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86 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, since I don't have a store in my hometown, hell in my state, I need some advice. I would like to place an order for stuff that will help tune a car for my track. Type Track Carrera, more turns than straights.

I figure gears, pinion, etc. What size? New guides?



Matt Tucker
3,699 Posts
If you plan to 'upgrade' your cars then I recomend the Slot-it parts. There gears mesh beutifully, wheels are round, axle is tight in the bushings and they have no slop in them. Guides can be made to fit mosr RTR and when they do they have min slop. However you are on a slippery and expensive slope.

I bought a couple of sets of Slot-it parts (2 starter kits: one each in-line and s/w (about £12 each); 2 packets of 4 pinions: one each for in-line and s/w (£3 each) 6 diff crownwheels (£3 each) and swap them round the cars depending on which I'm racing competitively (depending on rules). For home racing I use car just as they come and maybe swap a pinion if the gearing is not right.

For gearing/tyre diam combination that best suits your track and driving style best to try em out. Slot-it stuff is easy to change (little hex wrench for crownwheel and wheels, a pinion puller (e.g Ninco) for the pinion).

To work out the gearing divide crownwheel teeth by pinion tettch and gives you a ratio, e.g 28 on crownwheel and 9 on pinion - 3.1. The higher the ratio the better the acceleration/braking but lower top speed, and vice versa. If you add tyre diameter in to the equation it provides a more accurate calc as your car will travel further for every one rev if tyres are bigger

calc for this is (care of Rob Wessling): No. of pinion teeth X 3.141 (pie) X Tire Diameter divided by No. of crownwheel teeth = Millimeters per revolution

Work out what gearing or mm per rev ratio suits you and set your cars up accordingly.

Have fun with it but as stated previuosly you are entering a money sapping phase of your hobby w/o more cars being added to your stable

Premium Member
469 Posts
If you have a short track (lots of curves) the cheapest and best initial upgrade is gears. For FLY and Scalex sidewinders go with the TSRF 1/24 scale set. They are 11/48 ratio and really work on short tracks even with stock motors. Price is less than 2 bucks a set and they will fit your stock axles if you don't want to replace the wheels/axles. There's also a set of 14/45s (marked as 1/32 scale) for longer tracks. Take a look at: and for pics.

For inline drive cars Slotit gears are good but a little expensive. Many of the Eurocars run a 9/27 ratio or similar which is better suited for medium sized tracks. You can go to an 8 tooth pinion and this should help you out on shorter tracks. You may need to use some axle spacers to take up the gear slop. FLY P/N B25 is 2 each 8 tooth pinions and they are fairly cheap. You can also change the crown to one with more teeth and again there are choices from several MFGRS that will fit stock axles if you don't want to go to the expense of replacing the drivetrain with Slotit parts. Ninco has an 8 tooth pinion/32 tooth crown combo (Old Part #80203) and a 7/33 (P/N80202) These will fit any of your Ninco cars.
For guides you have a couple choices. First FLY and Slotit both have deeper guides available that use the standard Eurocar setup and requires little or no modification to the car. TSRF makes a better guide but you will need to do some cutting to the chassis on most cars. The advantage to these guides, though, is that they have wide commercial type braid and there is no slop in the guide axle. Both of these items are considered deficiencies on the Euro type cars.

These are the 2 things I would work first on each car. After that tires (PPs supertires) would be next. Motors would be the last thing to upgrade but on a short track with little or no magnet downforce hotter motors don't do much for you, in fact, in some cases your times may actually increase. For medium and high downforce setups motors are very beneficial. Choices here are many.

If you haven't looked at it you might want to take a quick look at my tuning article at: It's a little old now but the info is still valid. An update is in the works and will show up at SCI site soon.
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