[Dave Sykes]

Ok I give up.

last two attempts at masking have not gone my way. first was budget masking tape and paint bled through not too bad but latest project involved alternate black and white lines. I used tamia specialist masking tape but the paint seems to have soaked through the tape.
I am using water based acrylic paints.

Any suggestions please but Enamels are not an option due to the solvents.

Ta Dave.

 

[Race-Jan]

Strange, I have never had paint soak through the Tamiya tape (which is the only tape I use).
You could try to use less paint per coat, better put on several mist coats (and let dry inbetween) before putting on a wet coat.
I also use water based acrylic paint (Faskolor, in an airbrush), never had this happen to me and I've done a few

 

[Aurora]

That is strange, I've also never had any type of paint soak through Tamiya masking tape. What brand of water based acrylic paint are you using? Perhaps it has some strong solvent properties that are affecting the tape.

Maybe try a different brand of paint? Have you tried the Tamiya paints?

I'd agree with applying multiple, light coats, rather than heavy coats. Another thing to try is to apply a Clear coat over the tape. The Clear will seal the edges of the masking tape, preventing bleed under of the tape.

 

[Dave Sykes]

What do you mean by clear? a varnish coat or clear wax?
Cheers

 

[Aurora]

The coating that hobbyists refer to as "Clear" is, I believe, essentially the base coat of a paint, without the color pigment. I guess it could be considered a type of "varnish", in that it is transparent, and serves the same function of surface protection, but it's not what I usually think of when I hear the term "varnish". Varnish makes me think of a thick, hard, tough coating for wood products. "Clear" is generally a lighter surface coating, often used to seal decals and painted surfaces.

Next time you're in the place where you purchase your paints, look for something labeled "Clear". It should actually be labeled with that word. Most hobby shops should have it in stock. I believe that virtually every hobby brand of paint - Tamiya, Pactra, Testors, Humbrol, Gunze Sangyo, etc., - all offer a Clear. There are enamel Clears and there are acrylic Clears. There are different grades, or finishes, of Clear - Gloss, Semi-Gloss, Matte, etc.

 

[Race-Jan]

NO wax before you paint!!
A light coat of clear paint will help stop bleeding since you seal the masking tape with it.
keyword is light

 

[lowrider]

Dave, did you burnish down the edges of the Tamiya tape before you painted?
It's the best masking tape that I've ever found but you need to make sure you burnish, i.e. press firmly down with a round ended tool, the edges once it's applied.
Other than that I can only echo previous advice to use light coats of paint and in particular to allow the first one to dry (acrylic is slow drying compared to lacquer) before you shoot subsequent coats.

Good luck and don't give up,
L.

 

[Guest]

As said above light coats, about three passes. When I say passes, that means go past the model and then back again, this will stop build up on the edge of your model.

One tip which I discovered is, when you have masked the body and you are ready for the next colour, just go over the edge of the tape with the colour that is under the tape, if it bleeds under the tape it doesn't matter and that way you seal up the breed areas with the base colour... Simple!

 

[Dave Sykes]

Thanks to all.

Main problem seems to be soaking through rather than bleed. The 4mm masking seems to be fiberous and i did press down the tape but I will try a rounded tool next time. I also tried to use light coats with 24 hrs drying between.
Model is the Straker Squire and if you know this car you will understand the masking problem. What i have pulled off so far will give me a template to hand paint in the rest we will see.

Give up no way I love the airbrush just hate the troll up from cellar to clean it. My cellar steps are covered in sacs of spuds and onions from allotment after harvest.

 

[merkit the grof]

Dave, there is an alternative which is rather simple.
Spray clear decal in black, cut into strips and apply.
If you need to go over curves, spray with car paint, after about an hour the transfer will become as soft as chewing gum and can be applied to almost anything.

Much neater than any masking I have ever managed

Joel

 

[Guest]

Junk that masking tape and buy some that works, I use 3m masking tape, it's a bit like parsel tap (brown shinny) if your tape bleeds through why use it?

 

[superhornets]

Hi Dave
That is one difficult paint job you set yourself there ,I did think of doing one for seans brooklands races but the paint scheme deterred me
dont forget the red blob on the end of the tail

Cheers tony

 

[loud bloke]

Hi Guys
Just something else to try. I have had the paint drawn under the tape and someone told me to give the edge of the masking tape a wipe over with some lighter fuel to take the excesses gum away.
It worked for me.
See you all some time
Df

 

[Ian H]

I'd like to echo the use of varnish to seal the masking paint edges.

I used this technique for the first time on a McLaren rebuild and it works like a dream!

Wish I'd known about it years ago!

The line between the white and orange in the picture below was as sharpe as a tack!

 

[Phil Kalbfell]

Like others I have never had paint soak thru the Tamiya masking tape, I have used it with model paints and Automotive touch up paints, IMO the paint has soaked under the tape.