[Kevan]

If the photos show the current state of the crown gear it looks OK to me but there shouldn't be a gap between the brass boss and flat face of the crown gear, it looks like the crown needs moving towards the pinion by about 1mm.

 

[beardy56]

That crown gear looks over complicated, normally, with most gears, the crown and hub are all one part with just the grub screw in the hub locking the the gear to the axle and the gap in the hub keeps the gear aligned with the motor spindle. The one you have looks like you need to lock the hub to the axle and then press the crown against the hub and then lock it to the axle with another grub screw.

Points to consider, both pinions and crown gears need to be the same size. If you are going to use the axle with the plastic crown than you need to check the number of teeth and get one to match. If the front axle height is adjustable you can tighten the pod screws to stop it moving and align the axle and motor spindle with the front axle height screws. If the front axle can't be adjusted and the motor is to low you could try fitting spacers between the pod and chassis or you could replace the front axle and crown and try a Slot.It offset crown gear, this may also work if the motor is a bit to high. It looks like the guide has a long stem which is designed to let the guide drop down so you should have any problems with shallow guide depth.

 

[Kevan]

I'd fit a spacer between the crown gear metal hub and the bearing block to stop the crown gear moving sideways once the grub screw is locked in position.

 

[A_S]

Thanks guys

The placement shouldn’t be too much of a problem as I’ll just use the scx axles I have spare and these will keep the crown gear in position relative to the motor at both ends.

Regarding keeping the front axle rigid in the vertical plain I’ve still to decide how to do that. It looks like if I get the right screw I can lock it in position between rhis screw and the base of the floor pan which has a raised area which see,a designed to seat the axle. I’ll have a look. The other option is to mill a brass insert to go into the wheel housing area.

I’ll get my Allen keys out this evening and check out moving the current crown wheel to see if that fixes the current problem

 

[A_S]

I didn’t quite realise how small the grub screw is. I don’t have an Allan key small enough and don’t fancy filling one down! Does anyone know if there is a standard size. I’ll have a look on the Scaleauto website in the meantime

 

[Kevan]

The two sizes you need are 0.9mm and 1.3mm
0.9mm for SlotIt wheels and gears, 1.3mm for NSR. The 0.9mm will fit other manufacturers also.

 

[A_S]

Thanks I’ll have to get my hands on some

in the meantime the pod from alexis has arived and all fits well with a bit of sawing

so next step is to buy the bush for the rear wheel and work out what to do about the front.

the axle is very tight with the plastic surround - it must be made for a smaller diameter axle to the scx ones.

So I may have to file out the area a bit to get it to fit.

I’ll fix the axle in position. What are my options here?

I can use the screwhole in the top and bottom of the chassis but wondering if that will give too much resistance?

alternative is to mill out a custom bush out of brass.

 

[A_S]

anyone got any advice or I'll post a seperate post in the 1/32 scale section of the message board.

I am also thinking it may work to get slightly smaller diameter axles if the SCX ones are too big and an equivelent gear to fit that axle.

I've also saw that the chassis that comes with the car has some spacers between the wheel and the chassis mounting point to stop any sideplay. I thought thats a good idea incase the drive shaft of the motor its too short to stop any side play.

Can anyone advise where to get some? Will post a picture in a minute

 

[A_S]

You can see the brass spacer stopping any side play to the left of the hole. Not got the car with me at the moment so butchering an old photo hence the wrong angle and lack of quality!

 

[A_S]

Still going on this time has been very limited in the last month.

been trying to ask scale auto the length of axle I need as the front and rear have a different track. However their general lack of any response isn’t helping - as a ‘newbie’ to this level of involvement I’m finding that a lot (or not a lot so to speak..) and its rather frustrating.

Does anyone know the required axle lengths front and rear?

 

[driver#8]

No but I will happily check for you this evening.

 

[Kevan]

For axle spacers use 1/8" brass tube
...or 8BA washers which are just big enough to fit over a 3/32" axle