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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I like the fine grain Milliput for both filling and remodeling bits and have used it for some time. Last year I found my stock had hardened so I bought a new supply and used a bit.

I used some 2 days ago - appeared to be OK - pliable and not discolored -(It had been re-wrapped in it's original clear wrap and stored , a room temperature, in a sealed poly bag) After thorough mixing and application, it has yet to harden - is is firm and well adhered but gummy when sanded.

Any tips on expected shelf life and/or alternate storage schemes? I use it in small amounts and it is about $12+ per pack here.

thanks

EM
 

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Alan Tadd
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4,035 Posts
Alan.....Try the refrigerator, it seems to work for adhesives. I would suggest placing the Milliput into sealed containers, (should be available at any Supermarket)

Regards

Alan
 

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Administrator
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I use the fine white Milliput and usually take about 3 or 4 years to finish a box. I haven't experienced any problem with it going off but I do tightly re wrap it in it's cellophane sleeve after each use.

David
 

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John Roche
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4,203 Posts
I've just used some that's a couple of years old to repair a fibreglass body I damaged at the Bath Retro meeting. I'll find out how well iot has worked at the Early Bird GP.



John
 

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Brian Ferguson
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3,652 Posts
From the Milliput web site:

QUOTE Shelf Life:
We recommend Milliput is stored in cool, dry conditions. Please reseal bags after use. Stored correctly this product should remain workable for about 2 years.
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Interesting - my workshop is in the basement. It rarely goes above about 65 F and, becasue of all the tools I have there, a dehumidifier runs 24/7/365. (Of course, I have no way of knowing how long MicroMark had it in their stock)

In any event, not a crisis since I was using it on a mold pattern*, not a finished body. Paint has dried on it and it is more than strong enough to pour the mold.

Thanks, everyone, for the replies.

EM

* " A mold of what?", one asks. "Ah, that would be telling" he replies. All to be revealed in due course.
 

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Brian Ferguson
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3,652 Posts
QUOTE Of course, I have no way of knowing how long MicroMark had it in their stock

This could be part of the problem, especially if their warehouse is warm and humid, as it may well be in the summer?


I have had other types of two-part epoxies "go off", often usable if I use something other than the recommended mix ratio, but it's hit-or-miss and the cured product is not likely as strong as when fresh.

Now... hurry up with that mold and let us see the creation!
 

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1 hp Trabant is not my real car
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770 Posts
I once painted a 1:1 FJ40 Landcruiser using 2 pot paint (correctly mixed) that only cured down to a gooey gel....now that was fun to get off


Back on topic, I bought some Milliput from a shop and when I went to use it a week later, found it was so dry as to be unworkable, the outside being almost crumbly. Unfortunately I had left the country in which I bought it, so could not take it back
Moral: buy from a shop you know has proper storage and good turnover.

Cheers, Tom.
 

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Administrator
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QUOTE (Ecurie Martini @ 7 Jan 2005, 16:59)* " A mold of what?", one asks. "Ah, that would be telling" he replies. All to be revealed in due course.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A clue to what this is could be might be contained in this sentence from EM in another post in a Pit Lane thread.

"Most of my 1/32 cars are conventional rear inlines but I am curently working on a front mounted motor chassis for a car with a very low-cut cockpit that would show not only the top but the sides of a rear motor".

I'm curious, does anyone have any ideas?

David
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"no, Watson" said Holmes "I am afraid we must look in another direction" offering for the good doctor's inspection an unfinished sketch of a chassis overlaid on drawings of a light blue car with a 4.5L engine. along with a foolscap invoice signed "Mac"
 

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Administrator
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Elementary my dear Holmes it has to be the PreAd Talbot-Lago. I'm still intrigued about the mould you are producing.

David
 

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Brian Ferguson
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3,652 Posts
QUOTE I'm still intrigued about the mould you are producing.

Me too.... but if it looks like blue cheese, I'm not going near it!
 

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Peter Farrell
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2,114 Posts
My pack of Milliput is a minimum of 8 years old. Still useable, no problems with it. Just keep it tightly wrapped and in my workshop, (in a light proof cupboard).
Alfetta
 

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Allan Wakefield
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5,857 Posts
Last time I saw anything to do with milliput - it was in a book about a giant.

Hmm or did that start with an 'L' ?
 

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Registered
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`Green Stuff` sold by Games Workshop is another good alternative. It is finer than Miliput and excellent for designing figures like those I`ve done in the SRA range.
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE (Fergy @ 10 Jan 2005, 00:59)QUOTE I'm still intrigued about the mould you are producing.

Me too.... but if it looks like blue cheese, I'm not going near it!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>


Well, to borrow from the Late Sir Peter Ustinov and his "interview" with Herr Altbauer in the "Grand Prix of Gibraltar":

"Ve verk here in the Schnorcedes Verks in ze greatest of zecrecy but somehow the information has leaked out, I don't know - ze blace is full of schnooping"



EM
 

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Administrator
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QUOTE (jonny s @ 13 Jan 2005, 13:35)`Green Stuff` sold by Games Workshop is another good alternative. It is finer than Miliput and excellent for designing figures like those I`ve done in the SRA range.
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

How does Green Stuff compare to Milliput on price and is it as easy to work with? I pay about £4.50 for the 4oz Milliput box.

David
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I don't know if "Green Stuff" is similar to "Squadron Green" a putty that I often use. the latter is a rapidly drying, single part, lacquer based filler. It is very useful for filling minor surface blemishes, especially on injection molded bodies where, due to its solvent base, it adheres very stongly. It is less useful on resin bodies and for building up significant features because, since it cures by evaporation, thick sections cure slowly and it lacks what is, to me, Milliput's most useful property - the ability to do final shaping and smoothing with water-dipped implements. I find that this technique often leads to results that need little or no surface preparation before finishing. Case in point: the Mercedes form is an A2M resin body - very thick and heavy (44 grams) and lacked the faired-in rear view mirrors. I added them in a single step with Milliput after fastening two 5/32" diameter thin aluminum disks to the edge of the cockpit to form the mirror faces.
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Sort of still related, as the body has been seen and posted - What are A2M like quality, scale and workability wise?

They do a Testarossa I like the look of.
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,392 Posts
Overall, I would rate them medium-low. I am pretty sure that the W-196 is molded from one of Fitzpatrick's classic shells. I have one and they are, to my eyes, identical save for the missing mirrors. I believe that their Testa Rossa and D-Jag are re-pops of the old Strombecker bodies, and, as such, will be way out of scale. The do a Porsche that is larger than their D-Jag - nearly 1/24, I think. The bodies are very thick - as I noted, the Merc weighs 44 gms The surfaces are OK but with a fair assortment of nicks and bubbles, especially near the edges of the mold/body. Overall, they are near the bottom of my list of possible suppliers. My suggestion would be that if they did a model that you wanted, and you could confirm the size and scale, do as I did and use it as a pattern for a mold and roll your own.

EM
 
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