[A_S]

Hi all

I've just got my hands on an MSC impreza and keen to make it equivelent to the rest of my late 90s rally cars which are all SCX 4WD.

Its Brand new in box so I've not taken it out yet, but pending the shaft length being long enough and the wheel base equivelent enough to the SCX cars does anyone know of anyone who would do a new chassis to fit this motor OR a motor caddy thingy that will allow me to put that motor in a chassis thats made to take a motor caddy/mount?

Apologies, quite new to all this "new chassis" stuff and I see a plethora of 3d printed options, all without sufficient narative for a newbie to understand..!

 

[StuBeeDoo]

You could try what I did with my Scalextric Impreza bodies. I fabricated new body posts, and mounted the bodies on SCX chassis. One was an early (Tyco-era) Impreza chassis, and the other a Tecnitoys-era Lancer chassis.
Of course, this all depends on the wheelbase being near enough the same...........

 

[Autoavia]

The usual reason for buying a 3D chassis is to improve the performance of a car so 3D chassis offered for the Impreza will be 2WD as generally speaking 2WD cars are faster partly because of less frictional loss and also because 4WD cars have a tendency to go straight on at corners.
Is there any reason why you chose the MSC Impreza over a SCX version?

 

[zero5]

RX4 motor mount - Slot.it compatible by 3D_Olifer on Shapeways

Check out RX4 motor mount - Slot.it compatible by 3D_Olifer on Shapeways and discover more 3D printed products in Vehicles.

www.shapeways.com

Think this is what you want

John

 

[alexis in greece]

If the MSC chassis is poded and Slot.it compatible (accepts slot.it motor pods),i have a 3d printed motor pod for RX motors t

 

[StuBeeDoo]

Is there any reason why you chose the MSC Impreza over a SCX version?

SCX never made that particular Impreza (yet.....). AFAIK only Scalextric and MSC have done it.

 

[Kevan]

Hi all

I've just got my hands on an MSC impreza and keen to make it equivelent to the rest of my late 90s rally cars which are all SCX 4WD.

That should be easy, take the MSC motor out and put a slower Ninco motor in.

 

[A_S]

Thanks for this guys really helpful

MSC3200B MSC Subaru Impreza WRC Chassis – Medium

<p><strong><span style="font-size: small;">Product Features and Specs</span></strong></p> <p><span style="font-size: small;">Replacement Chassis for MSC Subaru Impreza</span><br /><span style="font-size: small;">Type: Medium </span><br /><span style="fon

atomicslotcars.com.au

I guess this is the chassis - is this slot.it compatible?

 

[Autoavia]

If I have understood correctly you want to put an SCX 4wd motor in a chassis to go under the MSC Subaru.
The chassis in the link appears to have front axle mounts which allow you to adjust the axle height which would affect the gear mesh and there is no cut out for a crown gear for the front axle.
The SCX 4wd chassis don't have a seperate motor pod because if the motor can move the front axle gears won't mesh properly.
I don't think you will find a chassis for the MSC Subaru that will allow you to use the SCX 4wd motor. Kevan's suggestion to fit a slower motor in the MSC chassis is probably your best bet.

 

[A_S]

The lack of the crown wheel hole is not a problem - I can cut one, as I’ll be cutting a hole to digitise anyway.

not to up on adjusting axle night but as long as it’s set right and doesn’t move then There should be no problem?

 

[A_S]

I believe this would be the standard one from scaleauto

Scaleauto Chassis Subaru Impreza WRC Standard

Scaleauto Evo2 Chassis Subaru Impreza WRC Standard 1:32 scale.

www.pendleslotracing.co.uk

 

[Autoavia]

The chassis in post #8 and post #11 are both designed to take a motor pod which is supported on screws. The motor and the rear axle assembly are all mounted on the pod which is designed so that you control the degree of pod float by tightening or loosening the screws which hold the pod to the main chassis. This allows you to get the best handling set up for your track. Because the axle and motor are both mounted on the pod any movement of the whole pod has no effect on the gear mesh. Movement of the pod would affect the front axle gear mesh.
The MSC chassis and both those above have the front axle supported on 2 grub screws screwed in from underneath and 2 screwed in from above and you adjust the screws to get the maximum amount of the guide blade in the slot with the front wheels still touching the ground.
On plastic track most people run the front axle with a little up and down movement to prevent the front from bouncing up in the air over track joints. On a wood track you set the grub screws to allow as little up and down movement as possible without the front axle binding in the screws.
The grub screws only control the axle height. They don't control front and back movement of the axle although on some chassis you can put Slotit bushes in the front axle supports to help control front to back movement.
Even with the grub screws set to give the least possible movement of the front axle and Slotit bushes I don't think it will be rigid enough to get gears to mesh properly. Cutting a hole in the chassis to make room for a front crown gear will make matters worse as it will make the chassis more prone to twisting which will cause even more problems with gear mesh.
A further problem will be that to get a decent gear mesh you need to set the front axle so that the centre of the motor shaft is level with the centre of the crown wheel and it is very unlikely that this will be the best height to get the maximum amount of guide in the slot although you can use spacers to get the guide lower.
The above is complicated but I have explained it as best I can. It is far easier when someone is beside you and you can actually use a car and chassis to demonstrate the problems.

I have got a MSC Metro 6R4 and a Ford RS 200. Both have adjustable front axle height but the front wheels are driven by a belt so there is no need for the front axle to be level with the centre of the motor shaft and the belt will tolerate some back and forward movement of the axle. I would imagine your Subaru chassis is much the same.

I am not trying to pour cold water on your plans just for the sake of it. I am simply trying to save a newbie the expense of buying new parts which I don't believe will allow you to achieve a MSC Subaru with 4 wheel drive powered by an SCX 4wd motor.

Your best chance is to try to find an existing SCX 4wd chassis which can be adapted to fit under the MSC body. Alternatively one of the businesses that make 3D printed chassis might design you a custom made chassis but a decent chassis takes many hours of design work and testing so the cost would be prohibitive.
If I were in your situation as a newbie I would be inclined to accept that it isn't a viable project and try to even things up as far as possible by fitting a lower powered motor in the Subaru.

 

[Kevan]

It seems a dead simple thing to achieve, an MSC 4WD with the same performance as an SCX 4WD...simply fit a slower motor in the MSC, no hacking and chopping and bodging and some time in the future will be 100% reversible if necessary ie when you decide to sell it.

 

[A_S]

Thanks both

i really appreciate the advice and the effort gone into explain it all there autoavia. I am in no rush so tile the think

hadking an existing chassis like you and stu say maybe the best option!

 

[Autoavia]

I am glad to help although others inevitably don't always agree with my advice but strangely in this particular case no one, other than Kevan, has replied.
As Kevan said a slower motor in the MSC chassis is the easiest and probably cheapest alternative. It is also easily reversible if you don't like the result and I suspect you will find the MSC chassis much nicer to drive than SCX.

I am not a rally enthusiast. My main interests are sportscars, classic saloons and classic F1. I bought the Metro 6R4 and RS200 because they are iconic cars from what I regard as a great era in rallying and those 2 cars also dominated Rallycross for a good few seasons but MSC do make some great rally cars which can be made to run really well with a few tweaks. I got both my cars secondhand for a good price.
Rather than trying to modify the MSC Subaru to equalise the performance with your SCX rally cars you might consider acquiring some more MSC cars to race against each other and effectively have two separate classes of cars.

 

[A_S]

Thanks for the advice. If I was to do this I would be buying a seperate chassis to try it on anyway, so keeping the original in a good state. Therefore no real loss if it didn’t work

 

[A_S]

I think I will give it ago, nothing to loose really, I appreciate this is not what everyone would do, but its what works for me and not everyone is looking for the fastest or simplist solution and I'd rather focus on help getting it done rather than the question of whether its the right thing to do or not! so...

The wheelbase is the same as my SCX Impreza of the same generation.

So,

1.) I can buy a second Chassis from Pendle here
2.) I can get a motor mount as above - Alexis I'llPM

That sorts out the main bits.

However I still need to get the axle and wheels sorted.

Axle: Seems to be the same Dia. as the SCX (within 0.02mm or so) still need to check the width. If not can find 2x equivelent gears/pinions.

Wheels I need some help.

I've tried googling around today R.e wheel inserts. I get the principle, but there is very little information out there of how to put it into action and what it all means for a "Newbie". A certain Level of knowledge is assumed, and thats above my level at the moment!

I've found a couple of inserts I'd like to buy

Wheel covers Type Subaru 15,8mm Titanium (Comp. Scaleauto)

question I am not sure what "hubs" I'd need to fit these and what I need to secure them to the axle? It seems I need some form of scale auto axle? presumably 15.8mm Diameter? or is that the inner diameter? not clear.

after that I need to secure the axle in one position. I can see there are 2 holes for screws under the body and 2 on top of the axle mounts what type/dia of screws do i need for these places

I figure that if the resistance is an issue doing the above, I can always solder an axle bearing onto the inner 2 screws to hold the wheels in the plain that I need.

 

[A_S]

so.. despite the lack of enthusiasm for the idea here... most of my parts have arrived.

However on giving the current car a run in out the box condition - it seems my crown wheel thingy has seperated from the pinion on the motor at the rear. all of a suden the car stopped moving.

Bit surprised as I can't freely move the wheels - seems to have either worn away the teeth or come loose. What do you think? And how could this happen? I've only ran it twice and it was as new with cable ties still on and everything.

 

[Kevan]

The 'crown wheel thingy' should have a grub screw in the aluminium boss to stop it moving sideways away from the pinion.

 

[A_S]

having inspected the photos of when i first got it, clearly some of the wheel has been worn away. So I'll have to get my hands on a replacement at some point! It must not have been seated correctly as I can't freely move it on the axle.