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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I seem to be expressing a very unhealthy (unholy?) interest in these things lately - blame my club for running too many magnet classes!

Last meeting, among other classes, we ran one for oldish Scalextric LMPs, Sauber-Mercs, and Porsches, maybe something else that I don't remember. All supposedly box standard. But, although in theory they all sported the old weak rectangular magnet, there was no way the Saubers could run with the others around curves and so I did a bit of checking underneath. The Sauber's mag is stuck straight to the chassis, but the others appear to have small screwed on metal fillets between the mag and the chassis, thus presenting the magnet a tiny bit closer to the track - enough that I reckoned I could FEEL a small difference in just gently lifting the rear ends by hand. Certainly the cars were not on parity.

So my thought for next time is that a little paper shim or two inserted between the Sauber mags and their chassis could equalise this.

My question is this.
Does anyone know what solvent to use to detach the existing magnets, without the damage that can occur using just a screwdriver and brute strength? Also the best type of glue to put them back firmly enough but not welded for all eternity? Maybe someone has done this particular operation before?
 

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Mark is right as that will work. I have to change these all the time for the kids. A ladies nail file will go under the mag mswithout breaking them and super glue isn`t super and will hold the mag in place and you can still remove them if you add a little bit of spit to the super glue. This addition of spit to super glue will make the glue stick instantly and is a good tip if you are in a hurry to stick something together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am taking all on board - thanks chaps.
The broad chisel sounds like a good idea - I can't afford to throw away expensive mags, Grah!

Unfortunately, my ignorance is probably superior to my brute strength these days!

Spitting in super glue is a new one on me! I'll try that.

The reason I may need to pop mag off and on a few times is that I will need to experiment with the shim thickness. When I get it right - I'll show those Porkie drivers what's what, next time we run this class!
 

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Should say that you only mix third spit to amount of glue and use cocktail stick to stir it into position.

"And now with me bare hands and without the aid of a safety net!" Health and safety guys, don`t go mixing the glue in yer mouth eh!
 

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On a similar tack, has anyone ever successfully removed the mugnut from one of the recent inline Nascars?

I've a vague kind of idea along the same lines as Tropi here that I could equalise out the performance advantage of the sidewinder cars by lowering the magnet on the inlines. Thing is, it appears to be very well recessed into the chassis, so I'm loath to have a stab.

Maybe if I hear the back of the chassis I might ease the glue? Do ya think?
 

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I`ve changed those quite often at the club without encountering a problem but prefer now to just grind the back tyres down a little bit more than normal to get the magnet lower. I should point out that at the club I also provide all the cars and equipment for those who don`t own them so It is always a job to try and get the cars equal. In the case of the Nascars I find that the sidewinder is better all round and to be honest you can get close to it but not on par with an in line. Just my opinion and experience from running you know where based on running four meetings a week...Nascar is very popular as they are great racers and one car classes always make close racing nites!
 

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Thanks for that Mr S. I'm thinking it's more doable than I thought, but...

QUOTE I`ve changed those quite often at the club without encountering a problem...

And you just prised the little fella's out of there? No special techniques required?
 

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Jesus wept, Jonny!

I've just spent forty minutes stripping down the chassis and trying to get various screwdrivers into the itty bitty gap; no, that's an exageration, it wasn't a gap at all, too fine to be called a gap; between the mugnut and its recess. All to no avail.

So I tried flexing the chassis: pushing hard here, bending out there. After a while I heard a nice crack and thought it was the glue giving up. Nope. It was the little bit of chassis along the motor side cracking. Mugnut still comfortably in residence. Argh!

By now giving in was not an option. I continued the judicious naked use of brute force and ignorance (one I carry a surplus of, the other....) with more bending and easing and then after a while the little ****** just seemed to plop out.

Man, oh man. My thumbs hurt.


Still, I'm pleased I persevered.
 

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Sounds like you had fun! Bet you thought I set you up? Not at all ! I honestly haven`t had a prob, sometimes used a nail file to start the thing moving but as I said I prefer now to grind the rears down.
 

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QUOTE Bet you thought I set you up?

Oh, Mr Touchy. I can see I've got to choose my words oh so carefully. No, I did not think you had set me up. I did think you must have thumbs a damn sight fatter than mine though!
Man it was hard work.

But worth it. I had no idea that the inlines had a different magnet to the sidewinders. It all makes more sense now. Guess I'll have to see if I can get the beefier ones as spares and try one.

Also didn't appreciate that the transverse beasties had multiple positions for the little ferrous fiend: you can tell how much I fettle some of my cars can't you. Something else to play with - shame I broke one of the locating lugs off of the rearmost position with my own fat thumbs!

Hmmm, I'm thinking you were yanking my chain with the 'set up' bit, eh Jonny?
 

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I was just pulling yer leg. Sometimes it doesn`t come across that well in the written format?

Glad you cracked it. Must admit that today I read the latest Scalex brochure and was dead chuffed to see the release of their range of pinions,gears,axles and silicon tyres. Sounds interesting and feel sure that this will help their cause (and mine). Would still like to see a range of different motors but I reckon they are working on that
 
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