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Mega g (non plus)

830 Views 14 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Glock24
How rare are these? It doesnt seem like many are findable on EBay (one new sells 250). I’m really curious as to how they perform. They seem to be the mega g plus with an armature instead of a motor?
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How rare are these? It doesnt seem like many are findable on EBay (one new sells 250). I’m really curious as to how they perform. They seem to be the mega g plus with an armature instead of a motor?
A little extra beef to this, I bought a giant raceway used for 180 on ebay, it seems to be a version with Mega Gs. Assuming it was not mismarketed, I may have one of these cars in 1-2 weeks.
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I had the same query and wanted to acquire a Mega G chassis, but they are scarce and expensive. I'll get one when/if I find one at the right price.
I had the same query and wanted to acquire a Mega G chassis, but they are scarce and expensive. I'll get one when/if I find one at the right price.
I found an ebay listing bidding on 176 currently with 4 of them used + a mega g plus + a used giant raceway. Definitely going to bid up a lot, although seems like a steal if it goes for anything near that price. TOMY AFX Giant Raceway Formula One 62.5' HO 1/87 Slot Car Track Set 70289 | eBay
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i thought that i bought a bunch of these chassis from buds a while back but only 1of them is like these .
6 are the kind with the can motors. i bought then for my custom resin bodys that i cast years ago.
now im working on my full size old project cars.
I could not find a regular dealer that still had complete AFX Mega G cars in stock or rolling chassis for that matter. I bought a single Mega G car for test purposes when they came out in 2013. I found a review of the Mega G+ cars dated 2015, so the Mega G was only produced for a couple of years. The Mega G car cost me $29.
2 questions please--

**Mega G vs Mega G+. Which is faster?

**Has anyone tried a Mega G+ with a 60 ohm controller (yep, I know the sets come with 120s)?
The MG+ was initially the: "Mega Gee whizz, it's slower".

AFX dropped support for the MG. Human memories are typically short. New customers never knew better in the first place. Like a vampire hitting sunshine, dust in the wind happens fast.

If you want to get close, shop at chassis at JAG hobbies.

Notably: They are more similar in name than execution, the + has some nice, well thought out features. I likem'.
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Have to add something to the discussion:
I have both (with and without the plus), but like the Mega G far better. Main reasons:
  • The can motor in the G+: nice for beginners. But if it’s done, there’s no way to replace parts or the motor itself. They’re not sold separately. Also no way to measure or swap motor magnets or armatures in order to find matching parts.
  • The Mega G handles better, especially in lower speed
  • More tuning and tweaking options for the Mega G, especially if you don’t want to spend any more money, or if you are limited by racing regulations. For example the magnet swapping option: if you flip the traction magnets 180°, you reduce downforce, but get higher max speed. So you can easily adapt to two types of tracks: curvy ones or those with long straights.
  • I like the sound better
Surely there are more aspects, and this list is totally subjective. The Mega G’s are hard to find, maybe ask around a bit. Luckily I found a lot of 7 in mint packaging for a reasonable price just recently. Maybe I sell some, if so I can PM you
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I believe that the goal with the Mega G car was to have a chassis that was more compact than the ones used for the Tomy Super G+. Modern prototype type bodies could be mounted on them. The Mega Gs were a bit slower than SG+ cars because they had a little less magnetic downforce. Eventually US regulations were passed concerning RFI, that resulted in the switch to can motors and RFI filters. There had been RFI regulations in Europe for some time. The Mega G+ has powerful neodymium traction magnets for good grip, however the motor magnets provide little or no magnetic downforce. That results in a car that is more likely to deslot suddenly. Some people like to add a little weight at the front of the cars.
My club never raced Mega G cars, we do have a class for Mega G+ cars that have to be stock, except that we use resin bodies.

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Didn’t AFX meet those regulations decades ago here in Germany with the Magnatraction, using suppression capacitors soldered to the chassis? Or is this a regulation about children’s safety?

I rather think they were trying to make cars more „user friendly“, more like the Carrera / Scalectrix approach, aiming at a younger customer basis. No doubt those can motors are a lot easier to maintain. Not everyone likes to maintain their kids toys constantly nowadays.
Less parts to tinker with means less parts to collect dust, less parts to keep oiled and less trouble with customer complaints about clogged moving parts. Maybe I’d like those Mega G+ better, if AFX sold those can motors separately (or stronger/faster ones for racers). But if your can motor dies you are forced to buy a whole new chassis. And no one knows how well those electronic boards behind the can motor age.
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I did try a Mega G+ with a 60 ohm controller, with the track set at 18.5 volts it was borderline drivable on my track, which is not very technical.
The only place that I know of that sells stock replacement motors for these cars is JAG Hobbies. In that case they come from disassembled complete cars and the motor, pinion gear and RFI filter board are sold as a unit. As for replacing the motor with something more powerful I would not recommend trying that. You would probably have to dump the RFI filter, soldering that to a new motor would be very difficult. Without the weight of the board the front of the car would be too light. The motor that AFX uses is custom built and is not nearly as powerful as any N20 motor that I have tried. The brand X N20 motors from China are problematic at best. They are all over the place in performance and may not have copper/carbon brushes. You would be likely to end up with a car that is very difficult to drive unless you turn down the track voltage or include a dropping resistor.
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This and everything mentioned before is why I don’t expand my collection of Mega G+. Maybe buy some as an investment and keep them closed, as prices of some discontinued models are going through the roof.
A little more in depth than speculation. It's half bad, and it's half good. The actual truth lays somewhere in the middle. The MG+ is a great chassis, unfortunately the ancillary components leave something to be desired.

Removing the board is a Can - O - Corn. Runs and drives fine, and the voices in my head are gone. The board weighs next to nothing. This frees up a ton of room for snugger body work, or a front screw post. I needed both.

The part they wont tell ya. Changing the motor takes skillz, and or "secret/hidden shunts" as seen in this photo. Never seen or heard of, these "hard" shunts are what makes the MG+ motor and board into a single, stiff, module; which can be pried in and out of the chassis, but so's lil Johnny can swallow it.

The MG+ uses these tricky little shunts to extend the current path from the motor lugs, out, under, and through the mind control board. They wont easily de-solder at the comm lug because of the mass solder they use to attach the shunt to the lug. One really has to try hard to muff the board removal at the end of the shunt.

At a glance, the residual particles on the motor looks like they used a spatula worth of soldering paste on each lug; which might explain how they got that much solder x 2, to pole vault onto the shunts without melting the comm box. (note the above photo)

When the motor is removed from the board, clamp the board firmly, latch onto the brush hanger with a hemostat, heat the solder and pull. They pull right out. New lead wires are easy to install. Both the extended motor shunt and the shoe hanger are already tinned. Dot dot dot dot ... done!

Affixing a NEW motor to an existing board is an entirely different story. Care has to be taken to not over heat the comm lug and melt/displace the brush spring and lug by re-melting the plastic factory retainer button in the comm housing. I would sooner dispense with the board altogether and affix wire leads as above, using either the existing factory shunt on a viable factory motor, OR simply tinning directly to the comm lug on a new motor.

I'm dubious of successfully undoing whats been done by the factory at the comm housing.

Crown gear and wheels pressed onto "gnarled" axles renders them all ruined and useless for exchange or re-use. Note that I intentionally didnt use the appropriate "knurled". Ghastly stuff.

Is it a disposable chassis? For the normal end-user, yeah, 'fraid so. One is not intended to work on or modify the MG+ save for tires, shoes n springs, and clapping your hands in apology.

Me, I'm just stubborn to a fault, and grateful for something to play with. If I dont like it, I just scribble out side their lines and doodle over onto the margins.
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This is more or less why I don't like the Life Like "T" chassis, the motor is soldered in place and it is nowhere to be found for replacement. The guide pin is part of the chassis, although with some creativity it's possible to replace it.

Just like the MG+, the "T" chassis can be considered "disposable".
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