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Gregory Petrolati
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Hey folks you must think I don't have any life at all... You're right... I don't!

Here are a few shots of my mother-in-law's Xmas gift to me... It started out as a prepainted kit... Here it is all done. I was a very nice kit all in all... I was stressed to the max building it, for fear of screwing up... Happily I didn't (at least it doesn't show... too much)


I must say the kit went together very well with no major surprises. I runs pretty well too, but it's not destined for any serious crashing and bashing... Much too delicate for that!

Greenman62




Getting this car done means the Grand Sport Roadster is at the top of the roster, now.

Greenman62
 

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Greg

OUTSTANDING....... I wish I could do them half as nice as you do...... I love seeing your work. keep them coming....

Chris
 

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Another great job (loved the Healey) and very inspiring to me, thanks for sharing your work with us.

Can I just ask what the surface mark is that can be seen in the white stripe in the 3rd photo ?. Is it a flaw in the resin or something ?.

Looking forward to seeing your next project.
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
QUOTE Can I just ask what the surface mark is that can be seen in the white stripe in the 3rd photo ?.

It's a bit of a problem of my own making...

When I started to clearcoat the car that area of decal crawled a bit. I used some fine abrasive to take off the damaged decal but was afraid to go much further for fear of damaging the paint underneath. I overlayed new decal over the old which is the texture you see in the third shot. I use tamiya clear over most paints and decals to seal and protect the surface. I guess it was a bit too hot for the decals Maxi Models uses.

Greenman62
 

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Thanks for the explanation Greenman, another example of Tamiya Clear attacking decals


Stilll a cracking model though and I doubt that it is really that noticeable, after all that photo is a close-up !

I read on a modellers site that the safest way to apply Tamiya Clear over decals is to start with a very fine dusting, maybe even two or three layers before applying a more usual thickness coat.
 

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As if it needed saying again- beautiful job GM!
I'm afraid to say mine's been crashed and bashed a fair bit- the wing's been off more than once, the tripod mirror's been straightened out several times and it's had a bit of retouching but it's still one of my favourite cars. Can't resist racing it. I've more than had my money's worth out of it. Maxi-Models are truly great.
I'd love to get one of their light weight shells- money permitting. There is a fair amount of ballast in that Lola- especially the white metal valances!
 

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Excellent work as always Greg.

Howmet - I have the Gurney 160 lightweight shell which is superb but I haven't decided on whether to fit the Fly chassis as intended or have a go at a scratchbuilt.

I agree about the standard of Max Winters product, the standard is superb throughout the range from the bodyshell through to the tinniest accessory part , he takes pride in every detail and seems to source the best supplier for everything. And a nice man to deal with as well.

David
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
QUOTE (Fergy @ 13 Jul 2004, 17:00)Which Tamiya clear did you use? The X-22?

I use TS-13 (that's what is available here).

I commonly shoot several light "fog coats" of clear before moving on to a heavier coats of the same.

I have learned to be careful with my home made laser printed decals they too need a number of light coats and careful handling at application as the fused powder can flake off.

Greenman62
 
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