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Kevs Racing Bits
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No, this still a reworked hard plastic Sideways Hurricane Wing with selfmade rubber supports. But lighter 3DP wing is planned.

With kind regards
Tamar
1mm thick neoprene rubber supports work fantastic, after reading Tamars setup tips I bought a sheet and the SlotIt Jag XJR14 now has (near) indestructible wing mounts.
 

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You know the rules, Kevan: photos please, or it didn't happen.

Specifically, how do they fit to the shell? Perhaps in another thread? 馃檹
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Hello Pedro
Attached with a small drop of thick superglue, like Kevan "Sans fingerprints.
As posted and explained 2 years ago in the Ford GT LM, the road to Le Mans topic see here in post #103

The Ford is a bit of an odd ball, rear wing attached to the back of the body, much like the XJ14. For most GT's its an easier install as the wing supports usually go straight down trough the bootlid like here on the M8 GTE.
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As mentioned before, this is just the prototype (incl. the paper wing decal), a modified Sideways Hurricane wing. Originally its mounted to the wing supports with just 4 tiny studs sliding into 4 tiny holes in the wing.
So all I did was mill those holes out into 1mm wide slots.
Cut the Swann neck BMW supports from 1mm rubber with some extra material at the bottom.
Now you could attach the supports permanently to the body with a tiny drop of thick CA, and I might do that come race time.

But in Digital racing there's no such thing as permanently ( although the Ford wing supports have lasted for all her racing since Rockingham 2019.) So for the Beemer I've left some extra extra material in the bottom of the supports.
In the body I've cut two slots through which I can stick the supports...and underneath on the inside.....
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...I've glued some neoprene sponge foam rubber pads.
Look closely at the image and you can see the bottom of the right side wing support just peaking through.
The foam grips the rubber support just enough to maintain its position even during regular off track excursions.
But if for maintenance or Body mods I need to take the wing off the car...its easy to pull them out.

But this isn't enough to withstand the force of nature wielded by a careless Marshalling hand.. which is why for a race...
...just the tiniest drop of thick CA extra will be applied.

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Down under
Continuing on the rear wing mounting on rubber supports post: In the process of the latest tune up, I removed the paint on the underside of the rear wing.
Gives a clear picture on how I enlarged the holes in the Sideways Huracan wing and converted them into slots in which the rubber supports are glued.
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With kind regards
Tamar.

Oh and as a side effect...wing lost 0,2gr of weight. the devil is in the details 馃槆
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Back to the Body shop...
Been quite busy these last few days, after the Oct 17 test it was time to roll the SV8 GTE back into the body shop.
Upon close inspection it became evident that there was a bit more damage inflicted by her 2019 Crash test.
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Might not be evident from the pictures, but cleaning up the body and repairing all the minute hairline cracks and areas where the gel coat had delaminated from the GRP took me more than 3 days.
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So here's the body after 3 days of work, cycles of adding primer and sanding back to almost the bare GRP Skin, added some reinforcements here and there, cut out the parts that were truly damaged. But even with all my skills...prepping her for paint...it was obvious that in a white dress... it would so clearly show this lass had already lost her verginity.

and Back to Black
So no white dress for the SV8GTE on her first prom night @ Rockingham, but a rather cool shiny black robe, think of Trinity in the Matrix.
Here she is after her first coat of black, some orange peel here and there, but I'll clean that up with some polishing compound.
Those imperfections that would have spoiled her looks in white, blow away by the appearance of some tight fitting bad ass black.
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Updated the decal sheet as well, below some pictures of the hopefully last (20+) test fitting with paper stickers. Chosen the #24 Daytona 24hrs winner,
fitting livery as the car ran like this throughout the whole 2020 season including "Petit Le Mans"
Getting the M-Sport bands right across the hood openings was quite a task, but the mos difficult job were the decals around the grille, the famous BMW Kidneys being the hardest.
But more than happy so far. Decals of to the printers now. Application will actually be a lot easier than the test fits I did with paper stickers.
What i.m.o. is nice about this livery is the combination of the Shiny black body work with the semigloss/ matte finish of the M-sport bands and logo's.

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The only downside of this dark party dress... a black car on a black track...with 2 hrs of night running in the dark....
So next update will be:

Let there be light
And plenty of it too, 23 smd leds planned for the whole set.
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to be continued

with kind regards
Tamar
 

ParrotGod
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Nice update Tamar. Is the decal set going to be available on Slotfabrik?
23 LEDs...this is going to be interesting. The most I have installed so far has been 14. So I will be looking with interest on what you are going to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Hello Gio

Matching decals & paint
Yes most likely also available from Slotfabrik, although there upscaled to 1/24 will be more popular, since there's now a very good 1/24 Kit of the BMW M8 GTE.
Will be available (with the SV8 GTE kit) from SVWorkz as well.
But it (as usual) will take a while before I'll release it for commercial use. Think somewhere in 2022, definitely after DiSCA LM 24hrs.
First thing I want to get sorted is calibration of the decal set colors with pre-mixed paint, preferably Spray can as well.
As with all Beemers sporting the M colors, the red's not a problem, Tamiya Italian red will do.
But finding a good match for the dark & light blue is very hard.
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Normally you can get away with just decals, or just paint, but on the M8, the inside of the grille is a very hard spot to decal.
I mean I've drawn the decal, even got the paper sticker in there... but wouldn't want to force that solution on anybody. Much easier to find a good matching paint and airbrush that section.
Most likely candidate for now is a Tamiya Light Blue.
Pictured above are some test shots I did with it on some plastic spoons, dries out much darker than what's "advertised" on the rattle can cap. Underneath the test decal sheet I had done on a laser printer. Will require several Test cycles before we have those two matched.

to be continued


With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Hello Gio, split my answers to your questions into two separate posts.
Easier that way, should I want to link back to this particular subject in a future post.


Let there be Light, at least ...that's the plan.
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So anyone doing a black car that wants to go "night racing" is looking for trouble, as without a good light set the car will just vanish in to the night as the room lights turn off. Even the guys at RLL realized this as can be seen above.
So over-imposed is my LED light plan, and I actually miscounted, its 26 SMD leds..not 23.
We had 16 led's in total on the
2017 DiSCA Proton Porsche remember, and with good reason, as that too was a pretty dark livery. But I don't think we had any trouble identifying our car in Henley. So for the SV8GTE it's just 10 extra 馃槆 .
6 of these xtra's will be needed for the rear quarter window lights (3 each side)


To power all those led's I'm going to use 2 Slot.it SP44 light kits with a Z machine flaming exhaust chip piggyback riding on one of them. (As described in the Options to run lights from the C Chip topic)
I'll be using one of Dr_C's prototype Flatcable adaptor boards to connect the two SP44's to the one Flat Cable connector on the O201C chip.
Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Electrical wiring Electronic component

Good thing the minimum DISCA GTLM body weight went up from 17,5 gr to 22 gr.
Those few extra grams wiggle room are going to be well spend 馃槆

to be continued

With kind regards
Tamar
 

ParrotGod
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Yes most likely also available from Slotfabrik, although there upscaled to 1/24 will be more popular, since the's now a very good 1/24 Kit of the BMW M8 GTE.
....

Normally you can get away with just decals, or just paint, but on the M8, the inside of the grille is a very hard spot to decal.
I mean I've drawn the decal, even got the paper sticker in there... but wouldn't want to force that solution on anybody. Much easier to find a good matching paint and airbrush that section.
Most likely candidate for now is a Tamiya Light Blue.
I have already the nunu kit of the M8 and I am planning to get anther one to do a #35 Red M8.
The livery job is very difficult on these cars. I have seen some videos of people building the 1/24 and some of the decals are not for the fainthearted.
 

ParrotGod
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I am really curious on how you are going to achieve the 3 strip lights on each of the rear quarter windows.
The other point is around the rear fog/rain light: is this going to be a blinking one or as a central brake light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Hello Gio
Simple answer first.

Lighting up the rear
The central rear fog/brake light, not decided yet. I'm mounting it because I want to enhance recognizability of the car when running in a pack. ( think of the S-de la Foret section on the DiSCA LM track).
So there blinking would be good, easy to do with stock blinking red LED.
But I also don't want to annoy the rest of the field with a blinking red led all the time.
Decision is still out on that one.
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What I'm still experimenting with is how to do the iconic W-shape of the M8 tail lights, in combination with the separate brake lights.
And in which way to connect them to the SP44 board, as that only has a connection for a combined Brake/Tail light set of LED's. I want them to operate separately.
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Installing the multiple lights on the SV8GTE was the main reason why I specifically chose not to add any colored pigment to the gel coat. Its a bit harder to keep track of how much material you add during lamination (and the body did end up a bit overweight). But the transparency of the body does allow LED's to shine trough. No need to cut hole that will weaken the structure.
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So back in 2019 I'd already drawn the decals for the tail light detail, but as you can see, those don't mask strongly enough to create the clear and thin W light bar.
So now I'm thinking of using the paper stickers as a masking template, cut out the area around the W bar and spray that black, a work in progress so to speak.

Side Number, position shields and ID Lights
But at least now you understand why doing all the lights on the side is relatively easy. All I have to do is scrape away the black paint, apply a decal over it and mount a LED behind inside the body.
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Relative, as on the test install I did yesterday I noticed that instead of 3 LED's per rear quarter window...I would need 6 LED's to make the full length shine as one.
Hmm an extra 12 LED's might be a bit too much for the SP44. Well ....what can I say but...
Hood Vehicle Car Automotive design Automotive tire

...to be continued

With kind regards
Tamar
 

ParrotGod
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Very cool Tamar. I was expecting something like that - a combination of decals and smart placement of LEDs.
 
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