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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Inspired by other forum members (well, mainly Todd and other SSD scenery artists) it's time to open my own thread for the Minardi Ring. I can tell in advance that progress will be slow. It took me 2 years to go from carpet-racing to analog racing on a semi-permanent track in the garage which can be (and must be) raised to the ceiling after every race night, to a SSD track, which I am currently thinking about changing a little and start some scenery.

Here is my analog track from 2 years ago


I took out the scalextric classic/scx pieces and now It has changed into this;


PS, look how th epit building looks with lights in it in this thread; http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23373
I left most of the track in the orginal state, but added of course lane changers and a pitlane. I want to put the start line before the pits and divide the track in 2 parts. The lower, modern looking pit/SF area, and the part in the back I want to add elevations, trees etc. When adding elevations I get a chance to change a small part of the track and let the tracks cross each other. I'll try to post my current lay-out and new lay-out design soon. I also started this topic to be advised by you. I am a total beginner regarding scenery, and my track has some limitations.

Because It's raised to the ceiling, the height of the elevations can't be higher than the borders around It. (the pit building is detachable)
It's a little flexible, so I am a little worried about using plaster for mountains. I am lookingfor a flexible material, and thinking about working in modules. For example, the MDF around the pits can be taken out so I can work on It when the track is raised (yes, have to start on that also). I am thinking about something similar for the mountain area. (well, hills is more approriate concerning the lack of height)
Weight is also an issue, It can't be too heavy for the electric wrench.

So, enough to start this thread I guess. Race nights are mostly every 2 weeks, and scenery in between. However, with 2 little kids planning has to be careful (and spending money
)

Looking forward to your input.

Regards, Marcel Minnaard (see where my nickname came from ?)
 

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Great layout, I see lot's of scenery opportunity!!!

Cheers,
M.
 

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Stuart Walters
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hey marcel

looking forward to seeing your latest track design. i've found elavations have made a huge difference to design options, especialy as like you i only have room for a long thin track.

are you planning your drones to randomly change lanes or to change every time?


also really like the back drop, did you make it?
 

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Alright Marcel!!! Were going to have yet Another dang fine sceniced track thread going!!!

You'll get lots of help of that you can be assured. Theres already alot of information posted in scenery 101 and several of the individual builds going on now (not to mention many of the excellent past builds)

Dont let anybody hurry you..........Do this at your own pace, its supposed to be fun.........You'll go through spurts where you get a lot done and then theres the other times we dont talk about


I said near the beginning of my thread that this would be built at My pace in my own sweet time........It's coming along but STILL, I am NOT in a hurry..you shouldnt be either!!

Are you excited yet??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guys, thanks for the kind words.

@Tileguy; Excited ? Sure am
Just trying to catch up in the scenery 101 thread and 'the show'

@eye101; Drones should randomly change lanes, my nephew is working on It and should be ready within 3 weeks, not that It's that much work but also a busy guy. The random on/off is directed by the compounds of (I don't exactly know the right words for this) the controllers of a real car when you want to turn left or right - the blinking lights installation
, LC 1second on, LC 1 second off etc.). This can of course be switched on/off.
I can e-mail the background zip-file. Don't remember where I downloaded It, but It's on my harddrive. Just send me a PM with your e-mail.


@bleep; So foam board It should be ! Just have to find It somewhere here. I really like your track and have been following It since I am registered with SF (I love the secret lane). Do you think the 'frocks' can work for mountains, to fill up the height between track and bottom ? Will start reading your thread to find the 'manual'.
I see you are also a R2 crossover fan, I now have only 1 in my lay-out, but thinking about adding an extra 2 in the adjusted part (which I am trying to show in this thread
) , although there are not so many R2 crossover supporters...

@MartinT; Thanks !
 

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Ian
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Woha Marcel,
the crossover is only there as I have never got round to replacing it, too Lazy
It wont be used on my next track.

Yes, Frocks can be built to any size, you could even put any empty box underneath so that you have a frame to build over even lighter!


I am going to love to see this develop, but dont Rush it ad Todd says this is FUN take your time
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fingers crossed, here is the existing lay-out and the new (hope you can see them). It's a nice and easy program, but no SSD parts or even crossovers, but you get the idea. The left part where the lanes cross should be raised. What do you think ? Don't want to change the right part too much however, as I already placed the pit building there, maybe elevate the back straight later. (and 1 R2 crossover is more than enough........)



 

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Rob
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Nice track Marcel, should be fun watching it develop


QUOTE It took me 2 years to go from carpet-racing to analog racing on a semi-permanent track in the garage

Is that all? I've been working on my garage track for nearly two years, loft track for a year or more before that. Your progress is lightning fast by comparison!


cheers,

Rob
 

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Hello Marcel,

Nice to see you are making progress. I love the lights of your pit building. They create a very nice atmosphere. When I read you had installed them, I finally got round to installing mine. I used white leds, though, which give a more sober, cold ambiance.
Foam board you can buy at artist supplier shops as it is often used by architects to create their models (maquettes). It comes in thickness of 3 and 5 mm as far as I know. I am still undecided if I am going to use it as underlayment for my pitbuilding and other areas, as it is rather expensive, I think, but it is much lighter and easier to work than MDF. I think it is ideal for buildings.

Greetings,

Arjen
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@ donquislot

Thanks Arjen, will we see an update in your thread ? How is the testing for april 14th going ? I have been thinking about the stuff they use under floors, so called insulation plates. I think they are cheaper, but never had a good look at them. I am more worried about applying expanding foam and getting some shape in It.

@taxi
Thanks also. 2 years without ever be able to start the scenery I mean. Although I must admit there has been some serious testing of the track going on.
 

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QUOTE (Minardi @ 14 Mar 2007, 02:18) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>


On this new Layout , How about reversing the over under .. you could raise the Pit area a few inches OR drop the front straight a few inches.......This gives you a climb coming off that fast straightaway and a Nice opportunity for a Wall between Levels......Stone or Brick or Block wall........for Modern...........Or perhaps a Wood retaining Wall for an Older appearance......I think it would also Help for viewing purposes.......Stepping up from from front to back is a bit more natural.

For adding hills or raising area's look into Extruded insulation Board (not syrofoam beads) Extruded is Blue/pink or yellow around here.

If you look at my thread and the first bit of scenery on the left side I used extruded to build up the hill which then has the fence on top running around above track level.
For your purposes a 1" thick sheet can be layered or a 2" thick sheet + 1" thick to give a 3" raised area for the pits should give a good Defined height change............Just a thought
 

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Tel
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Well, you have to test the track layout is correct before adding scenery, so who can blame you

Another scenery thread for me to keep an eye on, maybe one day all the info I pick up may come in useful for me, but I doubt it
until then I will watch with interest and envy
 

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I am not exactly following you I guess Todd, but I like the idea of reversing over/under and the stepping up from front to back idea. Do you mean levelling front to back across the whole lenght ? Sounds good, however my pit building can't get higher as it will touch the ceiling when raised. But you got me thinking...

@savage, and I envy your car collection !
 

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QUOTE however my pit building can't get higher as it will touch the ceiling when raised.

Drop the table 3 inches


When I build legs I generally use 2x2's and I put a Tnut/Bolt in the bottom to use as Levelers. A 1/2 oe 5/8" x 2" Tnut works well for this.

The idea would be to have the front track 3" (aprox) lower than the Pit lane.
You would start your climb right before going under the overpass ....climb around the (lets call it a carousel shall we
) then head into Pit Alley........Leave pits and begin a climb up behind the Pit buildings until you peak at the back side of the corner........start dropping heading for the right rear corner (which could be slightly banked with an Earth Berm) and Plunge headlong down to a second earth bermed Bank into the fast nbottom straightaway........The slight banks will keep things fast and flowing and would actually be what a highway department would do given sharp radius turns (they generally add some bank for drainage and to offset Gravity, particullarly in a hill or mountain country setting ....they also give a bermed corner like this a bit of a ditch iif possible to catch rockslides etc (IF Possible) Its not always possible if the Clif wall is RIGHT THERE


Your visibility should be improved by climbing once again behind the pit buildings and the Plunge to the lowest level will be more dramatic on that right side.

Make more sense??
 

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Hi Minardi,

I envy you and Don both.

My track is still in boxes under the bed. The kids play now with a dartboard on my attic were my track used to be.
So have to look how you and Don are building SSD tracks and put senery arround it, and I have too play darts.
(It's also because i blew up my to PB's so
for Marcellus)
As i recall racing the minardi ring was really exiting, the only thing botherring me was that the pitgarage was blocking my
view on th track behind the garage.
Like to see your track develop and see you soon.
@Don how's your scenery going on, or much practicing for the 14e??

Greets Marcellus
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
@tileguy
Makes perfect sense, and I am pretty sure I will follow your suggestions all the way. Except for raising the pit area, I can't see how I am going to achieve that.

@marcellus
2 blown PB's ?
Any luck with changing them at the shop ? The view blocking will hopefully be solved when raising parts of the track, and extendend controller cables. Hope to have some progress next raceday at Kapelle.
 

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Well, you wouldnt Have to raise it if you can Drop the front and build back up to pit level. Of course the direction I indicated would require your start to be on that Front straightaway rather than the Pit lane..........meaning you would come into the pit from the left.......(seems to me this is how your picture showed it isnt it??)

One sure way to see if you like it is to build a scale model of your model....... Try Clay and cardboard
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Can't drop the front, this would mean cutting in the construction that is carrying the table. You are right about entering the pit from the left. I think that I am going to elevate everything as how you suggested, except for the area before the pits. So coming out of the carroussel after the under/over pass a decline to pit level, and pit out begin the climb up.

Changed the under/over pass.



This brings up a whole other approach. What a little elevation can do with your imagination! I just can see that brick wall...Thanks Todd. Might not go the scale model way, but definitely a drawing/sketch.
 

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Whatever you finally decide on Marcell, I'm absolutley Positive it'll be Mint, perfect, choice, Superb, Stunning and a whole lot of other Adjectives I cant think of now


Me, I'd tear down existing Table and rebuild for what i wanted........wait, I already Did DO that!!! ROFL

I learned a very long time ago the hard way (and i almost made the same mistake again but suddenly I REMEMBERED)

QUOTE When you decide to change your existing layout, DO NOT try to use existing Benchwork and end up Compromising justto make it work.....You'll never be happy with the compromises in the end and you'll just end up tearing it out and re-doing it like you wanted it in the first place.

Building Benchwork really doesnt take that long and can make all the difference in the world.

Your Call, Totally up to you as this is Your Baby...............I just dont want to see you start compromising simply to make an existing table work when changing things simply is not difficult to do.(just thinking of that downhill plunge to that bottom level.......almost gives me wood ROFL)
I built all of my benchwork in about 7-8 hours of ACTUAL working time.......thats 15 feet long x 3' wide with a wider section on the left end - plus that 68"x36" L on the right , and that INCLUDES doing the Raised Roadbed work!!!
 
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