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Tony
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After some advice from Maurizio from Slot.It I decided to carry out what he suggested and more, the mods list is as follows
Fitted 15.8mm alloy front wheels fitted with PT19 skinny tyres ( glued and trued )
Metric brass head screw fitted to motor pod and body mountings (Screwed tight and backed of 1/4 turn)
0.04 Spacer between gear and bearing
CH74 Guide modified as per previous posting
12mm wide alloy rear hubs with Alpha Supernatural sponge tyres 19mm dia.
Tungsten weight in front of motor
Lead weight behind front axle (gives50/50 weight distribution)
Upper front axle adjustment screws replaced with longer stainless steel ones
Lower front axle plastic supports removed and replaced with stainless steel grub screws through the bottom of the chassis
Tear proof parts for the body.
The end result is 1mm ground clearance at the front and 1.5mm at the rear.
The car handles better than our production class but is being left on the straight, waiting for the new Slot.It motors.
I have added some photo's of the car and it's JK32 competition. Even with all the modifications I think the Slot.it has come in about £10 cheaper
 

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Looks good, I'm amazed it handles better than the JK, the body must weigh a lot more than a lexan shell. Any comments on which upgrades had the greatest affect on performance, I'm guessing the tyres. Shame you can't easily get a falcon to fit.
 

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Tony
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Thanks Steve, the pictures don't really do the chrome paint justice.
Slingshotx, you would be surprised how light the body is, it does flex. The raising of the front axle and smaller front wheels and smaller sponge rear tyes made the most difference. They resulted in lowering the ground clearence, it also has a longer wheel base than the JK. May not be able to run it so low on a plastic track though.
 

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It seems the differences between the brass chassis boys and the rest if us who race Slot.It/NSR kits is becoming blurred. V. Interesting experiment Please keep us updated when the new motor arrives.
I for one race a Slot.It Lola in our Sports/GT class and it also could do with more poke...
 

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Ok I have to ask. Why tungsten in front of the motor and lead behind the front wheels? Why not just add the same total weight in lead and just move it back from the front wheels a touch. You still achieve a 50/50 weight distribution (is that good for a slot car??) and have a slightly reduced polar inertia. Or have you been experimenting with different polar inertias to find an "optimum"?

cheers
rick1776
 

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Hi Bigtone lola looking very nice i am a brass chassis man from the depths of time and have come up to date with the plastic one's i have a Slot it Alfa T33 and a Ford GT40 with a 29K in and run it with sponge at home but in my area there is nowhere to run with sponge they seem to be all on rubber around here and seeing your mods will look at mine to see if i can get any improvement using rubber, the trouble i find there is a lot of rubber around and selecting the right type seems a minefield unlike the days i used sponge put the softer on and that was basically it , i am seriously looking at the Lola but i may be wise in waiting for the faster motor to be introduced, i have nearly finished a Fly bodied 250 GTO with a brass chassis and a anglewind Mura 15 in it and will be interested to see how it performes against my older Lexan bodied cars which have similar set up's but are lighter and c of g is better Keith.
 

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Tony
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2,834 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rick, The tungsten weight was added at Maurizio's suggestion, on testing the front was definitely to light hence the addition of the lead. I am going to experoment with the positioning of the lead. I am happy with the handling but moving the lead may make it better. I'll try spliting the lead and putting a piece each side behind the each front wheel.
 

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Where you move the weight depends on how the car is deslotting. Drive it too fast and deslot the car!! Does it roll over, slide out, or front end deslot? Whichever of the 3 deslots is happining will dictate where the weight is repositioned.

cheers
rick1776
 

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C,mon Big T, get a falcon 6 or tsrf dee3 motor in there. its a simple turning job for a spacer. someone in the club must have acces to a lathe. i,d do it for you, but i have,nt got a scrap of ally left. i,ve got to order some 20mm-10mm ally and some 20mm delrin for back wheels. if you cant find anyone and you can wait 2 weeks i,ll do it for you. john
 

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Matt Tucker
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Weight is usful but you want to optimise it and have as minimal amount as possible.

If the nose is too light I presume you are finding it wheelies or goes straight on at corners. Just add a bit at a time until it stops doing it.

In terms of other weight, first see how it handles. If it is deslotting and you've ensured everything is nicely set up then weight to balance the car 50:50 will help. Only add a gramme or so at a time and test each time.

If you are sliding too much in corners first work on the tyres and get the grip up as best you can - get your SPF 40+ out for the foamies.

If after you've done that and you are still getting too much slide then weight infront of the rear tyres will help that - again add a gramme at a time and test.

After that - get more motor and start all the above again becuase the handling will be different.
Matt
 

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That's all very interesting.................. a little clarification would be good

When you state 50/50 distribution do you mean ................ equal about the wheel base or the front of the guide and the centre of the rear axle ? or maybe some where else !
What is the 'all up' weight of the car now ?

Thank you in advance
 

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Tony
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the advice but as I have said I am happy with the car apart from the lack of straight line speed so am not going to change anything major. The all up weight of the car is 8.39 gms and the cog is 50/50 between the axles. There appears to be a lot of backlash in the gears so I my try some metal ones.
John I'd love to stick a hairy motor in it and that's what I'd normally do and ruin the car. I'm going to wait for the new Slot.It Flat motors. I'm also pretty sure that nothing taller than a Flat 6 is going to fit as my body shell is the low one
 

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Thanks for the quick reply ..................

I think you have made a mistake with the all up weight.................... the motor and motor pod alone weighs more than 8.39 grms. LOL

Perhaps 80.39 grms ? ?
 

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My lola just screams for a gear change.
Sharp acceleration and extra strong brakes combined with a low top speed, even for a tight Ninco layout as mine.
Unless you run above 12V, why not try a pinion change?
 

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Tony
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2,834 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Tim, We run at 13.8v and our main straight is about 30 feet long an I'm not getting the rapid acceleration you do. I have wondered about the motor as it only has a yellow paper wrapper with no writing on it. All the pictures I've seen seem to have foil wrappers with the motor details on them.
 
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