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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having got one of each of these cars, I was wondering if anybody could tell me how to make some minor modifications without changing any parts to make these cars run quicker?
 

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Gary Skipp
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With or without mags?

Truing and gluing applies to both.

Especially make sure you glue the driveshaft bearing on the vette, otherwise if it pops it'll eat your crowns y'arrrgh. Loosening screws will also help through the turns/bumps.
 

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Oh sorry!
With mags, I get too many problems whenever I even think about removing mags! Is there anything else I could do other than what LMP04 has suggested-many thanks to LMP04 by the way! Do these minor mods increase the speed by any considerable amount?
 

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A few mods to increase speed.....

There are not many unless you go for a new motor - axles, bearing.. etc but heres a few maintanace routines that may see your cars move along a little swifter...

1) Oiling..... a nice synthetic oil from a model shop.... prioir to running each car - oil bearing, crown and pinion gears..... Oil the front axle too... let them wheels roll freely, as they cause drag also... Dont forget to oil the guide to, where it rotates in the chassis.

2) Wiring.... (Change your wiring to silicon or high performance wires.... only a teeny advantage there - not alot)..... Its how u wire it up that makes the difference....


Over or under the axles....
Under the axles to keep the front axle off the track surface and level or over to allow the wheels to freely rotate..

Or use the wiring to assist keeping the car in a str8 line.... or just to ensure the guide is inline for easier reslotting... make sure that the wires to either side of a central body mouning post...

Check the pic for an example of a suitable wiring format...


A wee bit dirty
after running a while.. but the car is essentially the most modded I have and runs very very quick... stable and quiet..... (Now rules on modding this class of car at Molesey or very few...).. and I beleive the less noise the more speed...

3) Front tyres.... if you dont want to change the - give them a nice glaze of nail polish of superglue..... cuts down that friction... It does wear out - so keep a check on the quality of the glaze...

4) Engine routines.... If your prepared to take the engine apart.... Polishing the commutator... with a smooth rag and some electrical cleaning fluid... then a doseing of Brasso or similar metal polish.... Gives a cleaner electrical contact... but make sure you leave no residue behind.. Do this quarterly...
If your even braver - u can change the springs in the motor can to increase the contact pressure on the com of the bushes... or pull the current ones out and stretch them abit... this gets a bit fiddely... (only the steadyest of hands can do this).

Keep the engine well lubricated - with daily race lubrications on either end of the motor.... There are recommeded types of oil for different types of motor, but in fly engines, I use ordinary modeling synthetic oil.

I also wash out the motor with an electrical contact fuild, There are different preferences that apply to "state of mind" and "personnel favriotes" depending on who you are.... Some are a closely guarded secret, and not availible in certain countries due to Health regulations..... I normally use - Servisol Super 10... However - I try to use any product with Trychloroethane or how ever u spell it....

For an example why....
Heatlh Questions - what u should know before using it....

In the UK, the best one I have found is for cleaning plastics, normally during the lamination process, so a super clean enviroment, error free lamination can take place, of microscopic film...
Best say no more.... called BJC....


What ever product u choose, before racing that day for the first time u run the motor a few turns.... flood the engine with the fluid - straight out of the can into the motor can... If u over fill it, I havent found it to be a problem,(except that it is flammible as :ikes:
) just clean away the excess. Leave the motor a few seconds, the fluid normally evaportaes off, PDQ, the good stuff takes a few seconds only... then run the motor again - say 5 - 10 seconds..... give it another squirt... continue the routine depending on how long the motor was last run - and length of time..... its amazing how dirty they get...

Clean the car... get rid of all the dirt that collects when racing , rubber of the tyres or just plain dust.

and finally....Lubricate the bearings/bushes/pinion one more time.... and good to race.

Now as for what it'll get you in speed terms, well, if every one of these methods u choose to perform, is equal to a 1/10th better on ur fastest lap time, I'd say with the same car u could run 1/2 sec quicker.....

Assuming the car set up is right of course... weight - add it or loose it... I dont beleive in anything more than ensuring the bearings/bushes are glued in. I do add weight some in cars where its essential, scalex F1 Jordan, Proslot GT1.The essential bit being, so much grip and a smooth quick clean motor can pick its guide balde out of the slot and wheelie down most long straights
.... and Tyre choice well thats whle different kettle of fish..


CoolS
 

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aaaargghh.. I forgot one....

If u dont want to glue your bearing/bushes in, then just use a pair of point noise pliers... smallones, and pinch the plastic either side of the bushings so its tightens, hte bearing/bushes in the hole.. Do this on both sides, but... once uve done it once, its very easy to break the plastic when replacing the axle.... Its a once done thing, your knackered.... I'd rather glue the axle, it adds strength and just a time issue to remove...

Apols..

CoolS
 

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Maybe a view of my Fly GT1 Porsche.... as quick as the Proslot GT1... but doesnt cut the mustard handling wise.. that carries similar modds, atually this was modified by only making a custom front axle setup and a wiring change... Proslot tyres.. alloy wheels....

Hope that helps

CoolS
 

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both the vette and the lister have a thin shim under the magnet. probably. take the shim away and things get much better. be careful removing the strap that holds the magnet in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Do you guys know if the Fly 79501 Racing motor will work and fit into the Fly Lister Storm chassis?
 
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