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Mark
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello!
just had my first msc car and am wondering what the spare grub screws that come with it are for??? only had scaley cars so far and its a leap into the unknown for me. are they to set the front axle ride hight? my first and best guess anyway!! lol
thanks
mark
 

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Registered
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2,799 Posts
Ey Up Guys,

There are also 4 holes at the corners of the chassis.

These are for adjusting body position and "roll", and make a big difference to handling !!.

VBR Chris.
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
they might aswell put put blown diffusers on em too, just to make it an even bigger leap forward lol. its a fantastic car, think i'll be ordering a 6r4 at this rate lol
one other thing, do the screws go in from the underside of the axle or above? got a fly f40 and i remember the grub screws above and below the axle if i remember right
feel quite a prat asking "novice knowledge" lol
i did notice the brass weights around the body screw mounts, great way to add the weight without taking up space on the floor pan!
bought a slot it mclaren f1 and nissan r390 to get on terms with too lol
progress for ya lol

thanks for quick replies!
 

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Tel
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4,031 Posts
QUOTE (McCrash @ 8 Feb 2012, 16:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>one other thing, do the screws go in from the underside of the axle or above? got a fly f40 and i remember the grub screws above and below the axle if i remember right
feel quite a prat asking "novice knowledge" lol
i did notice the brass weights around the body screw mounts, great way to add the weight without taking up space on the floor pan!

Ideally you want grub screws top and bottom, I can't recall, but I think they are already some in the bottom ?

Re the brass weights, it would have been a good idea if they came off the posts ! mine seem well fixed :/
And TBH they would be much better on the floorplan, I prefer weight low.
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
will have to have a closer look to see if there are some screws in place at the bottom of the axle, the holes above the axle look too small for the grub screws but will have a better look later. just worried incase i break my new toy
lol
 

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Lee Beswick
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1,217 Posts
QUOTE (CJA @ 8 Feb 2012, 13:58) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ey Up Guys,

There are also 4 holes at the corners of the chassis.

These are for adjusting body position and "roll", and make a big difference to handling !!.

VBR Chris.

How would you know Chris...your Scooby is rubbish! Oh no, no, no...got that wrong didn't I, it's absolutely amazing!!!!
A 4wd car that is nearly as quick as a Mosler...gotta see it to believe it
 

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2,799 Posts
Ey Up,

Thanks Lee for that sort of, Oh yes, type of endorsement !!??.

Yes, it is quick, but bear in mind it has a Slot-It offset sidewinder mount with a Scale Auto 25k motor.

Some guys reading this will be restricted by their club rules from enjoying such superlative performance !!??.

Sorry to all of those so afflicted, it is phenomenal.

vbr Chris A.

ps: The belt drive pulley is drilled out and mounted on the spur gear boss, driven by the gear grub-screw, and trapped there by the wheel hub.
 

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270 Posts
QUOTE (Savage @ 8 Feb 2012, 17:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Ideally you want grub screws top and bottom, I can't recall, but I think they are already some in the bottom ?

Re the brass weights, it would have been a good idea if they came off the posts ! mine seem well fixed :/
And TBH they would be much better on the floorplan, I prefer weight low.

I think the brass weights have something to do with minimum body weight regulations in Spanish Rally Slot comps.

Just got hold of one of these and, as with all MSC cars, the best thing you can do is change the axles to Slot.it or Sloting Plus. The quality of the existing ones is very poor.
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
been looking for a "how to" set up and tune thread for msc cars, could someone point me towards such a guide if there is one please?
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
hello once again!
finally getting round to tinker with the new toy, has anyone managed to put any grub srews in one of these above the front axle? it only had 6 grub screws with it (but i can see possibly 8 places for them to go), which went in each corner of the chassis and two under the front axle. the screws wounldn't fit into the tiny holes above the front axle. are they mean't to have any screws in place above the front axle????
also has anyone noticed if the front axle rests on both grub screws at the bottom? both screws are equal in height but the axle never seems to sit square on them?? can u tell i'm new to more advanced pieces of kit??? lol

thanks
mark
 

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Ey Up McCrash,

Yes, you should have screws top and bottom for the front axle.

Set the ride height of axle and guide without the belt fitted.

When all is right with the world then refit the belt.

It is usually best to fit two belts if you can, extra friction I know, but it avoids the sideways pull of a single belt.

This is relatively easy on the in-line version, but virtually impossible on A/W or Sidewinder configs.

With regard to ballast ( we race non magnet routed track ) 3g behind guide, 3g each side on the "pans", and 5g on front of motor pod.

Mine has the offset sidewinder pod, with ScaleAuto 25k motor on 10:34 gearing.

Good Luck, Chris A.
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
d'oh! only 6 screws came with it! lol none of the screws would fit above the axle unless a bit of force is applied and i don't fancy that. a phone call to pendles is the best answer to that one. unless there is a trick to it that i don't know lol
think i spent too long with bog standard scaley and scx cars lol i haven't got a clue with em! the msc 6r4 has everything already there in place, just needs few tweeks. but this one got screws missing! ne mind loose lol


ps: glad it wasn't just me taking note that the belt pulls the axle a bit out of line!
thanks!
mark
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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2,015 Posts
I'm thinking that if you have only ever run standard Scalextric cars before and are using standrad Scalex controllers, you may find the extra amp drain through the motor leaves you with quite a poor performing slug of a car that works like on on/off switch. You'll know this if the car only shifts in 1cm of trigger movement and is impossible to control. It may even overheat your controller.

If anything like this happens then you may need a lower ohm controller.
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well i've cured the front axle prob, opened up the screw hole above the axle and took two screws out from the front corners and job done! no more floating front wheels!
happy boy!
is it a very common prob with the better cars Screwneck?
only other car i had before, that wasn't scaley or scx was a fly f40 and thats been ok. if i do have probs with controllers whats the best and cheapest hardware to buy/use. using scaley analogue track/controllers at the moment.
thanks
mark
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
can anyone advise me on what controller is better for higher spec motors? i'm starting to realise how deep the rabbit hole goes!! lol
 

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Tel
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4,031 Posts
Depends what you want to pay !
But if you are going to get serious, a quality controller will make all the difference, a good electronic one is great investment.
There are a few out there, but I can only vouch for what I know:

I have a TruSpeed club MK1 (since discontinued, I believe the replacement is the BP Mk1, which looks like its about to be replaced too !) http://www.truspeed.co.uk/index.php?page_id=20
I have had mine around 2 years, just had it serviced and a custom modification made by Steve (Mr Tru-Speed) and couldn't be happier with it

The controller is an excelllent bit of kit, and nothing short of 5 star service from Steve, which counts for a lot in my book.
 

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Mark
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735 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
need to speak to bank manager asap! lol
what ohm rating is best to be looking at? only really for at home use. had no idea that u can buy throttles with brake adjustment, traction control etc.....
well with the demise of my fave hobby of xbox/playstation, as my local gamestation store closed today i guess i got more funds availiable
 

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Tel
Joined
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4,031 Posts
The above doesn't have an ohm rating as per the "traditional" style controller, that is one of the benefits.
The one I linked has a sensitivity adjustment, in basic terms, it gives you the same result as different ohm controllers depending on how you set it up.

If you don't want to run to that, email truspeed about the new diode controller replacement. The old model had 3 sensitivity settings and 4 brake settings via switches.
The old model was £42 (may be some left, but I am unsure ??) so I imagine the new model is going to be similar.

Or for around £24 you can get a Parma economy controller, no brake adjustments. On these you will need to work out what sort of motors you are running on what track and ask advice for the correct ohms rating to suit. These will be an improvement over the stock scalextric controllers, but the only lack the flexability over a good electronic controller.
 
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