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My New ROC Layout

11442 Views 38 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  GregK
After following the progress of a similar build on here some time back, I had been mulling over whether to build one myself.

I wanted to build the layout so that main start/finish line piece could be easily moved around, so that I could run ROC style and standard racing too.

So, I decided to see what track etc I had lying around to see if it was possible without spending too much money.

I had loads of track and borders, plus a Pro-base. Just needed a few bits. So I decided to see if I could pick them up cheap and have been doing so over the last few months.

All the kit has been sitting there waiting for me to get round to building it. Until now!! I got asked if I could run a Scalextric race night for my other half's tennis club. This has given me the incentive to get off my back side and get on with it.

Last weekend I decided to finally split my c7042 powerbase from it's track. Then I took the track piece from my Pro B and rejigged it to fit the C7042 Pb. So now I have two pieces of track that I can change my C7042 between. One stays on my home layout and the other will be used for the ROC layout.

I wanted to use the C7042 because it meant no phaffing around changing the SSDC software and I know that the software can do everything I need it to with the C7042.

This last week has been spent in B & Q looking at materials I could use for the base board.

I finally decided on 9mm MDF for the board, 3 8X4 ft sheets - turned out a bit expensive but it will be sturdy enough has saved me buying more wood to brace it. The boards were cut into 4x4 ft sheets - so I could get them into the car. The entire layout will be made up of six MDF sections plus a bridge, to be made out of a cardboard box (just had a new work printer delivered)

The sections cannot be bigger that 4 x 3 1/2 ft. This is so that I can transport them in the car, flat.

Today, has been the start of the making of the base.

As this stage I just need to build the base with the minimum of effort specifically for this race night, but mindful of possible later revisions.

Nothing will be fixed or run underneath the base, so that it can sit flat on the tables. The club have loads of tables

I have managed to fit the track onto the track so that the majority of the track joins match up with the join sections of the base.

The base sections are connected together using some basic plastic cabinet blocks screwed to the top of the sections and connected together by a bolt and butterfly nut.

The next stages are to

1) Hot glue the track down into place so that I can then separate the sections making it easier to work on each one separately.

2) Clean all paint and fake grass off the borders taking them back to their original colour. (These borders were used in my previous layouts, but now I am made my own.). If this is not successful, then I will just repaint them with the weathershield black paint I already have.

3) Drill six holes in one side of the board so that the throttles can sit in them. This part of the board will be sitting over the edge of the tables below, so the throttles can hand nicely.

4) Paint the base - Not sure what colour yet - I have some green and some dark blue paint lying around. The green is a really sick green colour, so I might add some black to darken it. The blue might not fit in with the track and border colours. But they are free and it will do for now. Would have liked a vibrant red, but don't have any. to hand. Might ask around, neighbours etc!!

5) Hot glue the cleaned borders to the layout.

6) Whilst laying the borders I will look to run the wiring from the C7042 track piece to the C7042 base hidden under the borders.

7) Build the bridge.

8) Testing

9) Add new "Surechange" Sport guides to the super resistant Scaley Audi TT's. I have ordered 10 guides and have more than six chipped Audi's. So should have plenty of spares for the night.

Yesterday, I had an idea to add a pit lane. I have a Pit Pro already, but also have another spare track piece in the box of bits. However it has no sensor in it. I have contacted RighG and Riko to see if they can supply me with two sensors, which I think they can. (You may have seen my other thread on the sensors)

The other thing I now need is the exit piece for a left handed pit lane. If anyone has one lying around they would like to part with get in touch.

Anyway, that's all from me for now. Below is a pic of the layout earlier today before the boards were cut down to size.

White Black Wood Stairs Flooring


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After a lot of use, sometimes a chip will get hot enough to quit without being damaged, especially if the cars are magnet cars. I've had that happen a couple times when I do school bashes/fetes. Once the chip cools down, it's fine. I always have spare cars and chips on hand. It could also have been a few too many zaps, like you said.
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