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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On another topic I have recently admitted that I do not have the skills to make a multi-coloured car.

Serving as a Sergeant Major within the Royal Danish Guard Hussars I hate weakness, so I decided to have another go! Please see below my latest creation for the French GP at Reims, July 4, 1954:



Harry Schell
#48 Maserati A6GCM - Harry Schell

And the result clearly proves, that I am still not able to do a decent two-coloured car!!!!

But if I hate weakness - failure is not an option. So how can I give poor Harry a decent and smooth front bonnet? I use Tamiya spray and canned paint.

/Holger

NB! Car is made out of a Dave Jones shell, PP chassis and Cartrix wheels, and if you miss the white nose cone on this famous Harry Schell livery, I can just state, that I can only find two photos of him and his car from that day on Reims, and - although blurred - they both clearly shows that no white nose cone was sported that particular day.
 

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A/ Give the first colour at least a week to dry.
B/ Use the best quality masking tape-I always use Tamiya.
C/ Don't mix paint types. If you do the main coat with Halfords for instance, use Halfords for the second one.
I hope this is of use to you- I must say your Maserati looks OK to me anyway. We can't all be Michele Conti....
TED..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TED + Kev - it is the quality - or lack of quality - of my photo, which do not give my Maser credit.

The white front bonnet looks like a bomb crater. I painted it in hand with Tamiya canned paint and the result i a disaster. Not only my clear hand but also the ability of the white to cover the blue. It looks like plastered on????

Help wanted!

/Holger
 

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One petunia in a field of onions
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I'm not overly experienced when it comes to spray painting. But for most things it is best to coat with the lightest colour first. So in this instance, I'd be inclined to spray the whole model in white and then mask it and spray the blue. Others may disagree with this take on things. But white varies greatly in its covering ability over darker colours. It is always inclined to 'break' in density over edges and sharp corners. Any paint will do this, but it is most obvious where lighter colours are applied over darker ones.

The 'bomb crater' finish that you describe is probably what is known as 'orange peel' (for it's similarity in texture). This is usually due to application technique. I'm sure that others more experienced than I will be able to help you out on its causes.

Embs
 

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I agree with Ember re; spraying white first. Also, plenty of light coats of paint rather than one thick one. Above all, I wouldn't give up-I still think your Gordini is a good job.
TED..
 

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  1. The best technique is don't rush. Rushing a paint job is your biggest enemy.
  2. I always use acrylic paints now, they dry quickly and leave a lovely finish. I find Humbrol to be the best.
  3. Warm the paint can up in warm water and shake the paint really well . . . . then shake it some more . . .
  4. I always try to spray in bright sunshine out doors if I can.
  5. That way you aren't breathing in any fumes.
  6. Use a thin base coat of primer.
  7. Paint the white first as suggested by those above and leave it overnight.
  8. Mask off the bonnet with Tamiya tape, it costs more but then so does frustration at getting the job messed up!
  9. Then paint the blue.
  10. If ever a paint job looks like it is going wrong STOP walk away and come back to it later.
  11. Remain calm. Stop trying to aim for perfection and you will find it drops in your lap without any effort.
  12. Drink cups of tea between coats of paint. Its a great way to make sure that each coat has the opportunity to set a little.
  13. You also remain hydrated!
  14. Don't spray at night in damp conditions. I find it makes the paint go a bit flat and leaves a Matt finish.
 

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Slot King
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QUOTE (circuittaps @ 8 Sep 2012, 13:31) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The white front bonnet looks like a bomb crater. I painted it in hand with Tamiya canned paint and the result i a disaster. Not only my clear hand but also the ability of the white to cover the blue. It looks like plastered on????

Holger

Did you brush paint the white?
If yes then that is the problem, Tamiya acrylic tends to disolve the the paint beneath as you add more coats, and the finish gets worst as you go along (apparently all acrylics do that to a lesser or greater extent).

Either way, this is what I do for this sort of 2 tone apintwork:
I spray a piece of clear decal with white car paint and wait about 1Hr (time is critical you have between 1 and 3 hours) The solvent in the paint soften the decal dramatically and it will conform to any shape you want. I find it easier than masking and no danger of the top colour cracking either.

If you don't wait long enough, it is like chewing gum, if you wait too long it dries too hard.

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Guys - a lot of good advises. Thansk a lot.

If I have to do some conclusions on this, my main errors seems to be painting the white part at last - and painting it with a brush.

But if I have to do it the other way round, I have to improve my masking skills. Spending a lot of money on Tamiya masking tape I have still not figured out how to mask - for example - a front bonnet? I can with some success mask a clear line and make a nose cone, but curved lines or closed areas on the shell? Help wanted!

/Holger
 

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Have a read of some model car and model aircraft forums you will find lots of tips and advise. The only flat parts of an aircraft are the wings the reast is all curves.
Tamiya masking tape is very flexiable and follows contures very well, has very little bleed and is low tack.
Get some od shaped pices ood or some old bodies or kirs and just practice masking, use normal masking tape cut in to strips and jist brush paint till you get it right. You can over paint and mask till it ok. Also have a look as liquid mask for on fill difficault shapes. Use cotton wool and tissue paper for filling voids.
And remember if it all goes wrong you can always strip the paint and start again, even the experst get it wrong sometimes.

Best of luck
 

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I think you're very close, Holger...two minor points I'd like to add to the many excellent suggestions to date. One is perhaps obvious....but after
applying your Tamiya masking tape, be sure to press firmly along the side which needs to be tight and prevent any paint bleeding through. That
extra rub along the edge is very helpful...watch for any panel lines or other details as well and be sure the tape conforms nicely to everything
underneath.

The second is simply that when applying your second color coat...the darker color, apply a light coat or two, as has been suggested, but also
hold the car a bit farther away so that the first light coat or two arrives on the car somewhat dry...a "dust coat." When you then apply a somewhat
heavier "wet" coat afterwards all the dissolving that takes place will be of the dust coat, not the original color below. This is a good approach for even
the base coat when applied over a primer.

Be aware that all of this is only relevant to acrylics, no matter how long a lower acrylic coat has been drying a new wet coat will dissolve it a bit.
This is a good thing, great for adhesion...just something to be mindful of.

I look forward to seeing your next effort!!
 

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The tamiya masking tape is really not very expensive, you can get it readily off eBay and it is EXCELLENT. You can make it curve too.
It comes i 3 sizes 6mm 10mm and 18mm the rolls are I think 10m long so there is plenty there. The smaller 6mm is easiest to use as it curves better. Its about £4 for a roll including P&P

I would paint the car blue first.

then mask up the area. Yes the body is curved but it looks like the lines are straight. The tape will mask the white rectangle really easily.
it will be a 10 min job no more than that.

The reason i wouldnt paint the car white all over first is because I try not to paint over paint especially in high impact areas. As the white area is very low impact i would paint all over blue then let it dry for min 48 hours. Then mask off and paint white.

Note you dont have to mask off the entire car, that would be a waste of masking tape. Just mask round the edge of the rectangle. then get a freezer/sandwich bag and put the car in it. You know how in surgery they put a cloth over the person and then have a small gap in the cloth they work through, well do that. Make a hole in the bag a little bigger than the white rectangle. Position the hole over the white rectangle then use more masking tape just to seal the gap between the bag and the carbody. So in effect you have the whole car in the bag with just the white rectangle exposed to the air now. Then spray away. Three thin coats should cover it.

Oh and if you need a hand email me at [email protected] I can show you pics etc of how i would do it.
 

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Brilliant tips! I was always embarrassed with my attempts at painting, but with these tips I am definitely going to try again
Thanks!
 

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Alfie Noakes
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QUOTE (Ian H @ 8 Sep 2012, 22:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Remain calm. Stop trying to aim for perfection and you will find it drops in your lap without any effort.

I reckon that could work for absolutely anything. It's a genius bit of advice!
Richard
 
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