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My New ROC Layout

11459 Views 38 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  GregK
After following the progress of a similar build on here some time back, I had been mulling over whether to build one myself.

I wanted to build the layout so that main start/finish line piece could be easily moved around, so that I could run ROC style and standard racing too.

So, I decided to see what track etc I had lying around to see if it was possible without spending too much money.

I had loads of track and borders, plus a Pro-base. Just needed a few bits. So I decided to see if I could pick them up cheap and have been doing so over the last few months.

All the kit has been sitting there waiting for me to get round to building it. Until now!! I got asked if I could run a Scalextric race night for my other half's tennis club. This has given me the incentive to get off my back side and get on with it.

Last weekend I decided to finally split my c7042 powerbase from it's track. Then I took the track piece from my Pro B and rejigged it to fit the C7042 Pb. So now I have two pieces of track that I can change my C7042 between. One stays on my home layout and the other will be used for the ROC layout.

I wanted to use the C7042 because it meant no phaffing around changing the SSDC software and I know that the software can do everything I need it to with the C7042.

This last week has been spent in B & Q looking at materials I could use for the base board.

I finally decided on 9mm MDF for the board, 3 8X4 ft sheets - turned out a bit expensive but it will be sturdy enough has saved me buying more wood to brace it. The boards were cut into 4x4 ft sheets - so I could get them into the car. The entire layout will be made up of six MDF sections plus a bridge, to be made out of a cardboard box (just had a new work printer delivered)

The sections cannot be bigger that 4 x 3 1/2 ft. This is so that I can transport them in the car, flat.

Today, has been the start of the making of the base.

As this stage I just need to build the base with the minimum of effort specifically for this race night, but mindful of possible later revisions.

Nothing will be fixed or run underneath the base, so that it can sit flat on the tables. The club have loads of tables

I have managed to fit the track onto the track so that the majority of the track joins match up with the join sections of the base.

The base sections are connected together using some basic plastic cabinet blocks screwed to the top of the sections and connected together by a bolt and butterfly nut.

The next stages are to

1) Hot glue the track down into place so that I can then separate the sections making it easier to work on each one separately.

2) Clean all paint and fake grass off the borders taking them back to their original colour. (These borders were used in my previous layouts, but now I am made my own.). If this is not successful, then I will just repaint them with the weathershield black paint I already have.

3) Drill six holes in one side of the board so that the throttles can sit in them. This part of the board will be sitting over the edge of the tables below, so the throttles can hand nicely.

4) Paint the base - Not sure what colour yet - I have some green and some dark blue paint lying around. The green is a really sick green colour, so I might add some black to darken it. The blue might not fit in with the track and border colours. But they are free and it will do for now. Would have liked a vibrant red, but don't have any. to hand. Might ask around, neighbours etc!!

5) Hot glue the cleaned borders to the layout.

6) Whilst laying the borders I will look to run the wiring from the C7042 track piece to the C7042 base hidden under the borders.

7) Build the bridge.

8) Testing

9) Add new "Surechange" Sport guides to the super resistant Scaley Audi TT's. I have ordered 10 guides and have more than six chipped Audi's. So should have plenty of spares for the night.

Yesterday, I had an idea to add a pit lane. I have a Pit Pro already, but also have another spare track piece in the box of bits. However it has no sensor in it. I have contacted RighG and Riko to see if they can supply me with two sensors, which I think they can. (You may have seen my other thread on the sensors)

The other thing I now need is the exit piece for a left handed pit lane. If anyone has one lying around they would like to part with get in touch.

Anyway, that's all from me for now. Below is a pic of the layout earlier today before the boards were cut down to size.

White Black Wood Stairs Flooring


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Quick Update.

This is how I am joining the board sections.

These will be sufficient for now. I might even hide them with some scenery at a later date or if time allows.

Wood Collar Floor Flooring Recreation

This pic is after the boards have been cut down, joined together, and the boarders laid out. The total size is now approx 11ft x 7ft.

Line Art Flooring Waist Font

This has got to be ready for the end of the month!!!


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Well, it's been a week or so since my last update and things have moved on abit.

I managed to obtain a pit lane section and RichG kindle sent me some sensors. I also got hold of some throttle extn leads.

The track borders have been cleaned and hot glued to the boards, and in some areas the track has been secured using hot glue as well.

I have now been able to separate the boards and work on the individual sections, which is much easier.

The power and the PB wires from the S/F track piece have been run under the track borders and pop out where I will be locating the PB. You can see this in the pic below.

Automotive design Flooring Urban design Art Wood

I had to fasten the track on the main straight board, as the borders were not sufficient to hold them. As you can see I have been adding some plasticard borders to separate the track and pit lane. Just need to add some advertising to these.

Wood Audio equipment Naval architecture Engineering Machine

I have dug out the cars I intend to use. Three are already chipped and three need re-chipping. I will probably do a couple more for spares.

Car Automotive parking light Wheel Land vehicle Tire

Still to do are:

1) Install the pit sensors and socket for the sensors.

2) Attach borders for the rear of the pit lane.

3) Build the bridge!!

4) Cut holes for the throttles

5) Paint the boards (green).

6) Create the start line grid.

One thing I am not intending to do at this time, is to wire all the track together. It is a risk but I simply do not have the time. All the track is relatively new, the connections are good and tight and I have already tested on it. Some minor connectivity issues, but they have been resolved.


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You have one sensor track for the C7042 but as I understand it ROC normally runs with one car half way round the track but adjacent so there is visually a single start/finish line.

As the C7042 sensors are only in place for one car - how will you call the result of a close finish?

If you had a second sensor track alongside the original and with the sensors wired in parallel with the existing sensors then you could use SSDC to manage the whole race. True the cars would have to cross the start/finish line twice to complete a single lap but as long as you set the race length to an even number of laps you could use SSDC to manage your results and accurately make the call on tight finishes.
Hi Steve

As mentioned above, to be an accurate ROC event the cars must start in either the two inside or two outside lanes to create the pursuit effect. If the format of your event doesn't require this then I understand.

If I can give you any advice or shortcuts on the build just let me know.
Mr M.

When running a RoC style format I will move the C7042 track piece across one lane.

I need to replace the single lane double length piece I have in there with two single lane pieces - a bit more cutting to do. But I was not intending do this until after the event at the end of the month, unless I have time.

Thanks for the offer Racingsnake.

I have got some jpegs of scaled Abu Dhabi logos for the bridge and authentic barrier banners that print out nicely on to self adhesive A4 paper if you plan to go that far.

That would be very kind of you, thanks.

What make of A4 adhesive paper did you use?

I'll PM you my e-mail address.


I thought an update was required, so here it is.

I tried to get away with only using the MDF boards only, with no bracing around the edges. But, after some thought and the discovery that the current way of keeping the boards together was damaging the board itself, I decided to bite the bullet and put bracing on now.

Now it's done, I'm a lot happier.

I can run now things beneath, like power taps and throttle cables etc.

It has not added any significant weight to the boards.

The bridge is built, power taps are in, pit sensors wired (but not tested yet).

Some advertising has been printed and some has actually been attached, more as a test than anything else.

I did a quick test and other than a few continuity problems, which were fixed, all is working. PHEW!!

I have now managed to paint the boards - green. A slight hitch is that doing it in the garage has meant drying has taken longer that expected. So the final coat will have to wait until after this weekend.

Wood Sportswear Flooring Sleeve Jewellery

Tomorrow is my day off and I will be getting stuck in to finish this off.


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It all works - and first time!

Today was the first full testing. Pit Pro, SSDC etc all fired up and worked without a problem.

Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Motor vehicle

The paint on the boards has finally dried, so I will not be adding any more coats until after this weekend.

Now got to drill the holes for the throttles and pit pro, tidy some of my paint work, whilst also making any final adjustments. Then it's the barriers, advertising and checking the cars.

Green Flooring Road surface Floor Wood

For this fund raising night I'm intending to run two types of races:

1) The Fastest Lap - £1 for 10 laps to set the fastest lap. There is going to be an element of luck here, because I intend to have multiple racers trying to set their fastest time on the track a the same time. It is a fund raiser for the club after all!!!

2) Endurance Races - £1 per race. Just sign up and have a race. Between 4 to 6 in a race. Free practice for 2 minutes then a 3 minute race. No refueling, but I might have penalties to stop bad racing and that might also help save the cars!! Racing will be continuous (No Track Calls) unless there is a massive pile up. There will be a juniors class and an Adult class. All racers will race together, but the best six juniors and six best adults will go into the their respective finals. In the event of a lot of racers clocking up the same number of laps, the decider will be their fastest lap during the nights racing.

I need it to be as flexible as possible, because I do not know how many people are going to turn up.

Hopefully, if this night goes well and the word gets round then we can hold a more structured race night, like the way an indoor karting night is run.

So this night is a real suck and see!!!


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That looks terrific Steve.

Definitely worth having Penalties for deliberate shunting, I find two verbal warnings to back off followed by a momentary lift off the track if they offend again soon calms all the drivers down.

In a similar vein after the early races I pointed out how much total race time is lost through crashes e.g. 6 sec competitive lap x 20 laps should be 2 mins total when they were recording 2m 40 secs.
Well........glad that's over!!

The night went really well.

I had my missus and stepson helping with the marshaling.

When the kids came in they went mental............and just kept going mental................for over two hours!! By kids I mean both small kids and big kids!!!

I quickly changed the format to 5 minute endurance races with no track calls and dumped the fastest lap format. We included the fastest lap of the night within the races.

We were all totally knackered at the end.

The track held up well, although I have a few alterations to make, mainly to keep the kids back from the track.

I had a few inquiries to do other ones, but I'll let myself get over this one first!!!

All in all a good night - £250 was raised overall on the night, including food and bar, but that would not have been reached if it wasn't for the racing.
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Well done, Steve! You and the missus deserve some rest now.

How many people did you serve? It ounds like it was a real boiling pot!
Congratulations Steve, a significant chunk of money for a good cause.

I've done something similar for the village fete for the past few years. Like you I dumped the fastest lap format and went for 2 min endurance races, winner with the most laps which encourages more racing and less crashing. As fast as I could reset the start grid the kids were handing over their pound coins to go again.
It is surprisingly tiring doing a semi-public event.

Were there any automotive casualties?
Well, yes and no!!

One car decided to pack up, so I swapped it with a spare.

When I got round to seeing what the problem a few days later, it was working fine!!

Anyone else had that?

My thoughts are that it could have been the braids getting splaid out and after a lot of fumblings to get the car back on the track, causing it to get confused and deciding it didn't want to play anymore that night!
After a lot of use, sometimes a chip will get hot enough to quit without being damaged, especially if the cars are magnet cars. I've had that happen a couple times when I do school bashes/fetes. Once the chip cools down, it's fine. I always have spare cars and chips on hand. It could also have been a few too many zaps, like you said.
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