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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Manspar Raceway is the new routed, 3 lane slot car track here at home. This is split from my old thread because all the photos have been updated and there's now a name for the slot car track. The track is 3.16 metres by 2.9 metres and is 1.2 metres wide. Each lane is approx. 20 metres in length.


1. Initial planning...



2. Clearing out the spare room...


3. Drawing the layout...




4. Making some adjustments...


5. Routing... Day 1...





6. Cleanup after some trial and error (quite a bit of error actually)...



7. Routing... Day 2...




8. Routing finished...







Thankfully, one router bit lasted the entire time. This week will be spent filling the nail holes and sanding the table down. After that it's time to put it on the tables and tape it up.


I'm going to paint it AFTER the tape is on so that the thickness of the paint will make the tape almost flush with the surface. I've learnt a lot about using a router and the various methods to get this working.

Each slot was routed in 3 odd passes and there is no variation in the sides on each pass. It worked a treat. We tried with the circular saw and although it cut alright, we didn't really have long enough straights to cut. I then decided to change the style of straights and we used the router instead.


There are more photos available at my website.
 

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Ian
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Denny,
Great work! And even better to do it with ONE router blade! Well done spent ages going through your pictures to just exactly where you are in the world? It's warm and you have a palm…. So southern hemisphere me thinks? Was initially worried that you may come into contact with a car heading the opposite direction but the clever way you have folded your track that can't happen.

The whole thing looks great and I look forward to seeing this develop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I live in Brisbane in Queensland, Australia. So yeah, the southern hemisphere alright.

I've had quite a few people ask about the cars hitting other cars in the opposite direction but I just tell them that if they have an accident like that then there is something wrong with the way they're racing... :S

It's going to be quite a challenging course as there is more emphasis on who will brake last into a corner than actually overtaking on the corners. Getting it on the tables tomorrow hopefully and then laying the tape. Painting will come later, once I find a decent paint. I wish I had a roller of some kind for the tape though. It just unravels when you unroll a bit of it...

I was hoping it would be done also Phil. I plan to have it running by the end of the week though. Mainly for the Easter holidays when everyone comes over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I test fitted the track on the tables today. Not much to go now. I bought a 4ltr can of Wattyl Solagard today for about $20 (normally $50) because it was a mis-tint but it suited me perfectly. If it's to smooth, I'll just run over the track with some fine sandpaper.

I'm going to finish the sanding tomorrow and hopefully lay some tape. After the tapes laid, I'll paint the top and put it all together. Hopefully I'll be running by Sunday. Getting excited now!





The joins don't look as good as I wanted them to but a bit of sanding and polishing should fix that.




I even have the added bonus of being able to fit my metal shelves under the tables (purely coincidental).


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Taping only took about 5 hours total thanks to the nifty device dad and I made. I've test run all three lanes and we just happened to have a "crab night" tonight so my nephews were over to help me test it.


Without paint, the surface is VERY slippery. Makes for some awesome drifting action though.







Next step is the wiring and then painting. After that I can start working on my computer program and the wiring for track control and timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did a bit of "preliminary" wiring today and it all works OK. I just sold my old gym set so I'm off to buy some proper plugs and sockets tomorrow (along with a new car maybe
).

I decided to start painting the track to get that out of the way. I taped up the lanes (the masking tape was the exact width of the tape and routed slot). The paint makes the copper tape sit almost completely level with the surface now (which is how I planned it). A bit of paint went under the tape on the corners but it's OK because you can just rub it off of the copper tape (and the cars will wear it away eventually).







Just one question though, what is the best solution to cleaning the copper tape? There is a lot of oil on the tape from fingerprints and paint. It's stuck to MDF board and it's the self-adhesive kind so I take it most solvents are out. A damp rag maybe? Can't be too wet because it's MDF board. Any thoughts?


The track also appears to be a bit slick. Maybe it's just me and I'll have to try it find out for sure. Over time the surface may "tack up" more?
 

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Ian
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Denny,
It's looking great keep the photos coming. A cloth with some dampened slightly with white spirit shouldn't do much harm to the adhesive obviously do your best to keep it off the paint work though it would help remove the paint on the tape at the corners, or some household cleaners that have a very strong citrus content might be the cure
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Finished painting today. We've already taken the track for a new test run. It's got a bit more grip but it's still slippery.






Now it's a matter of putting up some barriers (read: foam) around the outside to keep the walls from getting damaged. I also wired up my controls properly and now I just have to mount them onto the stand I want to use.


I also got a couple of presents over the last few days from Red Racer.



The Scalextric Aston Martin DBR9


And a Scalextric Porsche GT3R

I've already got a wishlist of cars I want to get. I'm also looking at some Spirit and Ninco cars as they go better on a routed track apparently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been playing around with the wiring and getting the tables into their final spots over the last couple of days (in between the racing that is!). I found out I wired the controllers wrong for Australian standards so I fixed that. Then I realised that the wires were around the wrong way so I didn't have any brakes. That's now fixed.

Putting the borders around the track was a pain as I couldn't stand the big board up after it was in place from the last time. It came together well though and I think it looks great.





I'm having second thoughts about the name though. I'm not that keen on "Manspar Raceway" anymore.

There's still a bit of work to do on the track itself in the way of ripple strips (probably only painted on) and lane markings to separate the 12 lanes on the corners. I also need to figure out how to paint inside the slots for the lane colours. Probably something I should have done BEFORE putting the copper tape down.
 

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Hi - excellent work so far.
How many man hours is that so far in total?

I was looking at pics and thinking you need the curbing effect to seperate the corners where you have what looks like 12 lanes on a corner. These need seperating into groups to give more definition to the track.

I painted these on the corners at Oxford Scalextric Club.





The way i did it was to use a sponge brush that i cut to size. (Its used to paint emulsion.) I painted a white band on the cork surface. Gave it two coats. Then let it dry.

I then got a piece of firm foam and cut it to the shape of the marlboro sign and i used it as a stamp. I glued the foam stamp to a piece of wood that was slightly larger than the stamp. I then ued the edge of the wood to use as a guide to space the stamps on the white painted strip. Giving me equal spacing between the red stamps.

The foam gave an uneven finish on the red sections so i then had to go in with a paint brush and fill in the red bits where the foam had not filled it properly. This gave a solid look to the red.

The guys at the club decided not to lacquer the strips for fear of making the outside lane too slippy.

You mentioned about making rumble strips on the borders too......... i was wondering if painting the borders however you like. Then using some pva you could then get a firm small wide flat brush dip it in pva and then just touch it on the border. Not spreading it or moving it, so that the brush left a line of pva on the border. This would then dry clear and give a ripple effect to the border.

Heres a pic of the stamp and the foam brush

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Your pictures don't seem to show up Graymalkin33. Sounds like a good idea but I'd have to see the photos to fully understand what you mean.

I like the idea of the PVA on the ripple strips. My original idea was to use the 3mm MDF but the cars ARE going to hit these strips so that put it out of the question.
 

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The track looks good. I bet you are glad you made 3 lanes.
Was the paint easy to get off the copper tape?
The 2 wooden tracks I have made I painted first then applied the tape.

Just a thought - on the second track I made I added silicon sand to a clear laquer for the last coat and it gave a fine sandpaper like finish to the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The track was originally only going to be 2 lanes but there is just so many of us that I had to make it 3. It was a tight squeeze to fit the 3 lanes in though.

To paint the table, I got some, 12mm I think, masking tape which just happened to be the correct width for the copper tape and slot and just masked the whole lot. In the areas where the paint did get onto the track, it was easily scrapped off. Some more cleaning by the car braids themselves got the rest of the paint off the tape.

I still haven't gone much further yet, although I have the controller stand built. Been to busy playing on it and trying to get my timing software programmed. I've also been going to the plastic track at Red Racer a lot the last week or so. Totally different tracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Things have been slow lately due to us racing on the track and me programming the timing software.

I'm up to the stage where I need to get the electronic components for the timer so I figured I'd make the timing gantry tonight.

It's a simple setup with a removable "lighting board" that the lights will be attached to. It slips over the border on the side of the track and screws into the base board of the track to keep it straight.





As usual, more photos on my site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have bought the Z1956 Infrared Receiving Diode and the Z3235 Infrared LED. I've wired up the LEDs and, I guess, they're working fine.

What I need help with is wiring up the receiving diodes. I'm wiring them to the printer port on pins 10, 11, etc... But just putting the diode in between the pin and ground doesn't work, unlike the photo-transisitors I used to have.

Does anyone have a schematic of how they're wired up?
 

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I went out and bought the correct components for the lap timing (Z1951) and lap timing works PERFECTLY.

The track is a bit slippery because we haven't raced on it in a few days but the lap times are around the 10.5 to 12 second mark. Now it's time to wire up the rest of the little features (track power, lane lights, start lights, track lights).

BTW... The new name of the track is Moon Valley Raceway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, it's been awhile but I have a few updates on the track. The old gallery totally crapped itself so I've had to re-upload all the images so none of the old images in this topic will work. You can still find all the images on my website though. You'll also notice that I changed the name of the track again. This is the last time I change it as I really like the name "Slider Park Raceway".

Anyway, onto the progress...

I finally sorted out where the timing computer goes and I've also hooked 2 monitors up to it because I'm using the PC Lap Counter software, which supports having a separate view for lap times.



At the moment I have a 21' monitor hooked up to the view but I plan on replacing that with a 17' one. 21' is just a waste when you can read a 17' monitor just a easy.



The controller stand is coming along and will soon have directional switches for each lane and 2 track call buttons to start/stop/pause races.



The timing gantry now has 3 lights on the top (red/green hybrid things). The red ones tick on and then go off at the start of a race and the 3 green lights come on when actually racing. Each lane is also individually powered now which opens the gates for features like false starts (default to 5 second penalty) and pit stops (running out of fuel and such).



I've replaced the barrier on the first corner with some lexan plastic so you can actually see the first corner when you're in the outside lane. I plan to eventually replace the whole front barrier with plastic. It really makes the track look a lot more open.



I managed to get my hands on the perfect sized bookshelf from my partners dad to. It's just the right width to fit between the track and the door and it's just deep enough to hold my cars nicely. It needs a paint job though.



And finally, I'm starting to get a decent collection of cars going. The latest one is the 4WD BMW on the end. I won that at a raffle held at Red Racer. It doesn't run to good on the plastic track up there but it's one of the fastest cars on my track.

 

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Well, it seems Slider Park Raceway is undergoing another name change due to a track already having that name.

I've come up with a new name and I've searched the forums to make sure no one else has it.

"Bray Sports Motorplex"

Named after my favourite top doorslammer driver, Victor Bray.

That should keep everyone happy.

The link to the gallery has also changed
 
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