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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I hope some one may be able to shed light on my problem?

firstly my layout is made in 3 sections to enable me to take it from its frame and move it to other locations.ie my mates house, the total length of the boards is 12 feet and the width of the boards is 5 feet so its not masive. My cicuit is one I used before, before I fixed it down
now its not been moved yet as I am ironing out some issues, this slowing down being one of them, were the sections of track are at the board joints are I have made some patch cables running under these removable sections to prevent the cars stopping on these sections and it has fixed this issue, but about 1/3 way round the track the cars start loosing power and by the time they get to the back straight it is quite noticable its not until they come around the final bend they pick up and go again? With the digital system could I run a patch cable from the start straight were my ps is to the far side of the cicuit, much like you could with the old analogue set up of old,
other info that may be usefull my cars are limmited to about 70% to enable my boys to enjoy the racing as full power is to much for them, and to make the racing easyer to follow and for keeping it close.
I also use ssdc and pit pro with 7402 apb

hope you guys have some ideas because I am at a loss and its realy bugging me as it does appear to be a very progressive slowing and a very sudden speeding up
I am trying to get a pic of the lay out posted with some indicators on it to identify the affected areas, this will happen when i work out how to do it

Thanks all

Terance
 

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Prof I T
Ting Tong
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hi
are you running 2 psu's and if so are they 15v hornby one's.
 

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Hi Terance,

Sounds like the electrical continuity in the track connections and I was going to suggest crimping the track connections underneath, but if your track is fixed down it's going to be more difficult. With the power off, you could try pivoting a flat blade screwdriver in the rail at every joint to try and make the joints more snug.
Power taps (patch cable) may help and ok in digital, but are not a substitute for good connections and clean track. It' a bit overkill but if you can unfix the track you could also solder wires across every joint.

Also, make sure the braids are in good condition so that they make good contact with the rails without straggly bits of wire. Some say they they should be angled, others say just the tip should be bent up a bit.

It's been mentioned before but it's also well worth putting a drop of Inox MX3 lanolin based lubricant on the braids and on a bit of rag and wipe it along the rails to clean and them and to make the contact smoother as it leaves a fine layer (don't overdo it though- really minimal amounts is sufficient). WD40 is possible at a pinch but doesn't last and can be sticky.

Chris
 

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Circuit Owner
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A very progressive slowing followed by a sudden speeding up suggests that, at the point your cars suddenly speed up, you have a break in the electrical conductivity of the track. Progressive slowing down as you get further from the power base could mean that the power is dropping of as you get further from its source - a sudden increase means you are picking up the power being fed from the other side as you cross the break. I take it the point at which the cars speed up is far nearer the power base on the side of the break where the cars speed up?

Cure this break and you should get power fed into the track from both directions and from the size of your track I would have thought that would be enough. You could do a power tap from your power base to half way around your track - but you still need to fix the break.

You don't say if this is happening in both lanes or only one.

If none of this works the only other thing I can suggest is checking your rail height - some pieces of Sport track have rails that are slightly lower than normal (due to manufacturing tolerances?). I have a couple of these on my circuit and occasionally cars will stop on them. This is usually with cars that have worn and flattened braids - they simply don't reach the rails. This is easily cured with new braids or bending of existing braids so they spring slightly downwards.

Good luck finding your solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the responce.
I am running 2 psu's, the point at which the cars speed up is about 1 meter ish befor the apb the point they start to slow is about 2meters ish after it, and yes both lanes do appear to be affected. not liking the prospect off hooking the track up to tap each joint but that may be the way to go, it does appear to affect all my cars aswell so it is not braid relaited I dont think, as some have new braids as its the first thing I tried. If it is a break in the current flow it would not be were I would have expexted it to be, as the cars speed up some way after the last removable section in my layout. were it speeds up is a short section between after a group of 4 radius4 corners and a rh lane change corner sensor section, this in turn is half a meter roughly before the next removable section on the layout at the start finnish straight.
hope this may help diagnose the cause.
still tring to get some illustration up so that you have something visual and not my rambling.
thanks again guys
Terance
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·


the yellow arrows indicate were the removable sections are to keep it portable.
the 3 cars are placed were the events appear to occur
and yes both scaly psu's
 

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Run a voltmeter down the rails just either side of the variations. See if you have any noticeable changes. Try it with everything powere up, no car on the track, then try it with a car on the track going at reasonable throttle speed.

What happens in analogue mode?
 

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Ting Tong
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hi
ok as you have confirmed that you have enough current going into the track with 2 psu's then it's time to look at crimping the joints on all the track sections.

Where your boards are joined i would consider jumper wires on these sections with your choice of jack plugs being a good idea.

I would not bother trying to look for voltage differences as 99% of the time it will not reveal anything as it is a current issue you are getting.

Once you have all the track joints crimped and the board sections connected with the jumper cables then there is just one more thing to do to experience digital nirvana and that is to apply some inox to the rails.

It has been said many times but digital tracks thrive on the stuff. If you have any problems getting hold of it just drop me a pm as i have a spare bottle and a little goes a very long way.
 

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Have you done the track maintainance. Laugh and belive, this is the best description of what you need to do.

link

I run upto 20m no problem provided you do this and the INOX3 thing.
 

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I believe you should run a power tap from near the APB to where the silver Ferrari is. This is about 1/2 way round your track so it's the sensible position for a power tap anyway. You could do this with a fly lead so no major engineering required. Make sure each cable strand can carry 8 amps at 12v (because if you have 6 cars on full throttle on one lane on your far corner - that's how much current could be running through that lane.

At the point where the speeding up starts you could check continuity or simply crimp the joints and refit. Here's how CLICKME.

Do you have a multimeter? If so then take your boards apart (so current can't travel all the way around your circuit) and check continuity between every track piece - the problem joints should soon reveal themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks my ansomes had most of it appart today to do some work on my supporting frame (stiffening it up) need to be able to fold it up to the wall without it bending so I have left it down for a few months, but its taking all my guitar practice space up and I need to practice a little before my band realise I havent been. started to crimp the removeable peices and did mr modifiers corner changer mod so I can run some old analogue cars I have and thanks Ade for the offer off the inox I think I will need to invest in my own bottle if the track needs it. gotta finnish doing the track taps later, after I finnish making the wife a shelf unit in the bedroom. Hope to have it all back together later and I will report on my progress.

once again you guys are a great help

Terance
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well the track is back together and is better than it was now I have crimped the sections as best I can, just ordered some inox mx3 hope to get vast improvement with this wonder lube, my wife smiled when I said I bought lube for slots
hahahahaha she was not so impressed when I told her it was for my scaley.
 
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