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Hi all

I've just got some NSR metal axle spacers. With the old plastic ones I just cut them and twisted them over the axle. What can I do with these, do I need to remove the wheels and if so how - brute force (mainly modern Scalextric cars)?

Cheers
Chris
 

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Circuit Owner
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!!!


I would take the wheels off mate - even for the plastic spacers.

With plastic wheels it is the application of brute force but carefully applied. Grip both wheels (making sure the two wheels in question are, in fact, connected to the SAME axle). Twist the wheels in the opposite direction to each other whilst pulling them directly away from each other. The plastic wheels should come off quite easily. If they have been glued onto the axles then it will require a little more effort.

Fit the spacers - being very careful not to accidentally cut the metal ones. Refit the plastic wheels with a straight push. If the wheels rotate on the axle without the axle rotating you will need to take the wheel back off and apply superglue (CA glue) to the end of the axle and refit the wheel with a straight push. Close your eyes just in case the superglue spurts out under pressure as air is forced out of the wheel cavity.

If you want a little more purchase of the wheel on the axle you could consider pinching the very end of the axle with the wire cutting bit of standard pliers. Just enough to mark the metal. Go steady with older Scalextric models as the axles are quite soft and you can cut very deep if you apply too much force. This won't work with hardened axles but works well with most standard axles. I tend to pinch twice at each end at right angles.

Have fun
 

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You do need to remove the wheels-then the spacers should just slip on. Metal spacers are really for use with set-screw wheels I would say. Personally, I prefer to use stoppers if there is room on the axle. This allows you to place the wheel exactly where you want on the axle.
TED..

Merry Christmas and a great new year to slotters everywhere!

HPSCC-scale racing on Merseyside.....
 

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Johnny Fuglestad
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Newer Scalextric have knurled axles, im not sure NSR spacers go over the knurled area. Why not just use plastic tubing?
 

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I'm guessing the knurling is the point here...

I've cracked hubs getting wheels off the knurling which means they aren't 'true' when you put them back on too! Why do Scaley do that?

Best to replace the axle and the crown with another brand.
 

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Thanks guys. A couple of clarifications please:
QUOTE (Mr Modifier @ 21 Dec 2011, 00:10) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If you want a little more purchase of the wheel on the axle you could consider pinching the very end of the axle with the wire cutting bit of standard pliers. Just enough to mark the metal. Go steady with older Scalextric models as the axles are quite soft and you can cut very deep if you apply too much force. This won't work with hardened axles but works well with most standard axles. I tend to pinch twice at each end at right angles.
Is that with the plier grooves perpendicular or parallel to the axle?

QUOTE (tedm @ 21 Dec 2011, 00:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You do need to remove the wheels-then the spacers should just slip on. Metal spacers are really for use with set-screw wheels I would say. Personally, I prefer to use stoppers if there is room on the axle. This allows you to place the wheel exactly where you want on the axle.
Stoppers??

QUOTE (mrrc65 @ 21 Dec 2011, 00:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Newer Scalextric have knurled axles, im not sure NSR spacers go over the knurled area. Why not just use plastic tubing?
I have used lolly pop sticks but it was difficult to get a smooth finish. Do you have a particular type of tubing in mind?

QUOTE (conti_rowland @ 21 Dec 2011, 07:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Best to replace the axle and the crown with another brand.
I imagine that is the best option (especially for competition) but part of the challenge for me is to get the best out of the car as-is (sans magnet) by tweaking it and only changing the tyres. Otherwise I probably would sell the house and go straight for the premium brands of cars.
 

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Circuit Owner
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Pinch so that the mark is at right angles to the axle. In other words the pliers are pointing the same way as the car's direction of travel. The aim is to make the axle splay slightly (the mark isn't the aim - the mark simply means some metal has been displaced to make the axle ever so slightly wider. I suggest two pinches (one is a quarter turn around the axle from the other) so the axle is distorted symmetrically (!). If you do use glue then the marks should also help it get a grip on the axle.

If the axle is knurled then the plier trick is obviously redundant - just go with glue.

With regard to the poster who said he had cracked a few hubs pulling wheels off knurled axles - it's not a problem I have encountered and I have pulled wheels off over 40 different Scalextric cars in the last few months. ALL with knurled axles. But this is why I suggest a rotational action on the wheel with a straight pull in line with the axle - it minimises the risk of a crack.
 

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QUOTE (conti_rowland @ 21 Dec 2011, 06:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I'm guessing the knurling is the point here...

I've cracked hubs getting wheels off the knurling which means they aren't 'true' when you put them back on too! Why do Scaley do that?

Because Scalextric never intended the standard wheels to be removed.
 

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Stoppers are available from a number of sources such as MB Slot and Slot-it. How to describe what they are? They are a small metal collar with a set-screw which you tighten on the axle. They do the same thing as spacers but leave some of the axle exposed so you can place the wheel on the axle without needing to find a spacer that is just the right size,if you see what I mean. Can anybody explain that better?
TED....
 
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If you have Scalextric cars only, the best way is to use plastic spacers. Just cut a slot in the plastic shim with a knife and push fit it to the axle.

Do not remove the plastic wheels as mentioned in the above posts, You will have to use the metal spacers on cars that have hubs that are removable with grub screw.

No easy way of saying this, you have bought the wrong product for your needs.

Use Pendle's plastic 1/32 axle spacers, job done.
 

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QUOTE (tedm @ 21 Dec 2011, 22:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Stoppers are available from a number of sources such as MB Slot and Slot-it. How to describe what they are? They are a small metal collar with a set-screw which you tighten on the axle. They do the same thing as spacers but leave some of the axle exposed so you can place the wheel on the axle without needing to find a spacer that is just the right size,if you see what I mean. Can anybody explain that better?
TED....

One problem of using stoppers on Scalextric axles is that they have a larger diameter hole than the smooth part of the scalextric axle.
That means that when you clamp the stopper up using the set screw, the stopper sits off-centre, and therefore it's considerable mass is imbalanced on the axle, which creates vibration or rocking of the axle = "not smooth"

I think our thread starter should set these aside for other use, and go back to plastic/nylon axle spacers.
The method of snipping the spacer so it becomes like a split washer, then folding over the axle and pressing flat is quite okay.
It just requires removal of the axle and bushes from the car, and a bit of trial and error to obtain snug but not tight fit again when everything is pressed back in place.
 

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Chris99
As stated you run the risk of damaging Scaly Wheels when removing them from their knurled axles and it is best to leave well alone. If you are adament that the NSR axle spacers MUST be used, try dropping the Scaly Wheels in hot/warm water for a few minutes before you attempt to "twist & pull" the wheel off the axle.
Worth noting that some wheels are better than others - Indy car wheels are pretty good whilst the smaller (and older designed) wheels on the American classics (Camaro etc) will split if you look at them sideways!
brembo
 

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Hi, I allway's make my own spacer's from the clear plastic packaging that a lot of item's not only slot related come in with thin and thicker type's it offer's adjustability, I just use a pinvise to drill a hole in the plastic say 2.5mm cut out a square around the hole about 5mm then trim the corner's to make it a bit more rounder then cut a V into the hole to leave it like a circlip them with needle nosed plier's clip on to axle. With a larger gap I use tube spacer's I have some of my nephew's old paper flag's we got from Mac's which have just the dia needed plastic flag stick don't think they do them anymore( could see dad going in to get a Happy meal for the kid's just to get the flag's ). phil.
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Modern (2000 onwards) Scalex cars don't need axle spacers. The most an axle is going to shift sideways is 0.5mm and this is what's needed to stop friction and binding, especially when dirt eventually gets trapped around the axle.

If you tug off Scalex wheels you'll never get them on right again as the axle ends are hexed; they chew the internal plastic hubs something terrible.

Do youself a favour and live with a little axle movement.
 

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An interesting selection of views. At £2 I can live with abandoning the metal spacers.

I must say though I guess the movement on some of the cars is more than 0.5mm especially on my Aston DB9 and Sunoco Camaro. Putting urethanes tyres on has certainly accentuated the clicking as they have much better grip on corners. However, I haven't properly compared before & after and I have to admit I didn't notice a measurable difference in performance when I put plastic spacers on them - maybe it's more a psychological problem as the clicking just makes them sound bad & cheap I suppose.

Anyway, just to broaden the subject a bit, nobody's mentioned super glue to fill the gap - anyone recommend this?

Chris
 

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"If you tug off Scalex wheels you'll never get them on right again as the axle ends are hexed"

Simply not true Screwneck

With care I have successfully removed and replaced hundreds of these wheels and raced them very competitively afterwards on wood tracks. As already stated simply twist and pull the wheel off, warm the wheel first in hot water if you feel it is necessary.
When replacing the wheel apply a small amount of low viscosity superglue on the axle, then twist and press back on gently but firmly.
I will admit that as Screwneck implies they can be a problem and every so often you will get a failure but hey you have to take a few risks in life - thats what its all about - LOL
cheers
brembo
 
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