cards. They post to Sweden and their service is superb. All you need is inkjet decal paper in either clear or white. I use Corel Draw and Adobe to create and size the decals. Print on "best photo" nothing less. When dry seal with acrylic clear spray and allow to dry. One coat is usually enough.

Here's one I did earlier.....



Good luck. Oh it's less than £1 a sheet probably.
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I use the same paper as Chris.
I use a little more acrylic spray tho - usually 3-4 thin coats.

The price is £1.55 per sheet.
Free P&P if you spend over £36.

I very rarely have errors. But it does happen. I usually put it down to an uneven spray of the lacquer.

Heres one i did earlier - all the decals you see are home made.
All done with white decal paper.

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Hi Nico,

I found some cheap decal paper on e-bay. Search for buyer cgroberg - very fast service.



This car is a carrera 1/32 ferrari 312PB body on a slot-it PB chassis. decals are made in CorelDraw and printed on a Canon inkjet printer on the above mentioned paper.

Niels, DK

www.racecars.dk
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QUOTE (Chrisfromcrewe @ 4 Apr 2008, 21:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I can recommend www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk They take paypal and credit cards. They post to Sweden and their service is superb. All you need is inkjet decal paper in either clear or white. I use Corel Draw and Adobe to create and size the decals. Print on "best photo" nothing less. When dry seal with acrylic clear spray and allow to dry. One coat is usually enough.

Here's one I did earlier.....



Good luck. Oh it's less than £1 a sheet probably.

Chris, Gray & Niels

Thanks a bunch, Next time I order decalpaper I will try the one you recommended. It will be great!
So, any acrylic lacquer will work with this paper? Tamiyas "Clear" spray maybe?

I love that homemade Lobster car Chris... really cool! And Gray, well you always end up making nice cars. I have always noticed your nice finish on decals (wich always makes for a better car). Niels, did I misundertood you? Do you mean that the Ferrari is a Carrera car. Isn't it a slot.it car?

Gray, based on what I have seen on your re-liverys so far I understand that you use "clear" decal paper at times. Do you get a satisfactory result when applying clear decals? The color of the car always kill the color of the decal when I use the so called TESTOR clear papers.

Again, thanks!
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The spray I use to coat the decals is an automotive clear lacquer that you use to cover metalic paint on 1:1 cars.
Its available in UK from Halfords. But i imagine you must have something similar in Sweden. Chris does one coat i do 3-4 coats.

Clear decals work well but only if the base colour of the car is light enough to take a clear decal.
You see Chris' clear red and black decals worked well on a pink car.
The decal has to be significantly darker than the colour of the car.

Ive had a look at my cars and the darkest colour i have used clear decals on is light orange or yellow. I have used clear decals on red cars but the decal has to be black or very dark blue and even then it doesnt really look right.

I probably use 2 sheets of white decal paper for every 1 sheet of clear.

Also if i use white decal paper on a dark colour I may put two layers of the decal on to make it whiter. Even when doing a gulf car and I put a white roundel on a blue body panel, it looks quite white but if you then apply another roundel over it you really will see the difference.

Another problem is where a decal goes over two different colours, a good example is a gulf car. I will usually apply two decals because you can see the dividing line between the light and dark colours under the decal. Alternatively you can apply a decal, let it totally dry. Then paint the decal white with acrylic paint. Let that dry and then apply another decal over that.



This car used white and clear decal paper. The bonnet decal just had one layer of white decal on it as the gold wasnt that strong a colour. Howeever the roof decal had two layers of decal because it went from dark to light underneath the decal.
The small decals on the gold parts of the car were done on clear paper but were done in bold colours like black and blue.
The small decals on the black back end were done on white decal paper and most of those used two layers of decal paper as one layer appeared grey when near the bright white door panel.

One tip for printing on clear paper when you are using it on a non white car - use the setting on your printer that uses most ink. This gives a bolder decal. I use a "Transparancies" setting.
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Nico, the Ferrari is the Slot-it Ferrari 312PB, but with a vintage Carrera 312PB body. I used the details from the Slot-it body (driver, engine copy etc)

The Carrera body is of the 1971 Ferrari 312PB car which I like better than the later models.

I'll post some more photos on www.racecars.dk later today.

Niels, DK
3
I hate you Graymalkin. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Decals can be a gateway to limited ability as in my case. Try as I may I just can't replicate the clear white decalling as displayed so brilliantly on that beautiful Newkie Mercedes.

This is my way of improving on the one colour scheme.

Downloaded an image and using Corel Draw 10 resized to match the car. It's amazing how after a time you will get a feel for size without going to too much trouble using scans of the car etc.

This was done with clear decal paper from crafty computer. I cut the decal up into 6 parts and then set it onto the car. The difficult bit was filling in the holes left for the racing rear spoiler so they were not visible. (any advice here would be appreciated). I thought the scheme looked better using the low rear spoiler from the street car.

The essential thing in all this is having a really good piece of software to stretch, shrink and cut the image ready for final use.





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QUOTE (Graymalkin33 @ 5 Apr 2008, 08:05) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The spray I use to coat the decals is an automotive clear lacquer that you use to cover metalic paint on 1:1 cars.
Its available in UK from Halfords. But i imagine you must have something similar in Sweden. Chris does one coat i do 3-4 coats.

Clear decals work well but only if the base colour of the car is light enough to take a clear decal.
You see Chris' clear red and black decals worked well on a pink car.
The decal has to be significantly darker than the colour of the car.

Ive had a look at my cars and the darkest colour i have used clear decals on is light orange or yellow. I have used clear decals on red cars but the decal has to be black or very dark blue and even then it doesnt really look right.

I probably use 2 sheets of white decal paper for every 1 sheet of clear.

Also if i use white decal paper on a dark colour I may put two layers of the decal on to make it whiter. Even when doing a gulf car and I put a white roundel on a blue body panel, it looks quite white but if you then apply another roundel over it you really will see the difference.

Another problem is where a decal goes over two different colours, a good example is a gulf car. I will usually apply two decals because you can see the dividing line between the light and dark colours under the decal. Alternatively you can apply a decal, let it totally dry. Then paint the decal white with acrylic paint. Let that dry and then apply another decal over that.



This car used white and clear decal paper. The bonnet decal just had one layer of white decal on it as the gold wasnt that strong a colour. Howeever the roof decal had two layers of decal because it went from dark to light underneath the decal.
The small decals on the gold parts of the car were done on clear paper but were done in bold colours like black and blue.
The small decals on the black back end were done on white decal paper and most of those used two layers of decal paper as one layer appeared grey when near the bright white door panel.

One tip for printing on clear paper when you are using it on a non white car - use the setting on your printer that uses most ink. This gives a bolder decal. I use a "Transparancies" setting.

Graymalkin,

Its been a while since I've pestered you for information.

Can you tell me how you colour match on the car above, mostly the golden brown? or did you just out very close to the edge (very impressed if you did with the round one)
Thanks

Colin
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Hi guys I have also tried to print my own dcals with limited sucess. I have used Testors white decal paper and Walthers clear decal paper. I have tried numerous printer settings to try ang get the best quality. I have an Inkjet HP2410 printer. ( middle of the range inkjet )
the Testors paper seemed to come out of the printer lookin nice and sharp and clear, but I couldnt ever get the ink to set properly. I experimented with varoius coats of clear lacquer but no luck. Always ink bleeding. This was more noticeable where 2 colours were next to each other, as opposed to 1 colour on white back ground.
With the walthers clear paper none of my printer settings seemed to work. The ink always comes out all ripplled.
Is there some sort of primer for these papers or
maybe if I used a better laser type printer????
may be the paper I'm using is just no good....help pls
I've never used Testors only Crafty but watch out for the following:

- Make sure you're using inkjet paper in your inkjet not the laser paper, bit obvious I know but it's easily done if you have both.

- All inks take a long time to dry, in damp or colder conditions, as much as 8 hours. Make sure your inks are fully dry, not just touch dry, before sealing

- Most people recommend using the transparency setting in your printer dialogue. I use Epson printers and found the best results were obtained by experimenting with the different Paper Type, Photo, Glossy Photo, etc. etc. It's an expensive way to find out but it does work.

- Are you using the lacquer recommended by Testors? I use Keen Crystal Clear and Halfords
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