[Reggio3]

Hi Gang, I am to modern H.O. SCALE, have experience as a child with aurora t-jets.. My question - how to take apart mega-g chassis for cleaning, maintenance or mods...I can't find any diagrams, vi;s, guides . etc. for any of the tomy-afx chassis's. I have megaig, srt and super-g+. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[woodcote]

Hey Reggio, welcome to SlotForum

First thing to say is that the Mega-G is designed not to be taken apart. As it is a toy, it complies with strict US and European regulations that ensure even the most inquisitive child cannot ingest or inhale any small part.

So, the wheels stay on and the motor and traction magnets don't come out. The pick-up shoes, springs and the rear axle are designed come out to be replaced by spares. So too the pinion gear and guide pin. All these parts are available in the Mega-G Tune-Up Kit. This is from the back of the pack:

It's also possible to change the armature, brushes and brush springs. Scale Auto sell the armatures (Wizzard armatures fit too). The brushes and springs can be replaced with standard Wizzard components. Scale Engineering produce plastic motor bushings for the Mega-G.

The main thing for maintenance is to keep the chassis and components clean - I do this with cotton swabs to remove dirt and tweezers to remove any hair or fibres. Oil very sparingly on the front motor bushing and the gears. Change the pick-up shoes when they wear through.

The pick ups come off rather like the T-jet. They hook over the brush tubes in a way that does always ensure good connection. If you close that hook very slightly, you'll get a better connection.

There are some hop-ups you can do. One is to increase magnetic downforce by 'flipping' the traction mags:

Let us know if you want to know more

 

[Reggio3]

Thanks, woodcote. Yes , more questions - to remove arm., do you have to spread chassis somehow to get motor mag.s out, and brush tubes, springs and brushes- just pull up n out... ?

 

[woodcote]

No need to remove the motor mags

I disassemble in a deep tray or shallow box. I remove the rear axle and unhook the pick-ups. Then I remove the brush barrels by pushing the inner ends down (and so catching the brush & spring in the receptacle) and the barrels come out easily. Then push up the front flange of the front motor bushing with a small screwdriver and push up the pinion to unhitch the rear bushing. The arm should now come out with a pit of a push from below.

Although there's no need to remove the motor mags to remove the armature, they do come out. You have to do it both forcefully and very gently at the same time - there is a big risk of breaking one of the retaining lugs on the chassis and ruining the chassis. I did it

The traction magnets come out with a lot of force with a small screwdriver. And go back in with the same. If you doing the 'flip' make sure you mark one surface with a sharpie before removing them. The 'flip' really does increase the grip significantly.

On the front, grinding down the front tires increased the front-end stability.

 

[Reggio3]

Thank you much, very helpful.

 

[John Stezelecki]

Reggio3,
Very nice job with full explanation. Thank You
Stez

 

[Ogre]

Once you are good to go with the above, you may want to try this.

http://hcslots.com/museum/megagmodified.html

 

[woodcote]

I tried a couple too:

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=608512

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=672545

Both pretty damn fast

I ran this one on Wednesday night at our club and it was right up there.

One big problem was that it popped the rear bushing 5 times during the night, wrecking two heats and the 'A' final - which I could have had a chance of winning...

Are the stronger mags (N42) stretching the chassis? Would a gear saver hold the pinion and axle more secure? Would spacing the armature to stop any longitudinal movement help? Is the Tyco axle moving around too much?

Any advice from either side of the pond much appreciated