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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been thinking of moving over to 1:43 for some time now as I really like the size. I picked up an SCX Cuda set today and I must say the cars are very nice. However the front wheels are about 1/4" off the track surface! Is this typical?

Wanted to route a track too but perhaps I should stay with my 1/32 stuff.

Thank you

Al
 

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Hi Al
I have switched from Ho and 1/24 and 1/32 scales to only 1/43. I have found it to be just the right size for my rooms. Some of the cars like your 'cudas' and other SCX cars have the high nose problem and it is quite common. There is a simple modification that you can do to get the nose down. Do a seach for guide fixes or something similar
I'll send you a pm with a link.
1/43 scale, if you stick with it I believe is a lot of fun and not so expensive as the others. A routed track is easy to build and can cover a lot of lane lenght in a small space. Guys like Peter, Masmojo, Lloyd and my self have made some pretty good efforts in this dirrection. Proxy races are a hoot!
Scratchbuilding is wide open, with a lot of us figuring out what works.
Companies like Kyosho ( D-slot ) are really getting into producing quatity cars and bodies. Although aftermarket parts are somewhat hard to find, more are appearing almost daily

Hope this helps.
Cheers Ted
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ted,
Thank you very much for the link. Great presentation. Off to the store today to get the conversion parts!

Regarding the routing of the track. I have all the tools etc but having trouble making a decision on using braid or tape. I have a 500' roll of 1/4 braid but wondering if its too wide and give way too much down force.

Tape appears to be a pain in the a$$ when applying it around corners. Also how does it hold up to temp changes. My room will go from around 50F to 85F when the AC or heat is off.

Thanks again for your help.
AL
 

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Hi Al, I have always used copper tape on my routed tracks and have no real problem despite the changes of temprerature experienced in my shed. The main thing is that I do not use magnets. If you want to, braid is obviously the best for you.

There is quite a lot to learn when first moving into 1/43, but it is worth the initial work and can give a different an fun slot car experience. The 1/43 slotters are a friendly and helpful bunc and I will PM you some links that are worth having a look at to help in the transition.

Regards, Lloyd
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Lloyd,
Thank you for your input and the PM. Lots of reading now! Since I plan to route a single lane track simply for testing and fun and will hold no racing I think the tape will hold up.
Thank you
Al
 

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Hey Al
Don't be too fast to discount the racing. Put in a timing system and you and your friends can run against the clock. You just have to take turns. I held my leg of the ISP43 on a twisty one lane small track. The great thing is you get to look at a lot of very interesting cars.
When I built my track, I first copper taped my track then changed to 1/4" braid. Both work well but the tape seemed to want to roll up. My cars slide around the corners a lot when going fast. I'm going with 3/16" braid on the next one starting soon. This falls project. ulless your braid is magna-braid there wont be any downforce. Normal braid is copper coated with a thin layer of tin. Try holding a magnet to your braid to see if it sticks.
The track I have is in an apartment so I can't tell you about tempurature changes but I like wooden tracks both building them and running on them.

Cheers Ted
 

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Hi Al, this is the supplier I used this time, on reccomendation from SF posts. My 2 rolls arrived within 2 weeks. Double conductive should make joins easier than they were with the single conductive tape that I previously used.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220975065364?ssP...#ht_4779wt_1163

Regards, Lloyd
 

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i already built 3 pcs 1/43rd routed track, all of them used copper tape - brand: venturetape, masterfoil plus, best width: 5/32", i also used 3/16" (good, too) and 1/4", but this is a little wide for 1/43rd.

If you´re using copper tape, be sure to build a tape laying tool. easy to build, cheap and you can tape a whole 3 lane 72ft track in one day.
The tape laying tool also works around the corners, with a little burnishing and you´re done. no problem there, it´s easy.

Peter
 

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I used 1/4 tape for my routed track. I have had some lifting on corners when it gets really cold, but I think I pulled it too tight in the corners to avoid wrinkles. Knowing what I know now, I'd use 3/16 tape instead.
 

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I think for my next track I won't use tape, not because I have had many problems, but more because I am all about scenery and I wan't something that blends in more and looks more realisitic. To that end I will probably go with the thinnest Magna braid I can find or I have been seriously looking at buying some of those metal "fish" tapes that electricians uses and sinking them into some routed channels as contacts.
 

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If it's the look you are after, tinned copper braid looks just the same as Magna braid (but Magna braid is attracted to magnets and tinned copper isn't).
 

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QUOTE (300SLR @ 16 Oct 2012, 18:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If it's the look you are after, tinned copper braid looks just the same as Magna braid (but Magna braid is attracted to magnets and tinned copper isn't).

I generally run No-mag, but I figure Magna braid has a fairly light pull and a thin braid would have even less, but a little would be O.K. with me. I don't mind just a little magnet in the front to keep the guide planted and modern F-1 and prototype cars look kind of silly with their tails hagging out too much anyway.
 
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