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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone suggest a remedy?

My (Ninco) Porsche 356-A "Eva Peron" spins her rear wheels in-place when exiting a turn of 60 degrees or more. Sometimes she stays there for nearly a full second before moving on or de-slotting all together.

My Guatemala version behaves exactly the opposite; yet I can't discern any apparent differences between the cars.

I'm not sure if this is significant, but both cars display equal speed in the straights and both handle cross-over tracks without any problems. Also, the car in question is much noisier than the better one.

I've been experimenting with button magnets, which work well on the better car...but as you could imagine do very little for my problem child.

Anyone?

Thank you.

-John
 

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Interesting....possibly some binding in the front end? Does the rear end fish-tail around in the straights? (possible mis-alignment of the rear axle?) Also, are the rear wheels round? That is have you tried truing them? Those are things that immediately come to mind. Do both cars have the same tires? Both with soft rubber? Does the lane matter? Time for more study, can't be that complex.
 

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Dave Kennedy
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Do you have weight in the car?

DK
 

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Alan Tadd
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Could be the guide, or the motor wires getting trapped. Try the chassis without the body..

Regards

Alan
 

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does the car slide out like a powerslide and then stay in the slid out position? one of my DTM cars does this on hairpins cos the magnet holds it against the other rail, (only when running on the inside lane) and the faster spinning inside wheel keeps it there for a bit. means i almost stop
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gentlemen:

A few answers:

For Harry ...
1. No problems in the straights.
2. Tires seem round although sometimes rear-end hops through turns.
3. Inside lane with tighter radius is worse but not dramatically different.

For DK...
1. I'll try weights, perhaps clay, along the middle-insides of chassis...

For Alan
1. Worse without body...almost undrivable on any turn.
2. Same guide action between cars.

Most thankful,

John
 

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Skeeter:

Looked into your suggestion and found that the button magnet I'm using is located in center of chassis, directly over the display-case screw hole, so there's not enough reach for it into next lane.

Though, this did happen to me with the new rear-magnet Carrera chassis (Jag D-Type). Still not sure what good that x-tra magnet does.

Thanks,
John
 

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I had the same "stuck in the corner, spinning its wheels" problem with a Carrera D type after I swapped in an NC-1. Glueing the tires to the wheels with some black silicone adhesive may solve the problem.

Paul
Circuit TrustChrist
 

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[...had the same "stuck in the corner, spinning its wheels" problem with a Carrera D-type after I swapped in an NC-1]

Paul:

I'll try your suggestion...thank you.

In the meantime, I too would love to replace the 26K R.P.M. motor in my D-Jag (1960 SCCA model) with something more scale in power like a milder NC-1 or 2. Don't understand why every Carrera model has to fly with F-1-like speed and down-force.

Anyway, how difficult is the swap? Is there much part-replacement or is the operation quite natural? I'm new to this and not too handy.

Thanks.
-John
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Motor changing is a simple job, you need to ensure you have the right motor type with regards to the correct end for the pinion. Then it is a simple pinion replacement (see Ninco pinion press) and a quick soldering job.

Spinning - Have you checked the wheels are not slipping on the axles and that the pinion gear is not slipping on the shaft OR the crown gear on the axle?
Another cause could be a sticky guide post or the guide is sticking in the slot, what track are you using?

Lastly, maybe the tyres have gone hard? try replacing them (Ortmanns are wonderful but hard to find depending on where you live) or running them lightly on a fine grade sandpaper. WD40 lightly applied will also work but it is a short term/frequent job.

Hope this helps.
 

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[...Another cause could be a sticky guide post or the guide is sticking in the slot...]

Not sure...but on certain straight parts of my Artin track the car tends to pull to one side, sort of herky-jerky as you lightly pump the trigger in short bursts. Does this indicate a sticky guide or might it be poor wheel alignment?

[...Spinning - Have you checked the wheels are not slipping on the axles and that the pinion gear is not slipping on the shaft OR the crown gear on the axle?]

Quite sure this stuff is O.K.

I think I'm going to give the tires a modest sanding at first and see what happens. Do you have any good techniques for doing such?

Much appreciated.

-John
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Let's start over.

Perhaps, this is the easiest question to ask: What would make one car drift much further than its twin, often to the point of de-slotting?

Thanks,
John
 

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Allan Wakefield
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hard or perished tyres.

Take a small, flat block of wood say 3 mm thick and 100 mm by 60 mm wide.
Glue some (minimum) 800 grade sandpaper (for metal is better than for wood because the glass chips tend to flake off), trim it to fit.

Place the car in question facing backwards on the track, get someone to give you full power and gently lower the cars rear wheels onto the sandpaper until the tyres just touch.
Move the car from side to side slowly and increase pressure slightly. Do NOT do this for more than a couple of seconds at a time but frequent repeats until the surface of the tyre is evenly removed.
Using a nail file (bendy throw away wooden type) and, with power still on, chamfer the edges of the tyres away so they dont dig in on corners and flip the car, a rounded profile like the Slot.It tyres is best.

If this does not work replace the tyres.

OR

Replace the tyre anyway, cant hurt much but your wallet a little.

OR really kick the crap out of your wallet and get a full tyre truing machine


Keep coming back if you have more Q's, you are more than welcome.
 

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Hi Wenceslas,

On putting an NC-1 in a Carrera D type Jag, the easiest way is to use one of the new chassis. These have an additional magnet in the rear (to be discarded) but - most importantly - they have 3:1 gearing with a 9 tooth pinion and 27 tooth crown.

The older chassis were 2.6:1 with a 10 tooth crown and 26 tooth pinion. The old gear ratio was largely responsible for the high top end speed.



With the new chassis, you should go ahead and pull the Ninco pinion off the NC-1 and replace it with the Carrera 9 tooth pinion. I have not personally checked to see if there is a difference in pitch between the Ninco and Carrera 9 tooth pinions but others who had done this said the Ninco pinion would chew up the Carrera crown gear. The Ninco gear puller-pusher tool is easy and painless to use.

The motor cans are the same size, so it is just a matter of prying out the old can and pushing in the NC-1.



For other Carrera vintage sports cars - like the Mercedes, Maserati, and Aston Martin - they have not been produced with the new chassis and 3:1 gearing as far as I know. It is easy to replace the motor - even on those cars with a spring linking the motor to the driveshaft - but to change the gearing you need to buy Slot.it replacement bearings for Carrera (Prof. Motor has them) and Slot.it 3/32 axles plus source some wheels (BWA wheels from Prof. Motor are a good choice). You'll also need a Slot.it pinion and crown gear.



It is difficult to re-use the Carrera wheels because the axles are knurled making the wheels hard to remove, plus I think the axle is not 3/32, have not measured it.

The swap was easy on the new chassis D Jag and turned the car into almost a Ninco Classic. It braked, you could hit max speed on most straights, and it no longer turned over when it deslotted - just spins out. The front end is light, so if you remove the regular magnet you need to add some lead. I just pushed the magnet as for towards the guide as possible.



Hope this helps,
Paul
Circuit TrustChrist
 

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Hello Paul:

Thank you so much for the care you've put into your concise motor-transplant explanation.

This is a bold step for me; I think I'm about to purchase a spare NC-1 motor and a gear puller/pushie thingy.


Luckily,
my Jaguar has the newly designed chassis with the rear magnet already ditched. So, there!

I'm gonna do it
and I'll keep you posted.

Thank you.

-John
 

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Jim Moyes
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Paul,

I like the sound of what you're doing with the Carrera classics and am really keen to get them as similar in performance with the Ninco Classics as possible. The Jag sounds like a relatively straightforward exercise. On the other classics would a complete Ninco Classic axle not do the trick? I realise it would mean wire wheels on cars that perhaps didn't run them IRL, but I can live with that in pursuit of varied 50s Sports car grids at the club. Plus I've got a lot of the axle packs as spares.

I know I could try it myself, but there's so many other things I want to do and it sounds like you've already looked into it.

Cheers,

Mr.M

P.S. Just realised this is turning into another thread hijack, sorry wenceslas!
 

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QUOTE Not sure...but on certain straight parts of my Artin track the car tends to pull to one side, sort of herky-jerky as you lightly pump the trigger in short bursts. Does this indicate a sticky guide or might it be poor wheel alignment?
OK,this is the real indicator of what is happening.

I would almost bet money that the front wheel/axle assembly is binding on something(maybe something as simple as the lead wire),and that one wheel is touching the track more than the other(the same side that the tail goes out to on the straights.).

On these cars,you want to limit front axle slop,and also make sure the front wheels carries the weight of the car,and NOT THE GUIDE.This is very important on the Ninco Porsches.I make up small squares of Popsicle stick,and drill a slightly loose hole through them for the axle,cut off the little projections on the outside of the chassis and glue the wood blocks onto the outside of the chassis.First making sure that the guide withe very flat braids,is NOT TOUCHING the RAILS by at least .020".

Here's a pic that explains it better than words.This is actually a Ninco Cobra,and not the Porsche,but,the same setup works here too

 
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