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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

Picked up a resin body of a Citroen DS. Fairly certain that I have no idea where to start.


The body looks pretty rough, but I can sand it down with out too much bother*.

Just wondered, what adhesive would I use for the tray & sticking the drivers head to his mis-shapen body?

And..... The windscreen etc are currently part of a 4x3in piece of transparency film. Not sure how to get the curve of the windscreen - and I'm definitely not sure how I'm going to sort out the rear window which has a cornucopia of curves - but I'll worry about later - loads to be dealing first. **



* Possibly

** perhaps, but I'm not sure I can deal with this project at all!
 

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John Roche
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4,237 Posts
For adhesive I use 5 minute epoxy and foor the windows try making paper or card templates and when you get it right use it to draw out your windows.

Good luck, you'll learn as you go and each car you build should be a bit better than the last.



John
 

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Stick with it goldfish it'll turn out just fine
.

Second the epoxy for glueing the parts together and the window template method.

Can you post any pics.

Regards,
MAF.
 

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Alan Tadd
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As above, all great advice.

As for fixing the windows to the bodywork, don't use Superglue or plastic construction kit cement as it will tend to leave unsightly marks, try and get hold of a PVA based glue from your local Model or Hobby shop. Oh....and never give up...

Regards

Alan
 

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Dave,

My first resin was a daunting task as well. It took me a month of messing with it to get it ready for paint. Stick with it though, and I'm sure you'll do fine.
 

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mac pinches
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have a crack at it Goldfish, you will make a few boo boo,s but dont worry, you will see whats needed for the next one and start to gather info and tricks, dont expect the first to be a show stopper, every one started with a few "i aint going to show this to anybody" keep aiming for a better result next time, you do this and it,s suprising how high you can fly. best of luck mac p
 

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Hi

For windows with funny curves, you can try not useing the flat stock that comes with it!

Oh, No...........Grin.

There is an old technique that predates me, and I was using it in 1960! It is called "Heat Streaching". You carve a plug out of balsa that fits the hole and curve. Seal the balsa and then look around for a package that comes with a clear vacuformed cover. This plastic is called "Buterate" in the U.S. and you might find some in your hobby shop. In any case, you mount your molds on a post with base that holds them above your work surface. THEN, you gently warm the plastic you have over a candle until it gets all droopy. THEN you plunge the sheet over your mold, it will make a perfect copy.

Don't worry about mistakes. There are 3 you can make. One, you scorch the plastic with the flame...but since you used the free packaging stuff you were going to throw away anyway.........no loss. You can pull the plastic too quickly and tear it, see above. OR you won't pull it fast enough or it won't be hot enough, and you just repeat!

Prof.Fate
 

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mac pinches
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just as Prof.fate said you will have a bunch of stuff that no good, but then you get THE one and it,s all worth while,a thing poped into my mind along the same lines, at the start of this year, a guy visited me to talk about some wheels for the cars, at the side of the workbench was a supermarket bag, 3/4 full of resin shells, he wanted to take a few but i said no, as they where all scrap. remember you only get to see the good un,s, most people have a Tesco,s bag!!!! mac p
 

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QUOTE (mac p @ 25 Oct 2004, 20:22)remember you only get to see the good un,s, most people have a Tesco,s bag!!!! mac p
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

And I thought all you guys were perfect...

Thanks for being honest about the Tesco bag Mac P... it gives us mortals some hope... At the moment I'm trying to build just one model that DOESN'T end up in the bag!!!!
 

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Goldfish, Don't make this a bigger fuss than it really is. You've gotten some excellent advice already, I would like to add some: before sanding, spray with a sandable primer. You indicated the body is rough, when sanding, this will show where the high and low spots are, while it fills the low spots. Do that a couple of times and that body will be slick. Ettore
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Everyone,

Here are some pictures of the kit - before anything has been touched, I don't know why, but you might be interested!





Since these were taken I have Started to trim off all the excess bits and tidy it up a bit, I was suprised at how rough the cast is! I think a bit more trimming and filing is needed, but I don't think it will be too long before I get to the primer stage.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Actually its not all that bad! Once I started tidying up the rough edges, it went ok. No problems at all.

I think i was just in a state of shock initially - I thought it would be a case of just painting the body of shoving a chassis under it, but not worry, its all okay so far and I'm enjoying the challenge.
 

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Allan Wakefield
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Don't forget to let us know when you begin on the air suspension system those guys had!
 
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